Stroker kit 2.3 or 2.4?
Stroker kit 2.3 or 2.4?
I noticed that majority of the engine built comes with 2.3 vs 2.4? Does 2.4 built have reliability issues? I am inclined to built a 2.4? More displacement=more torque and power potential? Any input from professional engine builder?
Thanks
Thanks
+1 iam interested too know, also, i know a basic ams stroker kit is like 2k, how much does it cost to get the motor built with the stroker kit, money for r&i of the motor, and stuff
intresting. are the AMS and Buschur cranks forged or just 4G64 cranks???? only ask cos i know of a couple of UK companies that are having their cranks forged now. think crower are doing them.
Chris.
Chris.
i believe people go with a 2.3 for the following reason's in order:
1. they already have a block, no need to locate 2.4 block
2. the block has oil squirters, 2.4 you need to machine for squirters if wanted
3. no need for special water pump plate
4. no searching for different timing belt
5. people know the history of their motor...usually a good thing.
6. the main bearing girdle is beefier in the evo block vs. 4g64
1. they already have a block, no need to locate 2.4 block
2. the block has oil squirters, 2.4 you need to machine for squirters if wanted
3. no need for special water pump plate
4. no searching for different timing belt
5. people know the history of their motor...usually a good thing.
6. the main bearing girdle is beefier in the evo block vs. 4g64
Just so things are clear for people who are new to the 4G63 and 4G64 platforms, here is a quick guide to the different type of setups. In the Evo, you can use two different type of blocks, which bolt directly in, the 4G63 (which it comes with from the factory) or the 4G64.
4G63 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows 2.0 Liters of displacement)
-4g64 crankshaft (allows for 2.3 liters of displacement, this is the most popular "stroker kit" everyone speaks of)
4G64 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows for 2.4 liters of displacement)
-4G63 crankshaft (allows for 2.1 liters of displacement, this is known as the "destroker" setup)
Keep in mind that nowadays, you can get a forged crankshaft 4g63 or 4g64 crankshaft, which is definitely recommended if you plan on running big power.
Yeah I agree, the 4G64 block is a hassle to find, and it is a hassle to find parts for. There are many small difference between the 4G64 and 4G63. There are certain things you may need, and should take note of:
-need Water pump plate
-need 4G64 timing belt
-need 4g64 cam gears
-Oil squirters installed (optional)
-The dipstick is located in the front of the block (may interfere with manifold location)
-Generally speaking, the 4G64 is weaker than the 4G63 (the bores are larger and there is less metal in between cylinders, which implies the overall rigidity of the block is lower than the 4G63).
I plan on running one in the near future (I see them for sale at my local junkyard for $100 a pop) but its going to cost probably 3-4 thousand for parts. There are two different modes of function for 4G64 setup:
2.4 Liters (uses regular 4G64 crank)
Using this setup you will be able achieve the best power/torque curve possible for the Evolution 7 8 or 9. This type of setup has an obvious displacement advantage allowing for faster turbo spoolup (great if your running a large turbo) however the rod length to stroke ratio is still worse then in a regular 4G63, which limits some of the high RPM capability.
2.1 Liters (destroked using 4G63 crank)
This setup is very interesting. Using this combination allows for an optimum rod length to stroke ratio, which creates much less side loading on the cylinder walls. People who use this setup typically have one thing in mind, mind blowing RPM capability. This setup is very favorable for road racing or Autocross, where high rpm's are necessary for the best lap times.
4G63 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows 2.0 Liters of displacement)
-4g64 crankshaft (allows for 2.3 liters of displacement, this is the most popular "stroker kit" everyone speaks of)
4G64 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows for 2.4 liters of displacement)
-4G63 crankshaft (allows for 2.1 liters of displacement, this is known as the "destroker" setup)
Keep in mind that nowadays, you can get a forged crankshaft 4g63 or 4g64 crankshaft, which is definitely recommended if you plan on running big power.
Yeah I agree, the 4G64 block is a hassle to find, and it is a hassle to find parts for. There are many small difference between the 4G64 and 4G63. There are certain things you may need, and should take note of:
-need Water pump plate
-need 4G64 timing belt
-need 4g64 cam gears
-Oil squirters installed (optional)
-The dipstick is located in the front of the block (may interfere with manifold location)
-Generally speaking, the 4G64 is weaker than the 4G63 (the bores are larger and there is less metal in between cylinders, which implies the overall rigidity of the block is lower than the 4G63).
I plan on running one in the near future (I see them for sale at my local junkyard for $100 a pop) but its going to cost probably 3-4 thousand for parts. There are two different modes of function for 4G64 setup:
2.4 Liters (uses regular 4G64 crank)
Using this setup you will be able achieve the best power/torque curve possible for the Evolution 7 8 or 9. This type of setup has an obvious displacement advantage allowing for faster turbo spoolup (great if your running a large turbo) however the rod length to stroke ratio is still worse then in a regular 4G63, which limits some of the high RPM capability.
2.1 Liters (destroked using 4G63 crank)
This setup is very interesting. Using this combination allows for an optimum rod length to stroke ratio, which creates much less side loading on the cylinder walls. People who use this setup typically have one thing in mind, mind blowing RPM capability. This setup is very favorable for road racing or Autocross, where high rpm's are necessary for the best lap times.
Last edited by sonicnofadz; May 11, 2007 at 11:18 AM.
Just so things are clear for people who are new to the 4G63 and 4G64 platforms, here is a quick guide to the different type of setups. In the Evo, you can use two different type of blocks, which bolt directly in, the 4G63 (which it comes with from the factory) or the 4G64.
4G63 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows 2.0 Liters of displacement)
-4g64 crankshaft (allows for 2.3 liters of displacement, this is the most popular "stroker kit" everyone speaks of)
4G64 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows for 2.4 liters of displacement)
-4G63 crankshaft (allows for 2.1 liters of displacement, this is known as the "destroker" setup)
Keep in mind that nowadays, you can get a forged crankshaft 4g63 or 4g64 crankshaft, which is definitely recommended if you plan on running big power.
Yeah I agree, the 4G64 block is a hassle to find, and it is a hassle to find parts for. There are many small difference between the 4G64 and 4G63. There are certain things you may need, and should take note of:
-need Water pump plate
-need 4G64 timing belt
-need 4g64 cam gears
-Oil squirters installed (optional)
-The dipstick is located in the front of the block (may interfere with manifold location)
-Generally speaking, the 4G64 is weaker than the 4G63 (the bores are larger and there is less metal in between cylinders, which implies the overall rigidity of the block is lower than the 4G63).
4G63 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows 2.0 Liters of displacement)
-4g64 crankshaft (allows for 2.3 liters of displacement, this is the most popular "stroker kit" everyone speaks of)
4G64 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows for 2.4 liters of displacement)
-4G63 crankshaft (allows for 2.1 liters of displacement, this is known as the "destroker" setup)
Keep in mind that nowadays, you can get a forged crankshaft 4g63 or 4g64 crankshaft, which is definitely recommended if you plan on running big power.
Yeah I agree, the 4G64 block is a hassle to find, and it is a hassle to find parts for. There are many small difference between the 4G64 and 4G63. There are certain things you may need, and should take note of:
-need Water pump plate
-need 4G64 timing belt
-need 4g64 cam gears
-Oil squirters installed (optional)
-The dipstick is located in the front of the block (may interfere with manifold location)
-Generally speaking, the 4G64 is weaker than the 4G63 (the bores are larger and there is less metal in between cylinders, which implies the overall rigidity of the block is lower than the 4G63).
--Josh
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Just so things are clear for people who are new to the 4G63 and 4G64 platforms, here is a quick guide to the different type of setups. In the Evo, you can use two different type of blocks, which bolt directly in, the 4G63 (which it comes with from the factory) or the 4G64.
4G63 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows 2.0 Liters of displacement)
-4g64 crankshaft (allows for 2.3 liters of displacement, this is the most popular "stroker kit" everyone speaks of)
4G64 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows for 2.4 liters of displacement)
-4G63 crankshaft (allows for 2.1 liters of displacement, this is known as the "destroker" setup)
Keep in mind that nowadays, you can get a forged crankshaft 4g63 or 4g64 crankshaft, which is definitely recommended if you plan on running big power.
Yeah I agree, the 4G64 block is a hassle to find, and it is a hassle to find parts for. There are many small difference between the 4G64 and 4G63. There are certain things you may need, and should take note of:
-need Water pump plate
-need 4G64 timing belt
-need 4g64 cam gears
-Oil squirters installed (optional)
-The dipstick is located in the front of the block (may interfere with manifold location)
-Generally speaking, the 4G64 is weaker than the 4G63 (the bores are larger and there is less metal in between cylinders, which implies the overall rigidity of the block is lower than the 4G63).
I plan on running one in the near future (I see them for sale at my local junkyard for $100 a pop) but its going to cost probably 3-4 thousand for parts. There are two different modes of function for 4G64 setup:
2.4 Liters (uses regular 4G64 crank)
Using this setup you will be able achieve the best power/torque curve possible for the Evolution 7 8 or 9. This type of setup has an obvious displacement advantage allowing for faster turbo spoolup (great if your running a large turbo) however the rod length to stroke ratio is still worse then in a regular 4G63, which limits some of the high RPM capability.
2.1 Liters (destroked using 4G63 crank)
This setup is very interesting. Using this combination allows for an optimum rod length to stroke ratio, which creates much less side loading on the cylinder walls. People who use this setup typically have one thing in mind, mind blowing RPM capability. This setup is very favorable for road racing or Autocross, where high rpm's are necessary for the best lap times.
4G63 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows 2.0 Liters of displacement)
-4g64 crankshaft (allows for 2.3 liters of displacement, this is the most popular "stroker kit" everyone speaks of)
4G64 block can use:
-factory crankshaft (allows for 2.4 liters of displacement)
-4G63 crankshaft (allows for 2.1 liters of displacement, this is known as the "destroker" setup)
Keep in mind that nowadays, you can get a forged crankshaft 4g63 or 4g64 crankshaft, which is definitely recommended if you plan on running big power.
Yeah I agree, the 4G64 block is a hassle to find, and it is a hassle to find parts for. There are many small difference between the 4G64 and 4G63. There are certain things you may need, and should take note of:
-need Water pump plate
-need 4G64 timing belt
-need 4g64 cam gears
-Oil squirters installed (optional)
-The dipstick is located in the front of the block (may interfere with manifold location)
-Generally speaking, the 4G64 is weaker than the 4G63 (the bores are larger and there is less metal in between cylinders, which implies the overall rigidity of the block is lower than the 4G63).
I plan on running one in the near future (I see them for sale at my local junkyard for $100 a pop) but its going to cost probably 3-4 thousand for parts. There are two different modes of function for 4G64 setup:
2.4 Liters (uses regular 4G64 crank)
Using this setup you will be able achieve the best power/torque curve possible for the Evolution 7 8 or 9. This type of setup has an obvious displacement advantage allowing for faster turbo spoolup (great if your running a large turbo) however the rod length to stroke ratio is still worse then in a regular 4G63, which limits some of the high RPM capability.
2.1 Liters (destroked using 4G63 crank)
This setup is very interesting. Using this combination allows for an optimum rod length to stroke ratio, which creates much less side loading on the cylinder walls. People who use this setup typically have one thing in mind, mind blowing RPM capability. This setup is very favorable for road racing or Autocross, where high rpm's are necessary for the best lap times.
You do not need 4g64 cam gears... most 4g64's were sohc...
Dip stick is in the back just like the 4g63
4g64 piston can be purchased "off the shelf" from Wiseco and from many other vendors
Same rods as 4g63 can be used
You can use a 4g63 timing belt as long as you have adjustable cam gears to correctly set the TDC
4g64 blocks can be found VERY easily. I got mine for like $200 at a junk yard
so many things wrong ....
You do not need 4g64 cam gears... most 4g64's were sohc...
Dip stick is in the back just like the 4g63
4g64 piston can be purchased "off the shelf" from Wiseco and from many other vendors
Same rods as 4g63 can be used
You can use a 4g63 timing belt as long as you have adjustable cam gears to correctly set the TDC
4g64 blocks can be found VERY easily. I got mine for like $200 at a junk yard
You do not need 4g64 cam gears... most 4g64's were sohc...
Dip stick is in the back just like the 4g63
4g64 piston can be purchased "off the shelf" from Wiseco and from many other vendors
Same rods as 4g63 can be used
You can use a 4g63 timing belt as long as you have adjustable cam gears to correctly set the TDC
4g64 blocks can be found VERY easily. I got mine for like $200 at a junk yard
Last edited by sonicnofadz; May 11, 2007 at 12:15 PM.
so many things wrong ....
You do not need 4g64 cam gears... most 4g64's were sohc...
Dip stick is in the back just like the 4g63
4g64 piston can be purchased "off the shelf" from Wiseco and from many other vendors
Same rods as 4g63 can be used
You can use a 4g63 timing belt as long as you have adjustable cam gears to correctly set the TDC
4g64 blocks can be found VERY easily. I got mine for like $200 at a junk yard
You do not need 4g64 cam gears... most 4g64's were sohc...
Dip stick is in the back just like the 4g63
4g64 piston can be purchased "off the shelf" from Wiseco and from many other vendors
Same rods as 4g63 can be used
You can use a 4g63 timing belt as long as you have adjustable cam gears to correctly set the TDC
4g64 blocks can be found VERY easily. I got mine for like $200 at a junk yard
--Josh


