It Broke!
a.) thats the toughest evo ive ever heard/read/seen 
b.) you couldve run 275 passes in under 10 secs had u replaced the d/t
c.) why stick the money into an evo to get it to 10 secs and not spend the extra to stregthen let along improve the d/t, unless your trying to prove somethin....
d.) this evo with a stock d/t have aftermarket trans fluids ? motor mounts ?
e.) did it do this on the same clutch? cause if your baking off clutches every week, itll all come clear...
i understand what your trying to do and say, your tryin to enlighten us that we can race with stock d/t's and keep our cars in one piece
and all im saying is it's capable (while e/t's suffer) but it's also one bad foot manuever away from calling u and spending thousands more, when people should eliminate the risk spend a couple thousand now, sell their stock parts and upgrade, before a first evo timer takes his brand new car and thrashes it in .4 secs, its cheaper, faster, and more reliable, than playing this indestructable 10 sec stock evo game
when u go around sayin 10secs/stock, it encourages people to gamble.... well i gambled and lost, the gentlemen whos thread this is, gambled and lost, and the countless others on here who are buying t/cases from u and others makin the same 10sec claim.... hrrrmmm somethings getting more clear lol, kinda like saying your an amatuer driver right? got some money ? nah u dont need strength, what u need is more power, now hit the track, but why does it leave a bad taste in their mouth when your on the threads offering to sell thousands more worth the replacements from parts that broke, even after you explain to them what your pro driver is capable of
b.) you couldve run 275 passes in under 10 secs had u replaced the d/t
c.) why stick the money into an evo to get it to 10 secs and not spend the extra to stregthen let along improve the d/t, unless your trying to prove somethin....
d.) this evo with a stock d/t have aftermarket trans fluids ? motor mounts ?
e.) did it do this on the same clutch? cause if your baking off clutches every week, itll all come clear...
i understand what your trying to do and say, your tryin to enlighten us that we can race with stock d/t's and keep our cars in one piece
and all im saying is it's capable (while e/t's suffer) but it's also one bad foot manuever away from calling u and spending thousands more, when people should eliminate the risk spend a couple thousand now, sell their stock parts and upgrade, before a first evo timer takes his brand new car and thrashes it in .4 secs, its cheaper, faster, and more reliable, than playing this indestructable 10 sec stock evo game
when u go around sayin 10secs/stock, it encourages people to gamble.... well i gambled and lost, the gentlemen whos thread this is, gambled and lost, and the countless others on here who are buying t/cases from u and others makin the same 10sec claim.... hrrrmmm somethings getting more clear lol, kinda like saying your an amatuer driver right? got some money ? nah u dont need strength, what u need is more power, now hit the track, but why does it leave a bad taste in their mouth when your on the threads offering to sell thousands more worth the replacements from parts that broke, even after you explain to them what your pro driver is capable of
Our stock clutch lasted 12,000 miles and reached mid 11's. When it was removed, it was sold to an Evo going to the auction and worked perfectly still, holding 400tq.
The ACT XTSS took the car the rest of the way to 10's and was just replaced at 22k to replace it with our semi-sponsored CARBONETICS triple carbon unit.
Driveline upgrades WILL NOT MAKE YOUR CAR QUICKER OR FASTER nor will it turn a 10.9 into a 9.9.
UPGRADING driveline parts that are not broken is an UNRECOVERABLE waste of assets.
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Jersey
Sigh, TTP is correct. The guy was shifting like a newb and broke his car, you don't have to drop and pop your clutch to get good times. Clutch dumps are what new racers use to try and get good times are the track.
If you don't want to break your tranny/diff, slip your clutch a little to take the slack out of the drive line. It'll prevent a lot of the shock that blows crap up. With practice, you can get it good enough not to effect your times... or your transfer case.
Btw, this will burn your clutch up faster... but its a hell of a lot cheaper than the alternative.
Ask Xviper how he does his runs sometime, last I checked he uses the clutch slipping method.
Oh, and I suck at it so I'm not claiming to be the greatest slip clutch racer ever. But, I'm also not getting my TC rebuilt either.
If you don't want to break your tranny/diff, slip your clutch a little to take the slack out of the drive line. It'll prevent a lot of the shock that blows crap up. With practice, you can get it good enough not to effect your times... or your transfer case.
Btw, this will burn your clutch up faster... but its a hell of a lot cheaper than the alternative.
Ask Xviper how he does his runs sometime, last I checked he uses the clutch slipping method.
Oh, and I suck at it so I'm not claiming to be the greatest slip clutch racer ever. But, I'm also not getting my TC rebuilt either.
Spend three hundred in a driving school and not thousands on your driveline.
Our stock clutch lasted 12,000 miles and reached mid 11's. When it was removed, it was sold to an Evo going to the auction and worked perfectly still, holding 400tq.
The ACT XTSS took the car the rest of the way to 10's and was just replaced at 22k to replace it with our semi-sponsored CARBONETICS triple carbon unit.
Driveline upgrades WILL NOT MAKE YOUR CAR QUICKER OR FASTER nor will it turn a 10.9 into a 9.9.
UPGRADING driveline parts that are not broken is an UNRECOVERABLE waste of assets.
Our stock clutch lasted 12,000 miles and reached mid 11's. When it was removed, it was sold to an Evo going to the auction and worked perfectly still, holding 400tq.
The ACT XTSS took the car the rest of the way to 10's and was just replaced at 22k to replace it with our semi-sponsored CARBONETICS triple carbon unit.
Driveline upgrades WILL NOT MAKE YOUR CAR QUICKER OR FASTER nor will it turn a 10.9 into a 9.9.
UPGRADING driveline parts that are not broken is an UNRECOVERABLE waste of assets.
am 2 tired to repeat myself again for ya, S2K who pointed out i was the reason my evo blew up, yip ur right, but ur not listening either.
u say d/t wont better ur 1/4 mile, the evo is geared to get it goin as fast as possible with the power it comes with stock, same with a few other cars... some for economy.... if u think u cant whip up some better gear ratios for a 600hp car, u shouldnt be working for a company as reputable as TTP
"UPGRADING driveline parts that are not broken is an UNRECOVERABLE waste of assets"
your saying this on the thread of someone who is proof otherwise (and just upgraded his d/t), to someone whos had the same exact same problem
edit: s2kguy: i just re-read and u said, once u get good enough.. ill agree with u bro, once u get good enough the time you wouldve lost/gained, isnt enough to risk throwing parts off the car,, dont get cocky tho, u say ur not reaplacing your t/c, your also not making the power any of the cars in this discussion make. (going by your listed mods)
slipping will cost atleast SOME time to be lost tho...
the word slipping should help point ya in the right direction tho....example slipping tires makes you go faster right : P? (yes im aware of the irony that clutch dumps = slipping tires, and could be argued to equal the loss from the clutch slip, toss some slicks on, traction can be handled 2, thats for another thread)
and TTP u dont feel bad for the poor fug who bought that auctioned evo, with a clutch that took 275 clutch slips at 11 secs, and 600 hp? lol this outta tell u somethin yall ^^^^ (silver star vendor!!!) unless that clutch was free (quote "was sold") the labor alone, makes it worth it to just own up to it and at CHEAPEST, to buy an oem exedy and even a new f/w for under 500$, thats cheap, used clutch thats seen that many track runs isnt, thats puttin on a dress and f****** someone (now tell me it didnt see 275 runs, 275 was the number on all those clutches, but still the stock d/t, youll add to my point,)
take it easy yall, im sick of typing so post your responses, but dont expect me to repeat myself again, aka when i dont respond, doesnt mean u were right
Last edited by 1mpak7; Jun 12, 2007 at 04:54 PM. Reason: to dry your tears
[QUOTE]
I don't work for TTP. I own it.
I am not interested in a different gear ratio. Furthermore there is only one option available besides interchanging Evo8 and Evo9 gears.
You have only proven that you cannot follow forum rules by namecalling members and using the grammar of a 6 year old.
No I don't feel bad for the end user of the auction Evo. I buy and sell auction Evo' myself. Refurb them, sell off aftermarket parts, complete many inspections and bring them within federal emmissions guidelines. I have sold them to users on this very forum which have turned around and modified them once again with great success, unlike yourself.
Many cars that come to me for installations have been ragged on and misdriven by unskilled drivers much like you, until they will not even move at all while in gear. The other half do 7000rpm clutch dumps and wonder why parts break.
The clutch was in perfect order with 140 passes at the time I chose to upgrade the clamping force over the stock unit. The client that bought it specifically wanted and knew its history. It just so happened that it was exactly what they were looking for to repair the car with an oem unit with life left on it.
I am done responding. You do not possess the ability to post intelligently with proper grammar and its giving me a headache.
am 2 tired to repeat myself again for ya, the douche who pointed out i was the reason my evo blew up, yip ur right, but ur not listening either.
u say d/t wont better ur 1/4 mile, the evo is geared to get it goin as fast as possible with the power it comes with stock, same with a few other cars... some for economy.... if u think u cant whip up some better gear ratios for a 600hp car, u shouldnt be working for a company as reputable as TTP
u say d/t wont better ur 1/4 mile, the evo is geared to get it goin as fast as possible with the power it comes with stock, same with a few other cars... some for economy.... if u think u cant whip up some better gear ratios for a 600hp car, u shouldnt be working for a company as reputable as TTP
I am not interested in a different gear ratio. Furthermore there is only one option available besides interchanging Evo8 and Evo9 gears.
"UPGRADING driveline parts that are not broken is an UNRECOVERABLE waste of assets"
your saying this on the thread of someone who is proof otherwise (and just upgraded his d/t), to someone whos had the same exact same problem
your saying this on the thread of someone who is proof otherwise (and just upgraded his d/t), to someone whos had the same exact same problem
edit: s2kguy: i just re-read and u said, once u get good enough.. ill agree with u bro, once u get good enough the time you wouldve lost/gained, isnt enough to risk throwing parts off the car,, dont get cocky tho, u say ur not reaplacing your t/c, your also not making the power any of the cars in this discussion make. (going by your listed mods)
slipping will cost atleast SOME time to be lost tho...
the word slipping should help point ya in the right direction tho....example slipping tires makes you go faster right : P? (yes im aware of the irony that clutch dumps = slipping tires, and could be argued to equal the loss from the clutch slip, toss some slicks on, traction can be handled 2, thats for another thread)
slipping will cost atleast SOME time to be lost tho...
the word slipping should help point ya in the right direction tho....example slipping tires makes you go faster right : P? (yes im aware of the irony that clutch dumps = slipping tires, and could be argued to equal the loss from the clutch slip, toss some slicks on, traction can be handled 2, thats for another thread)
and TTP u dont fell bad for the poor fug who bought that auctioned evo, with a clutch that took 275 clutch slips at 11 secs, and 600 hp? lol this outta tell u somethin yall ^^^^ (silver star vendor!!!) unless that clutch was free (quote "was sold") the labor alone, makes it worth it to just own up to it and at CHEAPEST, to buy an oem exedy and even a new f/w for under 500$, thats cheap, used clutch thats seen that many track runs isnt, thats puttin on a dress and f****** someone (now tell me it didnt see 275 runs, 275 was the number on all those clutches, but still the stock d/t, youll add to my point,)
Many cars that come to me for installations have been ragged on and misdriven by unskilled drivers much like you, until they will not even move at all while in gear. The other half do 7000rpm clutch dumps and wonder why parts break.
The clutch was in perfect order with 140 passes at the time I chose to upgrade the clamping force over the stock unit. The client that bought it specifically wanted and knew its history. It just so happened that it was exactly what they were looking for to repair the car with an oem unit with life left on it.
I am done responding. You do not possess the ability to post intelligently with proper grammar and its giving me a headache.
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Jersey
[quote=TTP Engineering;4429136]
I don't work for TTP. I own it.
I am not interested in a different gear ratio. Furthermore there is only one option available besides interchanging Evo8 and Evo9 gears.
You have only proven that you cannot follow forum rules by namecalling members and using the grammar of a 6 year old.
No I don't feel bad for the end user of the auction Evo. I buy and sell auction Evo' myself. Refurb them, sell off aftermarket parts, complete many inspections and bring them within federal emmissions guidelines. I have sold them to users on this very forum which have turned around and modified them once again with great success, unlike yourself.
Many cars that come to me for installations have been ragged on and misdriven by unskilled drivers much like you, until they will not even move at all while in gear. The other half do 7000rpm clutch dumps and wonder why parts break.
The clutch was in perfect order with 140 passes at the time I chose to upgrade the clamping force over the stock unit. The client that bought it specifically wanted and knew its history. It just so happened that it was exactly what they were looking for to repair the car with an oem unit with life left on it.
I am done responding. You do not possess the ability to post intelligently with proper grammar and its giving me a headache.
I think you just became my new favorite vendor... 
Anyway, now is a better time to work on shifting and launch... before I'm running 400+whp and screw something up through ignorance. I never understood why people mod a car up 500whp when they don't even know how to drive one with 300.
I'll get to where I want it eventually, but I'm in no hurry. My S2k was supercharged, 4.57's, with a few other little goodies. My Evo still couldn't catch that thing on its best day.
I don't work for TTP. I own it.
I am not interested in a different gear ratio. Furthermore there is only one option available besides interchanging Evo8 and Evo9 gears.
You have only proven that you cannot follow forum rules by namecalling members and using the grammar of a 6 year old.
No I don't feel bad for the end user of the auction Evo. I buy and sell auction Evo' myself. Refurb them, sell off aftermarket parts, complete many inspections and bring them within federal emmissions guidelines. I have sold them to users on this very forum which have turned around and modified them once again with great success, unlike yourself.
Many cars that come to me for installations have been ragged on and misdriven by unskilled drivers much like you, until they will not even move at all while in gear. The other half do 7000rpm clutch dumps and wonder why parts break.
The clutch was in perfect order with 140 passes at the time I chose to upgrade the clamping force over the stock unit. The client that bought it specifically wanted and knew its history. It just so happened that it was exactly what they were looking for to repair the car with an oem unit with life left on it.
I am done responding. You do not possess the ability to post intelligently with proper grammar and its giving me a headache.
Anyway, now is a better time to work on shifting and launch... before I'm running 400+whp and screw something up through ignorance. I never understood why people mod a car up 500whp when they don't even know how to drive one with 300.
I'll get to where I want it eventually, but I'm in no hurry. My S2k was supercharged, 4.57's, with a few other little goodies. My Evo still couldn't catch that thing on its best day.
Last edited by s2kguy; Jun 12, 2007 at 03:44 PM.
of course you took out my last post to make TTP look better than they shoudlve.... im not mad im magnanimous in victory, best of luck with the car bro, off topic? c.j. i thought a discussion about how/why/and how to prevent what happend was pretty much spot on, guess not,
My brother finally got his trans back from shep and bought a new t-case from him too (t-case was broken into 3 pieces). $4400!!!! Labor not included. That 2-step launch and 1.6 60fts will no longer be in his future. But I bet he will still try to pull off a clean run at the track soon.
And now for some real ironic sh$t, I end up breaking the rear end on my GTO at the track too. Must run in the family.
And now for some real ironic sh$t, I end up breaking the rear end on my GTO at the track too. Must run in the family.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Scotland
You shouldnt really have a problem with a Transferbox running that sort of power
I don't think I was dillusional last night. The fluid was blueish green and it was thick like oil and not watery like coolant. Yeah I guess we have to have a looksy to find out what it is.
Do T-cases usually crack? Like the housing? I imagine if the housing is cracked we would require a new T-case.
Do T-cases usually crack? Like the housing? I imagine if the housing is cracked we would require a new T-case.
Good for you, you're lucky.
If you dump the clutch at high rev's and hook up right away you will blow the T-Case. I have seen it happen about 10 times at the track. If you quick slip the clutch to take the slack out of the driveline, you should be ok. I figured this was common knowledge.