I am wondering what exactly is changed for the motor to be considered built? I know the rods and pistons are changed to forged, and there is probably some port work done but what else is done? If I were to throw a set of rods and pistons in would I be considered built and be able to rev to say 9K or would other things be needed. Thanks

 

A motor consists of 2 parts, the block and the head. The head needs to be built with better valve springs and retainers in order to rev very high. The block can use forged pistons and rods to withstand more power, along with stronger hardware like the rod bolts and main studs.

Also, I dont know what youre plans are, but revving to 9k is for very large turbs (GT35R and up) and really only needed for serious drag racing.

 

I am planning on a 35R build and was considering a built 2.0 or a possible rod and piston swap.

 

Ok great choice! I am of course assuming you will be utilizing the 35R to its potential and running it with around 28-33psi of boost. With that said, while many do run that on the stock block with 35Rs, only time will tell how long the block will last. Forged pistons/rods is not a great idea. You should also do ARP rod bolts as well. If you want to rev high not only will you need a built valvetrain (springs, retainers, etc.) you should have sp,e high lift cams to really make it worth it (JUN 272s for example).

 

Thanks man.

 

also call AMS or even better Jackson Machineshop they seem to know what they do

 

I assume that this was a typo. Forged pistons and rods are essential for a high HP build. High quality rod bolts are already included on almost all forged rods, and are comparable quality to the ARPs that are recommended if you're replacing the factory rod bolts with better quality ones and still using the factory rods.

Rod bolts, followed by valve springs, are the two areas of obvious risk in OEM parts if you're planning to go higher HP or higher RPMs.

 

Yup...
The best way to do is call up Buschur Racing or AMS or JAM....

 

I am going to be calling them up, I just wanted a little info before hand.

 

Yes that was a typo!! I cant believe I wrote that, Im fixing it now!

 

Built could be a few upgrades or many.

Typically you would want pistons, rods, headstuds, main studs, rod bolts (which come on many upgrade rods), high quality main and rod bearings, thrust bearings, consider balance shaft removal, should balance the rotating assembly (rods, crank, pistons), stock crank is sufficient to 1000hp in many cases, boring and honing cylinders to the next .020 larger size is normal and you want a good cross hatching of the bores. If doing main studs, you should have the block align bored to insure they don't pull the crank journals out of round.

The head, you may consider stronger valvesprings at minimum, or invest into double springs, Titanium retainers, seats, brass or copper valve guides, standard or oversized black nitrided valves (inconel exhaust valves available in oversize -for high heat resistance), valve seals, camshafts, camgears and metal multi layer headgasket. Many times you want to cut the head for a nice flat surface.

 

I'm also going to say call JAM

 

you'll definitely need an upgraded valvetrain to go 9K.

 

Thanks everyone, I understand now that it is a lot more than just drop in rods and pistons and valve springs.

 

I see no reason to have to order 500+ lb. blocks from around the country. If you have a local machine shop that is good, take your parts to them to have it machined.

If you are mechanically inclined. Assemble it yourself.