The official hyundai 2.4L G4JS (4G64) thread

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Sep 28, 2007 | 01:30 AM
  #16  
really good info, I want to go fast for cheap. so people find some more, I'm probably going to try this.
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Sep 28, 2007 | 06:05 AM
  #17  
Quote: really good info, I want to go fast for cheap. so people find some more, I'm probably going to try this.

im pretty sure every true DSMer does as well. Interesting to see how people are changing there outlook on part resources.
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Sep 28, 2007 | 06:23 AM
  #18  
I'm in the process of doing this now. there has been so much good info posted that things have been easier. I plan to do a write-up on the process. I need to decide on a few items that have different views and good reasoning from both sides:

oil squirters (does meth affect the decision)
what comp ratio
balance shaft removal
water pump adapter source
stock or 1mm over valves

I'll be using a 3076 with a 1.06A/R and all the supporting mods. I would like to provide as much detail and the reasoning for each item for future reference.
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Sep 28, 2007 | 06:20 PM
  #19  
Quote: Does block have oil squirters? The early non turbo blocks did not. I would never build a block without oil squirters but they can be added as well.
Why? If you build the block with forge internals (rods and pistons), then the oil squirters would be useless. Most people just plug those oil squirters when they build the block to gain a little oil pressure.
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Sep 30, 2007 | 03:20 PM
  #20  
the sonata block i have doesnt have oil squirters

before you get the sonata block take a look at the comparison picture i put up with the 4g64 block(on the stand) and the sonata block (on the ground)

a few of the things i noticed but i'm not sure if it makes any difference are the oil pump sprocket is in a different position and the mounting for the auto tensioner is in a different position

also the spacing for the transmisson mounting holes looks off towards the bottom maybe its because of the 2 piece oil pan
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Oct 2, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #21  
Quote: Why? If you build the block with forge internals (rods and pistons), then the oil squirters would be useless. Most people just plug those oil squirters when they build the block to gain a little oil pressure.
If you are building a drag car squirters are not needed. A street car that may race for 20-30 seconds will be better off with squirters. An autocross car that races for minutes definitely needs them. Forged pistons need cooling just as much as cast ones. Cool pistons are happy pistons.

The oil pump sprocket is likely in a different position to compensate for the 6mm taller block? this way the 2.0 and 2.4 can use the same belt?
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Nov 20, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #22  
Being a new owner of a 2001 2.4l Sonata... I'm not looking to sell my head LOL

but could any of you help me kinda backwards rework what you guys are doing with this head swap?

aka better N/A cams, springs, pulleys .. intake, header? .. etc for my poor lil sonata

(I went in for a lancer... had credit issues aka not enough yet!, and needed new wheels... so I came home with the Sonata)

.. seeing this info gives like lil wannabe luxo family ride the possibility for some sleeper status
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Nov 21, 2007 | 08:40 AM
  #23  
Could a Mivec head bolt to the 2.4L block stock to stock?
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Nov 21, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #24  
YOu beat me to it,i was gonna ask the same question.Anyone know about us Mivec guys??Are we outta luck??Justin
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Nov 24, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #25  
BUMP.... still looking for an answer about the EVO9 head bolting up. I would consider this a wonderful winter project for me. Simply bolt on a stock EVO9 head to the 2.4L block. With a Green this may be the ultimate lapping day / autox combo.
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Nov 30, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #26  
Making this thread official...
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Mar 4, 2012 | 05:59 PM
  #27  
I'm bumping this because I have some sonata/kia head specific questions about the valvetrain.

I read that the valvetrain isn't as strong as the stock 4g63's. From you guys that have played with these heads, is this true?

I landed a set of 272's cheap and some OEM springs as well. I plan on using the factory Hyundai retainers (assuming they fit the Evo springs... which i see no reason why they shouldn't).

What about the rockers and lash adjusters?

Sorry to bump an old thread, didn't want to make a new one about old ****.
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Mar 4, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #28  
So let me get this straight... You can use a 01-03 Hyundai Santa Fe or 99-01 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 short block instead of a 4g64 out of a eclipse/galant/sebring/stratus/outlander/ralliart in a Evo?
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Mar 4, 2012 | 08:22 PM
  #29  
Not sure if he completed it. In MY case, I'm swapping the head with my 64 head. My block is already built.

I don't like the block being different. Dipstick in front, who knows about the bottom end pulleys and gears lining up. 4g64 blocks are cheap as **** anyhow.

I love the idea of having another source for heads. Although I'm not sure why everybody seems to think the head is weaker.

I mean, regardless of whether the car is boosted or not, in the factory Hyundai, the car can most certainly rev to at least 7k. Why would it be any weaker when a turbo is hanging off of it. I don't think it matters, but then again, OEM 63 springs are a few bucks, so why test it lol.


I DID read on c3g that one of our members had an issue with the lash adjusters "locking up" and he destroyed some valves bc of it. Not sure what he was revving to though.
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Mar 4, 2012 | 08:23 PM
  #30  
I think the VC's are pretty sexy too
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