2.4 Blocks and measurements
Oh man, I am SO excited to hear that! Finally....
Now, EJ definitely has its advantages and disadvantages, but Im hoping you work it all out and we see a beast soon!
Now, EJ definitely has its advantages and disadvantages, but Im hoping you work it all out and we see a beast soon!
After considering the costs of ordering and trying to sell 5 cranks of custom sizing, plus block clearance machining, will be so far into my "cost prohibitive" category, I wont be realizing the benfits anytime soon.
HOWEVER! Brian Crower's kit with a 2.4 liter block, will in fact, yield just over 2.6 liters. In an effort to be daring and different, I am going to head this route.
Financing is falling a bit short...
I was planning on using a 2006 9 MR for this project...but I am probably going to settle for an 05 GSR, hopefully at least a 9 MR so I can use the MIVEC head and system on the 2.6, hoping I will also be able to stick with the original plan of the twin scroll Full Race GT35R
Off the subject, who knows anything about the "F1 GT35" or HTA as everyone is calling it, compared to the Twin Scroll...
Everywhere I turn its either speculation, opinion or muddled fact.....
I'd like to use the turbonetics F1 units, but Im still jaded by the twinscroll. I havent been around in a month or so, I've been busy working to pay the bills.
Thanks guys....
OH, and how is that Subie project?
HOWEVER! Brian Crower's kit with a 2.4 liter block, will in fact, yield just over 2.6 liters. In an effort to be daring and different, I am going to head this route.
Financing is falling a bit short...
I was planning on using a 2006 9 MR for this project...but I am probably going to settle for an 05 GSR, hopefully at least a 9 MR so I can use the MIVEC head and system on the 2.6, hoping I will also be able to stick with the original plan of the twin scroll Full Race GT35R
Off the subject, who knows anything about the "F1 GT35" or HTA as everyone is calling it, compared to the Twin Scroll...
Everywhere I turn its either speculation, opinion or muddled fact.....
I'd like to use the turbonetics F1 units, but Im still jaded by the twinscroll. I havent been around in a month or so, I've been busy working to pay the bills.
Thanks guys....
OH, and how is that Subie project?
Incidentally, I know there is some extraneous information I just posted, I am still re learning all the current turbo tech....
The HTA 35R seems like a good bet, I have yet to find conclusive results to compare though.
The HTA 35R seems like a good bet, I have yet to find conclusive results to compare though.
I'll be interested to see how that 2.6L 4g64 motor runs...should be quite interesting as it can yield ever so slightly a longer rod than the 2.4 stroke...bascially just makes it identical but .2L bigger.
yeah, head studs and bearings FINALLY came in, my flowbench adapter plate should be done once I get back into town so that I can finish my heads up...the 6-spd is in and waiting to be blown up

I'm hoping to have the motor with the 35R up and running within a month (just the 600whp'ish set up)...from there, I will get the dogbox, fuel, manifolds and 4202R setup done off of the car. Engine dyno's make engine R&D much easier
Meanwhile, Steve's (blackevo110) 2.4L is being buttoned up...when I left him at the shop, he was tossing the head together and the bottom end was buttoned up!!
Hopefully we'll see some numbers out of it in the next week.
Awesome. If you care to share pics....:-)
I know its a top secret project. I started to buy parts and store them, but Im debating on selling them off and waiting for the new GTR
I figure a worked over 2.65 liter, fully refreshed, widebody lancer evo with all the latest tech would be undermatched in a lightly warmed over GTR, but the "NEW" factor of the GTR cant be denied.
I dont know, I have to see how the savings account is standing.
I know its a top secret project. I started to buy parts and store them, but Im debating on selling them off and waiting for the new GTR
I figure a worked over 2.65 liter, fully refreshed, widebody lancer evo with all the latest tech would be undermatched in a lightly warmed over GTR, but the "NEW" factor of the GTR cant be denied.
I dont know, I have to see how the savings account is standing.
I actually have a mild update regarding the motor.
I've been searching and searching for anything to allow me higher displacement with a longer rod, as to allow a bigger stroke with a suitable rod/stroke ratio.
I stumbled upon the HKS "Hi Deck" RB26DETT motor. They took a machined billet, decked the block to match and added that in.
I also found that EIP did the same thing with the R32 VR6 engine by Volkswagen, to lower the compression.
If I could find a machinist to deck the block and build a cylinder block extension, I could theoretically make a huge stroke, long rod, very high displacement 4g64 engine.....
In theory. I will keep my research posted until there is something I can't talk about any longer, i.e., homemade's predicament. hahahah
I've been searching and searching for anything to allow me higher displacement with a longer rod, as to allow a bigger stroke with a suitable rod/stroke ratio.
I stumbled upon the HKS "Hi Deck" RB26DETT motor. They took a machined billet, decked the block to match and added that in.
I also found that EIP did the same thing with the R32 VR6 engine by Volkswagen, to lower the compression.
If I could find a machinist to deck the block and build a cylinder block extension, I could theoretically make a huge stroke, long rod, very high displacement 4g64 engine.....
In theory. I will keep my research posted until there is something I can't talk about any longer, i.e., homemade's predicament. hahahah
keep in mind you might want to keep it under the hood...domestic guys have been doing taller blocks for a long time and in some cases just doing "spacers"...
of course you would need taller head studs
I'm of course screwed in my subie because of the chassis. I can only get an extra 1-2 mm if I massaged the chassis...and then 1-2mm more from the head.
You evo guys have it easy.
I'd of course rather build my own project than buy a companies engineering groups car...i.e GTR
of course you would need taller head studs
I'm of course screwed in my subie because of the chassis. I can only get an extra 1-2 mm if I massaged the chassis...and then 1-2mm more from the head.
You evo guys have it easy.
I'd of course rather build my own project than buy a companies engineering groups car...i.e GTR
After reading a little bit more into HKS, they fill the engine with a heat resistant grout so it becomes a "short burst" engine suitable for short, powerful bursts.
Just the same I have to look at a cross sections, schematic or just several pics of both theRB26 and 4g64 just to ensure the same thing applies...
AS far as I know the cylinder surround is minimal by compariosn and the 4g64 block will take well to the deck spacing. considering that im not going for the highest of high horsepower evos and Im looking to make much more torque and higher HP numbers at lower revs, yet enabling my 'race' ability to still exist...
Now,onto the rod and head stud szing, as well as spacer thickness.
Just the same I have to look at a cross sections, schematic or just several pics of both theRB26 and 4g64 just to ensure the same thing applies...
AS far as I know the cylinder surround is minimal by compariosn and the 4g64 block will take well to the deck spacing. considering that im not going for the highest of high horsepower evos and Im looking to make much more torque and higher HP numbers at lower revs, yet enabling my 'race' ability to still exist...
Now,onto the rod and head stud szing, as well as spacer thickness.
ERL offers a service similar to what you are describing, they call it Superdeck. It's been done to Honda motors for a while. Go here for more info:
http://www.erlperformance.com/index....=115&Itemid=98
I think your pursuit for maximum displacement may be unnecessary. If you are planning on building a race car with as much HP as possible, maybe, but for a street car you should be satisfied with the HP numbers achiveable without reinventing the wheel. When you use a deck plate, you will have to sleeve the block, which can get bit expensive (custom made). If you're serious about this, call Sean@ERL or John@Darton and find out what they can do for you.
http://www.erlperformance.com/index....=115&Itemid=98
I think your pursuit for maximum displacement may be unnecessary. If you are planning on building a race car with as much HP as possible, maybe, but for a street car you should be satisfied with the HP numbers achiveable without reinventing the wheel. When you use a deck plate, you will have to sleeve the block, which can get bit expensive (custom made). If you're serious about this, call Sean@ERL or John@Darton and find out what they can do for you.
one more wrench to toss your direction is what will you use for your timing belt?
I know where to get/do everything else custom
its the reason my current build is staying stock deck height.
I know where to get/do everything else custom

its the reason my current build is staying stock deck height.
After looking at it, Aluminum blocks have sleeves. MAke a custom sleeve longer, add a deck plate,DONE. Iron block....idk, it doesnt seem worth it to go beyond what BC offers at the 2.6


