hmmm interesting theory. i put on the hks ssqv only after i started boosting 30 psi.

It is quite clear the thrust failed first. When a turbine wheel or compressor wheel hits the housing at 100,000 rpm there is a tremendous shaft twisting force. Enough to shear the turbine wheel right off. There are many things that can cause thrust failure.

BOV not venting properly.
compressor surge
high egt, overheated thrust. turbine wheel will be grey color.
oil contamination. detonation induced, small particles from rod bearings dont pass through turbo.

it definatley hit the hotside. you should have seen how badly the inside was

Here is your compressor map:



Running 30+ psi on the stock turbo is just inefficient, at best. If you plot the points on the map, you're only going to be able to hold 30 psi til roughly 5000 RPM anyway, before it starts to fall off quickly to low 20's at redline, depending on mods.


Eric

30 psi on a stock turbo?thats pretty high...whenever u remove any parts of the turbo u should have the shaft balanced

Why would you think 30-31 psi was a good idea? I am trying to see what your thought process is.....The thought of running that much boost is a bad idea....which you have proved a couple of times.

At stock boost levels it spins 150,000 rpm and at 31psi im sure its somewhere around 200,000 rpms. FYI: the 150,000 # was taken from the Evo IX pamphlet from Mitsu......So, ya im not surprised it went.

x2. i remember seeing this in the evo 9 broschure.

i've seen 24 25psi ran safely but never 30psi

I have yet to take apart the turbo to find out what happened. the rebuild kit is taking for ever to get to me
but for the mean time, i have removed the waste gate actuator to prevent the turbo from spooling. its been really interesting driving without boost for the last 2 weeks. the great thing is that i have been getting awesome gas mileage!!!

I know I am digging up and old thread here, but elhalisf - for the two weeks that you had the TME shaft and turbine wheel, how was it? Was spool drastically improved?

slower spool actually.

but i did have a minor exhaust leak between the manifold and hotside, and i obviously did something wrong in the rebuild that might have increased friction in the assembly.

But you can DEFINATLEY feel a difference in weight between the two shafts. it was like woah!

sorry to hear about the reabuilds, after the second time you didnt learn what was wrong...? x3...cmon man

Faisal,

Congrats on your 11.9 pass in Phoenix, that is moving... Without further explanation I would directly recommend you to have your turbo balanced.

With turbos running above 180000rpms your naked eye is simply not enough to Ok the install. I sold my Stealth R/T TT to a friend who did the same thing, purchased the rebuilt kit but only lasted a few days.

I know you from being a very very mechanically inclined guy, I give you all the credit in the world because I know you are the type of guy like me but when it comes to turbo stuff I definately will leave it to the professionals that used professional benches to balance the turbo and calibrate them.

As far as runing them to 31psi, I peaked 30-31psi in a few ocasions on my Evo 9 on race gas but the real test was done on the dynos. There isn't much power left above 28psi to be worth the extra heat and stress.

Take care and by the way, How is that catback that I sold you treating you?

Carlos

you see i originally bought the turbo with bad exhaust blades. worked out great for many many months, until i decided to play around with it and put the TME.

What i learned is that swaping out the compressor/exhaust blades can be done without balancing, but they MUST come from the same turbo assembly. and when they are installed, they must be lined up the same way. This is what i think was the fault with the TME install. i had only installed the exhaust shaft since my compressor blade was in better shape than the one that came with the TME.

And i think the hks bov might have been part of the issue. there was soooo much flutter and surging during spool up.