no i mean 500 shot. Its a ford it needs to be persuaded to go fast.

 

The reason im wanting a 50shot is cause this dude in the LS1 is so damn cocky. Whats would I need to beat a stock LS1 with a 150shot?

 

depends alot on the driver and setup. usually an LS1 will have bolt-ons before going to n2o but you never know.

Worst case you would need a low 11/high 10 second car (auto w/bolt-ons), best case I'd guess a low-mid 12 second car(stick w/horrible driver & no bolt-ons).

 

Wow why do I not qualify cause im 19 and own a Evo 9? Do I gotta wait till im 50 to mod or wdf? This guys ego is so huge his head drags on the ground when he walks around. I really need to know what I need to beat this guy. When we go from a dig he beats me by like half a car a car at most. But im not even power shifting and my launches are kinda weak cause that stock rev limit kinda makes me hesitate. I wanna beat him with his 150shot now what do I need?

 

This guy has like a intake and borla exhaust thats it. He ran a 13.7 without the bottle and a high mid 12 on the bottle. When I went to the track i ran a 13.8 without powershifting and my 60" sucked.

 

All you need is a tune and a touch more boost and you can wax him all day long on pumpgas while he will have to refill his bottle after 5 runs of getting beat by you.

IMO what you should do first though before you add any power is practice, practice, practice. Adding more power now while only running a 13.8 w/ a crappy 60' isn't going to make you faster, it will push you further down the learing curve. You need to be able to use all the power you currently have to its fullest, meaning you should be running a second quicker then your current times, before you add more mods.

 

hahaha....i guess.....i'd like to see a video of that car, and its setup!

 

what was his mph and what was urs?

 

if you could just drive the car you would smoke him.

 

Using No2 will make your car slower.

 

yea its sitting in the garage right now broken again. i think the car likes leaving the track on a trailer

 

Are you serious?! Forget the nitrous. Finish doing basic bolt on's, get a good tune and then wax him. My buddy's 80k mile Evo 8 with full bolt on's (factory injectors, FMIC & piping) and GSC 272's can run a 12.5 easy.

What I would recomend doing is: manifold, 10.5 hotside (if you dont already have it) Turbo back exhause w/cat delete (if your stated doesnt have emission testing) MBC @23 psi, 272 style cams, 680 injectors, intercooler piping w/ bigger intercooler, and with tune. Throw in some race gas after all of that and have fun.

After that, wave bye-bye to your friends LS1.

 

You dont think maybe the 500 shot had something to do with this.....hahaha

 

Since i got my bottle i have ran over 15 times on it. I use a wet 50 shot. It was on a untuned evo with basic mods. I havent had any problems with my car. A 50 will give you alot of power but i recomend getting basic mods first and getting tuned.

 

This thread feels like a ****ty AOL chatroom full of 14 year old girls, but I'll add my 2 cents.

I ran a wet nitrous setup on the EVO with pretty good success. I started with a 30 shot (added 30 whp), went up to a 50 shot (added 50 whp), and then eventually a 70 shot. The 70 is when the car finally woke up and seemed to get some of the additional gains people claim turbo cars will get over the rated "shot." I didn't dyno it on the 70 unfortunately, but the car picked up ~9 mph suggesting a ~90 whp gain, and dropped 5 tenths.

At 30 and 50 hp, the car took all the timing I ran without nitrous and liked it. On the 70 I started 2 degrees down, and didn't spend much time trying to add it back in to see if it needed it. Nitrous increases burn speed requiring less timing, but the tuning process is still the same. Keep adding timing until you reach the point of diminishing return. On all three jets I ran a typical race gas AFR of about 12:1.

I went through a lot of nitrous last season, and despite a few unrelated mishaps, I had no problems at all. I'm still on the original motor with 52k miles, and it has great compression. In both cases high bottle pressure caused a lean condition. I'm convinced that the BR8ES non-projected plugs saved my ***. Both runs were full quarter mile passes at 13.5:1 at 20 degree of timing. On one run, DSMlink also stepped in when it saw some knock. I had it set to kill the nitrous at 2 degrees of timing retard or more.

Spraying in third and fourth gear provided the full MPH benefit. Spraying in lower gears didn't seem to increase mph appreciably, but had a dramatic effect on ETs, as one would expect. I ultimately started spraying in first gear at about 25-30 mph for the full length of the track.

DSMlink had some pretty good "windows" and limits built in. As I set it up, it needed to see throttle over 80%, speed over 25-30, RPM over 5500 but under 8000, and knock under 2 degrees retard. Makes nitrous a breeze to setup. AEM works similarly, but doesn't have the knock feature, which I think is absolutely badass.

So for cliff notes, run a colder non-projected plug, and do whatever you can to keep a steady and predictable bottle pressure.