I can't write a lot about this because i'm assuming that everyone knows what i'm talking about. i dont' know, what the fu_k. why would mitsubishi make a car that is basically made to be beat on and driven hard with a clutch that is made from pure vagina

anyway, it's not like doesn't know how to make a good clutch based on their rally history and the history of the EVO's.

i just think that this whole situation sucks that we EVO owners have to spend over a grand for a new clutch just to be able to drive the car like it should be driven.

 

It's not the disk per se.. It's the pressure plate that blows... That's where all the majic is !!

 

regardless of what it is, numerous clutches are being fried within the first 10 thousand miles and that sucks

 

Maybe it's not the clutch.

My two friends and family members with 300+ whp Evos have had no problems. Plus others I know have had no problems, but I also know how they drive...

 

yea, we choose to destroy the clutch....

-shahul

 

Agreed, It's the drivers! Too much slip on launches and shifts and no heal and toe down shifts = roasted clutch. It's easy to blame equipment but the problem lies somewhere else...

 

Oh yeah, its all operator error, yep yep, thats it, everyone with a smoked clutch just sucks at shifting.

Heh... bite me. I prefer to think that if you have not blown your clutch yet then you are driving with too limp a wrist. Turnaround is a b*tch, aint it?

Its an underengineered fail point built in by Mitsu, likely to avoid damage to the rest of the drivetrain.

 

what about you guys with the spring removed from that slave cylinder. What lifespan are you seeing with those clutches with removed spring?

 

dunno if its the US spec evo8 clutches or just the driver... race shifting isnt as easy as my girlfriend but with experience with past evo's from 1-6 in australia all were recognised for having the best clutches, hell thats why they launch so damn hard stock.

 

Roasting the clutch without heal and toing?? I heel and toe & double clutch down-shifts out of habit, but how would not doing so 'roast' the clutch?

Actually I haven't had many issues with the clutch, even though to me it does seem the VIII is a bit tougher to get off the line quickly than the VI RS-2 - but maybe it's the added weight and loss of power - and then trying to combat it with more revs???

I've had more headaches with some quick 1-2 shifts near/at red-line and am still looking for a reasonable explanation of why it is different than in the VI - and yes, I do press the clutch to the floor (most people hate my seating position and immediately push the seat back, but I don't want to have to extend my foot to ensure it's down). Additional synchro? Clutch? What is different???

BTW, If someone else is thinking of suggesting (as on another thread) double clutching for up-shifts, please don't - the last time I did so and didn't mind doing so was in a 1928 Packard with an unsynchronized gearbox, but that is a slightly different style of driving...

Andi

 

Actually it is a properly engineered failure point. The clutch was made "week" to protect the rest of the drive train. Plus, clutches are not covered under warranty so that works out well for Mitsu on two accounts.

Not saying I think this is the correct way to go about it and I agree that they could have made it hold better without risking drivetrain failure.

Some are crappnig out early from over slippage, in which case removeing the clutch slave cylinder restrictor may be a good idea. Others are crapping out from high rpm clutchdrops, in which case real skinny tires with a treadwear rating around 400 or 500 should help

 

But aren't the gearboxes bulletproof? I'm not saying they are indestructible or anything, but they can handle much abuse and power, moreso than the WRX. We should've at least got a beefier clutch this time.

 

It's all cumulative, admitted 90% comes from excessive slip on launches. It only take a couple of bad launches in a row to kill it. But slipping it on down shifts (no blip) and up shifts (slow release) defiantly contribute to premature wear

 

Bwahahahaha!!!!!

Or rerouting the IC spray nozzels to the rear wheel wells and filling with anti-freeze!

Bwahahahaha!!!!!

 

I think the stock clutch is ok. Of course it isn't going to be as good as some aftermarket clutches..most stock clutches aren't. Everyone would be complaing of broken drivetrain parts if the clutches worked as well as some of the aftermarket units. Then blaiming the drivetrain as being too weak. You have to have a little point of give somewhere. Also, I think some people are seeing premature wear because of improperly broken in clutches. Normally clutch manufaturers will recommend low rpm operation and no high rpm launches for the first 300 or so miles. Think of the clutch disc similar to brake pads....they need to seat and broke in properly to avoid hazing of the surface and premature wear and un-normal slippage