Hi I've just bought a Apex Silver 2003 Lancer Evolution VIII (Evo 8) with 58,000 miles.

It has the following mods:

- Xede with custom tune by Shiv, supposedly over 280 awhp
- Boost restrictor pill removed
- Full 3" turboback:
RMR downpipe
Custom 3' Vibrant cat
AMS catback
- Turbo timer
- Rotara slotted rotors
- Stainless braided brake lines
- Ferodo ds2500 pads
- Braided steel clutch line
- Aluminum shifter bushing- K&N air panel filter, cleaned last oil change
- Fast bleeder oil plug.
- New OEM NGK Iridium spark plugs
- ContiXtreme performance all-season tires on stock wheels
- Autometer lighted boost gauge
- Shorty antenna
- JDM tail lights
- Tint
- Wing delete but original lid w/ holes (looking for an Apex Silver Evo VIII wing PM me!)
- Viper Alarm

The car will be my daily driver but I'm curious to hear peoples adivice what would be best to mod next should I crave more power. I want a reliable setup thats streetable/ reliable enough for a daily driver but would also be awesome on a track. I live in Chicago and I was thinking of dropping buy and seeing those nice people at AMS.

Here are my current thoughts : The car is at 58,000 and I'm sure is due a cambelt change. So I was thinking about slipping in a cam kit while the belts and water pump are being done.

So here is the dillema.... do I get cams and and retune now that's suitable for the current set up or wait and buy cams later on. I don't know what I really want yet but I like the sounds of a 2.3 stroker with a 35R kit but is there any staged engine mods I can do before that leap which I could feel the benefit of before such a big change. I was thinking of running more boost, AMS intercooler, uprated head bolts, fuel pump and injectors.... I've read that cold air induction and blow off valves are a waste of time. What else can I do / would you recommend before I go stroker with a turbo kit.

Is Exede engine management any good? I know nothing about it.

All opinions and flaming welcomed I'm a newbie and every post is a step further on the learning curve.

Thanks in advance,

Karl

 

Well, you already have a TBE. I'd suggest an intake with cone filter, LICP, o2 housing, Walbro 255LPH, EVO IX BOV (You'll need this to run more boost. You can also go with Forge, or APS BOV's which are the best aftermarket BOV's), Manual Boost Control (Get a Hallman, 22-23psi) and an ECUFlash. I wouldn't go cams or intercooler just yet. You can, but I'd say you feel some good gains out of those mods. The intercooler especially isn't NEEDED. Won't hurt though. If you're just doing bolt on's, the stock ECU should suffice (ECUFlash).

Timing belt is due at 60K. I'm not gonna lie, you can probably get away with going over 60K. Some members calim being 80k+ on original timing belt. I changed mine at 64k. I also suggest just getting the OEM belts (timing belt, balance belt and tensioner).

 

Thanks for the reply

Do cold air intakes really make a difference on the Evo VIII? If yes which are the best intakes on the market in terms of quality, fitment, sound and power gains?

Ok what O2 housing would you go for?

I've heard the JDM metal BOV is all you need? What's the benefit of going to an aftermarket BOV do they function better? Do the vent to atmosphere or re-circulate? I'm not bothered about the noise LOL

The Walbro 255 appears to be the pump to go with as lots of people are running it. Is it worth upgrading the injectors at this point? If yes which brand and what size?

So the stock intercooler is good for now? Is it only worth uprading when the turbo is upgraded?

With regards to the cams I was thinking I could install a set that would be useful on the stock turbo setup and then sell them and buy some more for stroker/turbo swap. If I'm doing the cambelt, it would be a waste not to slot some in! Ha ha.

My car has an Exede engine management system and I was thinking of getting 2 maps set up. One for 93 on daily driving boost pressure and one on race fuel on a slightly higher boost setting for track days. What do ya think? Does anyone know if AMS can tune Exede? Is it a decent EMS?

I realize its best to match the parts per level of tune. However when possible if I'd like to buy parts that will complement my future upgrade.

Thanks for the help,

Karl

 

aps is the only company that ive seen making a cold air intake. k&n has heat shield with their kit and theres also the apexi induction box as well.

 

Yeah, APS, if the only company I've seen that makes a cold air intake. Any intake should be fine. Buschur Racing has very good products. As far as o2 housings go, alot of people use either an eBay o2 housing or Megan Racing.

The IX BOV is all you need, you're right, but I was just throwing out some other good options. Most BOV's you can get a recirulation kit. BOV's like Forge are ment for recirculation and APS BOV's recirculate and VTA at the same time. No driveability issues. Only reason to VTA is for noise, unless you're running standalone and don't NEED to recirculate.

Injectors are fine for now, but throw in a Walbro 255LPH

The intercooler should be fine, even with a upgraded VIII or IX. If you go 30R or 35R and really start trowing some money into it, then yeah, I'd get a new intercooler.

For the stock turbo with limited mods you can pop in some 264's. Smooth idle and recommended for the stock turbo.

Search around a bit. You can ever go wrong with AMS or Buschur Racing products

 

Why not get a ETS fmic?The price is right and so is the quality.

 

So you guys recommend the following up grades.

Walbro 255LPH fuel pump (sounds like a must have buy!)

A cone style filter, cold air intake or induction box. There are so many to choose from.

JDM BOV or if I wanted some noise what without issues what are the options? Sorry I know there are tons of threads. I've seen some BOV's like the GFB Stealth FX for example that I quote:

"This blow off valve is ideal if you want the loud swoosh without your car stalling out. By utilizing a unique air diverting system, you can control exactly how much air you dump to the atmosphere for noise, or the inlet for silence. By sending the vented air back to the inlet (rather than muffling it), there is no restriction and the valve still operates at maximum efficiency. For cars with sensitive air flow meters such as the EVO, the valve can be tuned to vent just enough air back to the inlet to prevent backfiring while still giving the loudest possible blow-off noises ideal if you want the loud swoosh without your car stalling out.
"
That sounds appealing. Is it really the best BOV for the Evo or are there any others thats are better?

OK moving on....

Boost controller. Why manual and not an electronically controlled unit? Is it just a case of it's simple, does the job and is cost efficient? I can see how the in dash electronic units are advantageous with on the fly adjustment, the visual aspect and the automatic adjustment through gears.... are they overcomplicated or a handy bit of kit. I'm worried that if I have too many knobs and buttons to twist I'll f*** it up and do more harm than good. If I was to buy a electronically controlled boost controller I'd want to keep it simple and easy to use.

Best Manual Boost controller.... Hallman?
Recommended electronically controlled boost controller?

I take it any 02 housing would do?

LICP.... lower intercooler pipe? Is this worth upgrading on a stock inter cooler?
So why isn't it worth upgrading the whole inter cooler now?

Why not upgrade the injectors? If I'm running more boost won't I need upgraded injectors or can the stock injectors keep up? (I don't want to be running lean do I! Ha ha.)

Do you guys have any cam recommendations. What brand? Can I get billet cams for an VIII? Will I need vernier pulleys too? Again which do you recommend.

Ok that's enough questions for now.

Thanks for all your help!

 

(sory if this repeats, but i wont be reading other people's reply)...


i noticed you have one critical piece missing. what is controlling your boost? is it the xede? also if your gonna do a timing belt change, its a perfect time to drop in a cam. if not you can go upgrade your o2 housing and intercooler systems

 

looking at your list, you don't have much done. tint, alarm? these have nothing to do w/ performance.... fuel pump and JDM MR dv is a must. the stock plastic one is so weak, that should be the first one to be replaced. since you live in chicago, don't go w/ manual boost controller like other people suggest, spend a little more buy a greddy profec B spec II, you can do a minor adjustment from driver's seat when there is dramatic temperature change.
btw, I have a JDM MR DV for sale, if you want it pm me.

 

I don't know whats controlling the boost. I presume it's the Exede.

Overall there is some great advice here guys. Thanks for all the help. Once I'm armed with my opinion and advice from you guys I'll think I'll get some pennies together and go see what AMS can sort me out with.

Please keep the recommendations coming

 

Did I say they did? I was just listing the mods.

 

You might want to get your xcase checked. Ask others with high mileage when their transfer cases went out on them, if they did. Due to the weather conditions, no splash guard, and heavy salting they do in my area, mine went bad at 67k. No launching or autoxing. Every once in awhile getting on it on the highway.

 

Awww man don't jinx me. The car spent most it's life in Texas so hasn't seen much of the Chicago winters. Are the transfer case castings porous? What could be happening is oxidation caused by road salt, the casting is absorbing the water and as the water freezes and expands it cracks the case.

I wonder if a casting impregnator sealant would help stop it from cracking?