Project FQ-400
I would have bought a Titek O2 housing. Better separation of the exhaust gases, and no exhaust leak.
The Injen IC pipes work if you cut off 3/4 of an inch off the turbo outlet pipe. Just retain the second rolled part of the out let pipe so the coupler doesn't blow off, and the lower IC pipe will fit perfect, and flow better too.
I would have also stuck with the stock Diverter Valve, for driveability and better performance.
Also, make sure you have good clamps. The one's that came with the Injen kit are alright, but if you're going to be boosting big, I would stretch for better clamps for that extra bit of reliability.
You should be really close to your goal. Good Luck
The Injen IC pipes work if you cut off 3/4 of an inch off the turbo outlet pipe. Just retain the second rolled part of the out let pipe so the coupler doesn't blow off, and the lower IC pipe will fit perfect, and flow better too.
I would have also stuck with the stock Diverter Valve, for driveability and better performance.
Also, make sure you have good clamps. The one's that came with the Injen kit are alright, but if you're going to be boosting big, I would stretch for better clamps for that extra bit of reliability.
You should be really close to your goal. Good Luck
Also... I don't know if any of you guys have had this problem (its breaking my heart, and my wallet) but I had to replace a transfer case at 9k miles. it now has 9600miles and I just got my initial tune at turbo trix and am pushing 330awhp and 340lb/tq. I took it for a spin with the new tune and transfer case... and the sound is starting to come back. what am I doing wrong? I never dumped the clutch. I took a few turns pretty hard on power, thats the only thing i can think of.. but a new transfer case... or rear end, going after a fresh replacement... I'm really starting to wish i never bought this darn thing.
if anyone could link me to a thread that has good info on the drivetrain of the 06 mr with its BS acd that id rather go skeet shooting with... or if you have any ideas/knowledge/parts that can help.. please pm me.
and yes, I think the injectors were not necessary.. Shoulda went with 680cc's I looked at the flash that turbo trix did, and they inputted 650 in the injector size, which means they are for a 680 (you have to put a certain percentage less than what you really have in the value field) I'd imagine 750 woulda been something like 720ish.
regardless... horrible day, drivetrain noise... any assistance would be appreciated.
I guess project FQ is going on pause for a loooong time til i can find a good drivetrain setup that can handle the darn thing.
Sorry to hear that your having troubles. FYI, an average full bolt-ons and FP Green Evo should stomp the FQ400. It must have a poor factory tune to only be making 400bhp unless it's under-rated which is always a strong possibility.
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Nice setup


5435434 photobucket links... I mean, I love firefox and all, but that's just not cool... Here fixed it for ya
update
So the car's transfer case got replaced, and my warranty was voided because of my cat-back exhaust. Oh well. Apparently it was just the warranty on the transfer case.
Turns out that they probably have been putting in the wrong fluid, OR having totally worn front tires, and next to new rear tires, over time, and at high speed, wore out the transfer case due to different circumference in tire sizes. (silly sensitive AWD cars)
Anywho, the t-case I have now, makes noise, but not as much, and isnt getting worse. The car has all the mods back in, and I used the stock BOV, and let me tell you, you guys were right. drivability is ON POINT.. I can actually modulate the throttle without getting whiplash.
I have ordered a 2" in/out larger intercooler by OBX (cheapest simplest that I could find with < .2psi loss @ >30psi.
Also ordered a JDM rear bumper (cant wait to see how it looks next to the greddy Ti cat back)
And the carbing 6 point brace for the front lower (because the two stock bars couldnt fit cause of the massive downpipe)
Also getting the front nose stiffener that eliminates the need for the front bumper brace (which weighs 20 lbs) I love shaving weight.
Ive been data logging and noticed 1 knock from 1st through 3rd gear, 4 knocks max on a 4th gear pull, 5 knocks max on a 5th gear pull. Gonna do some more readings and check out timing advance/retard multipliers.
I believe the car will be pushing 350ish hp to the wheels. did 320 on a 3rd pull (after a heat soaked IC) when the mods were first installed. After an intercooler and a little mivec tuning, I'm going to take it back to the dyno and see what I'm getting.
I hear that the FQ400 actually has 400 to the wheels... is this true? I dont believe it, but let me know if you guys have any concrete facts on this.
THank you for your support guys. shooting for an even 400 :-) (then i'll blow up the turbo and get the titanium 20g and call it a day)
-M
Turns out that they probably have been putting in the wrong fluid, OR having totally worn front tires, and next to new rear tires, over time, and at high speed, wore out the transfer case due to different circumference in tire sizes. (silly sensitive AWD cars)
Anywho, the t-case I have now, makes noise, but not as much, and isnt getting worse. The car has all the mods back in, and I used the stock BOV, and let me tell you, you guys were right. drivability is ON POINT.. I can actually modulate the throttle without getting whiplash.
I have ordered a 2" in/out larger intercooler by OBX (cheapest simplest that I could find with < .2psi loss @ >30psi.
Also ordered a JDM rear bumper (cant wait to see how it looks next to the greddy Ti cat back)
And the carbing 6 point brace for the front lower (because the two stock bars couldnt fit cause of the massive downpipe)
Also getting the front nose stiffener that eliminates the need for the front bumper brace (which weighs 20 lbs) I love shaving weight.
Ive been data logging and noticed 1 knock from 1st through 3rd gear, 4 knocks max on a 4th gear pull, 5 knocks max on a 5th gear pull. Gonna do some more readings and check out timing advance/retard multipliers.
I believe the car will be pushing 350ish hp to the wheels. did 320 on a 3rd pull (after a heat soaked IC) when the mods were first installed. After an intercooler and a little mivec tuning, I'm going to take it back to the dyno and see what I'm getting.
I hear that the FQ400 actually has 400 to the wheels... is this true? I dont believe it, but let me know if you guys have any concrete facts on this.
THank you for your support guys. shooting for an even 400 :-) (then i'll blow up the turbo and get the titanium 20g and call it a day)
-M
im knocking actually. I turned the boost down to a 25 spike (on initial spool) tapering to a 19 by red. I will run another log soon. its some generic manual perrin bc. everyone is saying to go electrical... but ithats a lot of dough just for a bc. any mbc's that hold boost on spool up to red at the same psi? any suggestions? I wanna set it to 22 and call it a day. once my bigger intercooler comes in... im going to dyno it again, then the drivetrain begins! (then brakes, then suspension)
for drivetrain, all I will be doing is a twin disc exedy w/ light fw, and a shephard transfer case.
brakes: brembo 6 piston fronnt, 4 rear ( since the fq400 has 6/4, although they say mitsubishi on them)
suspension is still a toss up, all I know is that I do NOT want this thing hovering 2" from the ground! LOL
I'm open to any feedback from experiences ... =)
for drivetrain, all I will be doing is a twin disc exedy w/ light fw, and a shephard transfer case.
brakes: brembo 6 piston fronnt, 4 rear ( since the fq400 has 6/4, although they say mitsubishi on them)
suspension is still a toss up, all I know is that I do NOT want this thing hovering 2" from the ground! LOL
I'm open to any feedback from experiences ... =)
Last edited by MagicManRed; Jul 7, 2008 at 08:04 PM.
I'm pushing 320whp with 340tq
(this was a crappy run, stock IC was heat soaked, and I have a P.O.S. MBC)
So I'll be receiving my larger inter cooler sometime this week, and I'm still in the market for a good clean boost controller.
Any suggestions?
I don't expect a huge gain from the IC, maybe 10-20, but that still puts me 50 shy of the FQ400.
I'd imagine I'd be at 335-340whp and 350-360tq after the IC... I'll have numbers in a couple weeks. I can't find my old dyno sheet, but when I do, I'll scan it and post 'er up so you guys can see the power curves.
Any other thoughts as to what else I can do before upgrading the turbo? I get a lot of mixed feedback about cams on the Evo9, some say that they don't make a difference.
Will alcohol injection increase HP, or just make the engine run more cool and consistent?
Also, any nicely priced radiators that will noticeably decrease water temp on load and heat?
As for my last thoughts of bolt ons: any intake manifolds proven to give more HP without treacherous loss of TQ? and any good exhaust manifolds that go on a stock turbo that may do the same?
I want to keep it as simple as possible. Lastly, is it even possible/safe to do 400whp with stock internals? Anyone achieve this? Is alcohol necessary at that point? or will the 750cc injectors give enough fuel for this?
Looking forward to your replies
-M
A colder thermostat will take care of coolant temps just fine on this setup along with some Water Wetter. 400awhp is WAY doable on stock internals...I have over 80,000 miles on the stock internals with close to 500awhp. With this hp level an aftermarket ic wont yield a whole lot...likely an hp gain from doing the ic would come from the increased diameter of the lower ic pipe. As far as a manual boost controller, I would go with the Hallman. Alcohol isnt necessary but it would make your goal easier to attain. 750cc injectors are fine unless you want to run e85 at this level.



