Gonna update your Blog - how did it go last weekend??

 

Mine was noticeably louder, but I had Whiteline rear diff bushings put on when the rear diff went back in. The diff was broken in with 2 weeks of daily driving, and I don't even notice any additional noise now...

 

Thanks, I have the AMS moustcache brace eliminator and solid diff to body mount bushings and is fuilly gutted out - so my car is going to sound like an autobot transforming, I think....

 

LOL! You'll definitely hear the reworked rear diff, but once it breaks in after a few weeks, you'll be right back to the comforting "bolts & golf ***** in the dryer" hush you're used to.

 

I can probably swing it for 1.5 way but the 2-way side sheaves will have quite a bit of backlash of the cross shaft and it may cause a lot of slop in the rear diff. I'm going to pull the max-lock out and try it with the 1.5 sheaves but I might go straight to the 2-way being that I kinda know how the 1.5-way works. I honestly think that the max-lock will be best for loose stuff (rally) being that it does lock-up the rear diff something stupid and does make the car unruly in a way that I didn't like.

 

Seeing how this thread was bumped up and I have some more events under my belt with the TRE rear diff...I LOVE this thing. I actually spun the car on a 1st gear 180 degree pin cone on exit. Straight up foot to the floor, boost came on and I was backwards. Had a big 'ol smile on my face.

Seriously though....totally worth the $$. I'm able to come out of corners harder and earlier now, not to mention faster corners on throttle the car turns, like I need to add steering correction it's turning so much.

Thanks Jon.

 

LOL I did that a few days ago with the same rear diff upgrade in a friends EVO. I could have steered out of it but I didn't and I kept the throttle planted as it was too late to save it anyway

Luckily there wasn't any traffic around me when I spun the car or there would have been trouble.

Yeah the standard upgrade with 12 friction plates is plenty of lock-up to get you into trouble if you're looking for it.


And this is why I state the the new max-lock with 16 clutch plates is overkill for you guys who never make it to the loose stuff (dirt, snow & ice).

The rear diff is a floating cross shaft design; it's torque reactionary and the looser the driving surface the less lock-up you'll get but the max-lock is very reactive to any input and will prove to be too much for those who drive on pavement.

Pavement = standard upgrade or 12 friction plates, 50% more lock-up than stock.
Loose stuff = 16 friction plates, overkill unless you're in the loose stuff.

 

Any tips or tricks to getting the diff out???

 

Use the FSM

 

Other than the manual (I have one). Tips/tricks. Things not mentioned in the manual.

 

It's a pain in the ***. You really need to pull both rear axles then remove the driveshaft and drop the diff. You don't HAVE to drop the rear subframe, there is room to get in there. I'd also recommend doing the rear diff bushings while you're in there. If you do the moustache bar bushings then you'll have to drop the subframe.

 

Thanks. I was planning on doing the diff bushings and the moustache bushings. I knew for those of us who mostly work under jack stands, it wasn't going to be fun. I can smell the gear oil now...

Speaking of which, what do you guys think of the Red Line shockproof? Currently I am using the Mitsu Diaqueen in the rear diff and transfer case.

 

Stick with the Diaqueen for the middle and rear...

 

From what I hear Shep likes the Redline Shockproof Heavy Duty. At least that he told a friend that had his TC case rebuilt.

 

If you talk to both him and TRE you can find out about where the heavy additive ends up after prolonged use in the x-fer case (where Shep suggests it's used IIRC, still suggesting Diaqueen in the rear). Sure, for a all out race car it's acceptable. Is that what we are talking about here?