It's freezing outside and I boost creep.... :(
That's a weird situation. My boost also spikes a lot higher in the cold, but the spike is uniform in all gears. Where is your boost source for the mbc? Turbo outlet or BOV line?
Don't know what my source is, Devo did the install when i was getting my tune. I'm not too good with cars so what should I be looking for when I'm looking for the source.
The side port of the mbc, runs a vacuum hose to the wastegate actuator. The other port of the MBC, where does it tee into the vacuum hose at? Between the BOV to near the bottom right corner of the valve cover area? or farther away towards the top left-hand side of the engine, (fuel pressure regulator)? In essence where is the MBC recieving it's boost reference from?
EBC isn't necessary.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=mbc+install
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=mbc+install
a thread on what's the difference, etc...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=mbc+install
the thread I used four years ago, haha. It's still the best, IMO.
These should help you get a better understanding of how things work. In my opinion, in order to fix something, the first step is always researching or learning how it works normally. Then you go from there. Hope these links help ya out!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=mbc+install
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=mbc+install
a thread on what's the difference, etc...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=mbc+install
the thread I used four years ago, haha. It's still the best, IMO.
These should help you get a better understanding of how things work. In my opinion, in order to fix something, the first step is always researching or learning how it works normally. Then you go from there. Hope these links help ya out!
no ebc go with the source dude. dont waste 400$ basically when hes saying source he means atleast on my car with external wastegate which im assumming is the same concept as the internal gated wastegate.
there is probably like a white tee splitting 3 ways one to the wastegate one to the motor and one to the boost controller if the boost controller (aka my car) is just straight off the wastegate it has less of traveling to do.. i think it might help if something is cancled out.
im sure other people no of certain ways to help you out rather then buying an ebc.
hopefully someone can build off of my input because im having the same problem as you..
Hope this helps a little man...
good luck
there is probably like a white tee splitting 3 ways one to the wastegate one to the motor and one to the boost controller if the boost controller (aka my car) is just straight off the wastegate it has less of traveling to do.. i think it might help if something is cancled out.
im sure other people no of certain ways to help you out rather then buying an ebc.
hopefully someone can build off of my input because im having the same problem as you..
Hope this helps a little man...
good luck
Yes, an EBC is not necessary in order for you to make 21 PSI and keep 21 PSI to redline. However, you'll see more fluctuations without one (either through boost spike down low around 5000 RPM's or maybe through taper up in the higher RPM's or through creep in higher RPM's in higher gears). An EBC will get rid of all of these because it is constantly adjusting itself based on what it is sensing. It's like having a midget under your hood adjusting an MBC the whole time you're driving while he's also looking at a boost gauge to keep it all consistent. BTW, this midget is really quick at making adjustments.
An MBC is simply a check valve with a spring and a ball. You can make it sound like there's lots of technology and math involved in it's function, but in reality, there's not.
I've used MBC's for years as well as EBC's. I was experiencing fuel cut on a 4G63 back in 1996. Many will argue and say that you can do the same with an EBC that you can do with a MBC. That's fine. They're entitled to their opinions. I know what has worked for me for over a decade.
An MBC is simply a check valve with a spring and a ball. You can make it sound like there's lots of technology and math involved in it's function, but in reality, there's not.
I've used MBC's for years as well as EBC's. I was experiencing fuel cut on a 4G63 back in 1996. Many will argue and say that you can do the same with an EBC that you can do with a MBC. That's fine. They're entitled to their opinions. I know what has worked for me for over a decade.
Two to three PSI increase in boost(spike) if the ambients are 30* F. colder sounds about right. Just turn your MBC down a couple PSI. Personally, I like setting peak boost in 4th or 5th. Set it in 5th and that will take the creep into account.
The welded S.S. O2 housing, reduces backpressure within the turbine housing, and thus will make boost creep more, not less, especially with an unported turbine housing. If you really want to control creep then port the turbine housing's wastegate bypass port. You can do this yourself with an electric drill and some flapper wheels. Just takes a couple hours.
The welded S.S. O2 housing, reduces backpressure within the turbine housing, and thus will make boost creep more, not less, especially with an unported turbine housing. If you really want to control creep then port the turbine housing's wastegate bypass port. You can do this yourself with an electric drill and some flapper wheels. Just takes a couple hours.
Last edited by sparky; Jan 24, 2008 at 03:10 AM.
I'm having boost creep problems as well, first time in 2 years that I've had my Evo. I have no tune, EBC (set to peak at 19psi), 3" turbo back exhaust all the way with test pipe, everything else is stock. I tuned on the ebc to see if I'm really creeping bad or not, and BHAM! I hit 131KPA (about 19psi) with the ebc off by redline... Does anyone know the cause of this, any help is appreciated!
i to am suffering from the boost creep demon
i had a helix 02 housing installed and now i suffer.
i have a hallman mbc will this help fix my situation???
if not im considering going back to stock 02 housing.
just trying to find a good solution i hate wasting money on parts that make the car worse.
any advice will be greatly appreciated.
i am also getting the spike from my 19 psi to 24-25psi around 4.5k rpms
everytime i want to go fast it feels like the dam car hits a wall.
i had a helix 02 housing installed and now i suffer.
i have a hallman mbc will this help fix my situation???
if not im considering going back to stock 02 housing.
just trying to find a good solution i hate wasting money on parts that make the car worse.
any advice will be greatly appreciated.
i am also getting the spike from my 19 psi to 24-25psi around 4.5k rpms
everytime i want to go fast it feels like the dam car hits a wall.
There have been a lot of threads concerning the too small merge hole in aftermarket O2 housings. Remove DP and measure the merge hole. If it is smaller tha a golf ball's diameter then grind on it. I think that you can do it while it is still mounted to the turbo from underneath.
For and hks evc 5/6 your looking at anywhere between $500-$600 new. I would just swap over to the hallman(or keep your old one) and go get a tune(talk to kunal)
all the guys here have presented you with good options.
Choose wisely. Hope you fix your problem and +1 for being a windy city dweller.
all the guys here have presented you with good options.
Choose wisely. Hope you fix your problem and +1 for being a windy city dweller.
Just to give you guys a heads up the Helix o2 housing has a big enough merge hole for a golf ball to fall through it. I'm still going to port it out some more though. My buddy turbo demon and I have the helix o2 housing. He just needs a tune to fix his issue.



All those EBC are around $400.