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new at this new 2.0 build

Old Feb 9, 2008 | 09:50 PM
  #16  
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From: 41° 59' N, 87° 54' W
Originally Posted by possessedimport

i also want to bring the rpm up to about 9000 to get the best from the turbo. tell me what you think about my little set up. im open to any ideas. tell me what i need and dont need also thanx
Well, let's see. Couple of good suggestions already. I would have either AMS or Buschur do the work for you. Mixing and matching will generally cause problems, so unless you have a lot of time on your hands, or want to go the DIY route, having one shop do the work should pay good dividends.

Things you haven't talked about:
- what engine management system?
- what kind of gas? ... assuming racegas, but ya never know...
- what is the car going to be used for? (street, strip, auto-x, road-racing, rally)

Ok, my opinions:

BOTTOM END
eagle rods - ditch these in favor of crower, oliver, pauter. If you're going to build the engine, do it right the first time
je 9:0.1 pistons - will work, I prefer AMS' ross pistons
exedy twin disc clutch hd version - I have the HD, when I rebuild it, I will go with the non-hd ... my knee is complaining.

HEAD
crower 280 cams - dunno how good these are. I run HKS 280's, I may up to Jun 272's
springs and retainers - yep gonna need these, I run supertech and am happy with them
cam gears arp head bolts
1000cc injectors
magnus intake manifold - just say no. Either AMS VSR or Buschur's ported stock
i want a tb but i dont know which would be best - 65mm ported to start, unless you go baller and get 3" IC piping and a 75mm TB.

turbo kit
gt 35r or 37r kit either or ... will depend on your application
hks bov - only with standalone EMS, otherwise get something better
xspower 12x24x3 inter cooler with custom ic pipes - AMS race FMIC or Buschur race FMIC FTW. Look at Buschur's IC test results (on Buschur's web site)
255 fuel pump - gonna need more than that.

As has been mentioned, you will want to remove the balance shafts if you're going to rev that high ... do it the AMS way (search for their post on this). You'll need a bunch of miscellaneous smaller things to make sure that it all continues to work reliably ... bringing us back to having a good shop do all of the work. Good luck! A built 2.0L is a ton of fun ... I know.

l8r)
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #17  
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From: Team English Racing
Originally Posted by Ludikraut
Well, let's see. Couple of good suggestions already. I would have either AMS or Buschur do the work for you. Mixing and matching will generally cause problems, so unless you have a lot of time on your hands, or want to go the DIY route, having one shop do the work should pay good dividends.

Things you haven't talked about:
- what engine management system?
- what kind of gas? ... assuming racegas, but ya never know...
- what is the car going to be used for? (street, strip, auto-x, road-racing, rally)

Ok, my opinions:

BOTTOM END
eagle rods - ditch these in favor of crower, oliver, pauter. If you're going to build the engine, do it right the first time
je 9:0.1 pistons - will work, I prefer AMS' ross pistons
exedy twin disc clutch hd version - I have the HD, when I rebuild it, I will go with the non-hd ... my knee is complaining.

HEAD
crower 280 cams - dunno how good these are. I run HKS 280's, I may up to Jun 272's
springs and retainers - yep gonna need these, I run supertech and am happy with them
cam gears arp head bolts
1000cc injectors
magnus intake manifold - just say no. Either AMS VSR or Buschur's ported stock
i want a tb but i dont know which would be best - 65mm ported to start, unless you go baller and get 3" IC piping and a 75mm TB.

turbo kit
gt 35r or 37r kit either or ... will depend on your application
hks bov - only with standalone EMS, otherwise get something better
xspower 12x24x3 inter cooler with custom ic pipes - AMS race FMIC or Buschur race FMIC FTW. Look at Buschur's IC test results (on Buschur's web site)
255 fuel pump - gonna need more than that.

As has been mentioned, you will want to remove the balance shafts if you're going to rev that high ... do it the AMS way (search for their post on this). You'll need a bunch of miscellaneous smaller things to make sure that it all continues to work reliably ... bringing us back to having a good shop do all of the work. Good luck! A built 2.0L is a ton of fun ... I know.

l8r)
The Magnus manifold David tested wasn't the new version ive ran the new version and its what i made my power on.
ETS fmic works awesome and the price is great. If you dont have someone that knows these motor to build them have AMS or David build you one.

GSC S2 cams are proven . I made 1014 whp and AMS ran there times and made 1050 whp on GSC cams. IF your going to revv over 9000rpms you will need to have the head checked the install height. If that is off you will throw rockers... For your power level i would really use a proven shop to do the work
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 11:53 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by vboy425
eagle rods, lighten the stock crank, wiseco 9.0:1. Supertech dual valvesprings and retainers. Clivite race bearings. balance shaft removed, you should do it. The little belt won't last that long reving up to 9k before it snap and you can say bye bye to your block. This is what i have on my evo. Roadracing course rev it up 9,500rpm all day long.


supertech valve springs.. blow nuts...after 6 months these valve springs... lose 40% of their hold...do some research or use them..they are junk........stock springs work just aas well...obviously these guys need to make money so they suggest junk
crank can stay the same no need to lighten it..just polish and balance it...100 bucks max!!...balance shaft remove..dont get the lightend shaft..it means bull****..ams claims its so great..people have been doing this on dsms for years...go with the stub shaft same god damn thing ..ejnoy

stay with eagle!
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 11:55 PM
  #19  
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From: Team English Racing
Originally Posted by jezefink
supertech valve springs.. blow nuts...after 6 months these valve springs... lose 40% of their hold...do some research or use them..they are junk........stock springs work just aas well...obviously these guys need to make money so they suggest junk
crank can stay the same no need to lighten it..just polish and balance it...100 bucks max!!...balance shaft remove..dont get the lightend shaft..it means bull****..ams claims its so great..people have been doing this on dsms for years...go with the stub shaft same god damn thing ..ejnoy

stay with eagle!
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 04:01 AM
  #20  
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From: Spec Ops
Originally Posted by dxbevo9
which little belt are you reffering to...can you please be more specific?
balanceshaft belt. since i have the balanceshaft eliminator kit, no need for that stupid little belt anymore. Before i rebuild my engine. I keep on getting fking crank walk during Roadracing course. pisses me off.

Originally Posted by jezefink
supertech valve springs.. blow nuts...after 6 months these valve springs... lose 40% of their hold...do some research or use them..they are junk........stock springs work just aas well...obviously these guys need to make money so they suggest junk
crank can stay the same no need to lighten it..just polish and balance it...100 bucks max!!...balance shaft remove..dont get the lightend shaft..it means bull****..ams claims its so great..people have been doing this on dsms for years...go with the stub shaft same god damn thing ..ejnoy

stay with eagle!

i guess 47 roadcourse track days, time attack, NASA. doesn't mean ****. What testing have you done ? i guess beating the crap out of my evo for 20 minutes session doesn't count either.

Last edited by vboy425; Feb 11, 2008 at 01:43 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #21  
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From: 41° 59' N, 87° 54' W
Originally Posted by jezefink
supertech valve springs.. blow nuts...after 6 months these valve springs... lose 40% of their hold...do some research or use them..they are junk........stock springs work just aas well...obviously these guys need to make money so they suggest junk
crank can stay the same no need to lighten it..just polish and balance it...100 bucks max!!...balance shaft remove..dont get the lightend shaft..it means bull****..ams claims its so great..people have been doing this on dsms for years...go with the stub shaft same god damn thing ..ejnoy

stay with eagle!
Please ... don't go away mad ... just go away.

l8r)
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 09:10 AM
  #22  
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i just say it how it is. Sorry im not another member that jumps on the bandwagon of all these vendors and products
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 04:50 PM
  #23  
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Watch how you go about expressing your opinions though, or you may NOT get to do it here in this forum. In short, keep it respectful, and offer whatever opinion you like.

BTW I'd say you are wrong on the balance shaft for an Evo application for sure... but what do I know... that's my opinion.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 04:56 PM
  #24  
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your probably one of the first people to ask quesiton ive seen and actually did a little research


For the most parts looks like you did good, but you might consider running EMS with those 1000 injectors i dunno if the stock ECU would like em to much haha, and id get Tial over HKS anyday dont get that ricer bov..........
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 10:51 PM
  #25  
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From: jersey
Originally Posted by cssaddictm4
Big question first: are you looking or 550 or 650 to the crank or to the wheels?
sorry for taking so long to check up on my thread and post. ive talked to my friend who works on evos and im looking for now at least 580 to 650 to the wheels the car is not going to be a full track car so its not going that high of rpms every day. i just figured thats where the turbo would some what reach its limits. im working on a new list of mods since ive been searching on the forums and seeing what others are using and making power with and from what im told to use. tomorrow ill post up the list because most of its stored im my head and im too tired to pull them out.
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #26  
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the car will be used for mostly drag strip but i would like to try circuit but thats last on my mind. this will also be a everyday driver as well even though it wont be driven everyday and will be raced when there is a potential car like honda's where i came from and muscle cars. basically ill be dragging it some times ok heres my new list

crower rods
eagle pistons
exedy twin disc hd clutch
supertech springs & retainers
HKS 272 cams
arp head bolts
ams vsr manifold with 75mm throttle body
buschur racing double pumper fuel set up
1000cc injectors
93 + meth
buschur racing hta gt35r tubular manifold kit .63ar
buschur racing intercooler kit with tail bov
aem ems
3" turbo back

tell me what you think and what i should add because i know some things are missing
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 04:32 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by possessedimport
hey guys. i am a prior honda man that has a turbo integra gsr its a semi build up lsvtec with rods pistons type r cams and a sc63 turbo and now a proud owner of an evo 8. ive heard great things about the evo's and did a little research on it and i am damn pleased. im looking for about 550 to 650 hp with what i had in mind but i dont want to do a stroker kit. heres my set up that i want to doremember this is a ruff draft

BOTTOM END
eagle rods
je 9:0.1 pistons
exedy twin disc clutch hd version

HEAD
crower 280 cams
springs and retainers
cam gears arp head bolts
1000cc injectors
magnus intake manifold
i want a tb but i dont know which would be best

turbo kit
gt 35r or 37r kit either or
hks bov
xspower 12x24x3 inter cooler with custom ic pipes
255 fuel pump

i also want to bring the rpm up to about 9000 to get the best from the turbo. tell me what you think about my little set up. im open to any ideas. tell me what i need and dont need also thanx
eagle rods are fine. have never heard ANYTHING go wrong with them. just because they are inexpensive compared to overrated, very expensive rods like pauter, although if u do have money, go with pauter.

cams - most people, i think, on here would agree to cossie m2 or gsc s2

cam gears wont be neccessary.

if you're gonna be running pump or race gas, 1000cc are not neccessary unless u run over 35psi.

buschur tbe

NO XS POWER INTERCOOLERS. PROVEN TO NOT WORK
i had an xs power then i bought an ets, very big difference in heat soaking and temp drops....and i had the higher-end xs power intercooler. i logged everything just so u noe.

NO HKS BOV if u plan to run stock ecu (which at this level, 35, 37r or bigger, u should go with aftermarkey EMS like the AEM)

thats about it
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 08:08 PM
  #28  
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You dont want the magnus intake manifold. Its proven to loose power over the stock manifold. Buschur concluded the test, and you can visit buschurracing.com and see it for yourself in the forums.
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 09:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CrackerJackToy
You dont want the magnus intake manifold. Its proven to loose power over the stock manifold. Buschur concluded the test, and you can visit buschurracing.com and see it for yourself in the forums.
It would be helpful if you could read. As Dave Buschur has stated repeatedly, the Buschur test was done on the original (early) Magnus manifold, not the current one. The current one is the one that Paul mentioned above, used on his 1014 HP dyno runs.
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 09:19 PM
  #30  
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As far as Eagle rods go, they are stronger than stock, but have had failures which caused Dave Buschur and other builders to refuse to use them anymore. You can find his recent post on that issue with a search. My personal opinion is if you are going to build to the power levels you mentioned, you'd better be using a set of Crowers or Pauters, and spend the extra $300 or so for peace of mind.
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