hey. I just mailed my engine off for a long block build at JAM. stage III heads and stroker. Just curious, what can I expect from this as a daily driver. Does this affect fuel mileage significantly when off boost? I did get a new clutch so I'm not worried about clamping after I get tuned. What about those of you that live in places with emission testing. Any issues with passing on a "test " map?

 

maybe you should have asked this before you sent the engine out

 

Thats no fun is it? Seriously. Maybe its buyers regret kicking in. I just spent a crap ton of money and I'm not too experienced with this engine. I came from STi's. Anyhow, I'm just looking for people with some experience in a 2.3 stroker. Any kind of common problems, issues or concerns. I have been searching but its pretty hard to sift through 3000 posts.

 

I will say this, look into getting a AEM standalone.

 

any reason in particular? I've heard of them being tuned on oem ecu's. I'm not looking for much as far as numbers go right now.

 

Sounds like a big waste of money to me. Go spend 7k to not use a a big turbo, turn up the boost, or go for big power then why even get a stroker/race head combo?

If I had emissions and wanted a DD with decent gas mileage. I don't know if I even would have bought a EVO first off and secondly I never would spend all that money to not use it to it's potential.

Back to your question I think the difference in MPG will be minimal and with a good tune, assuming you were stock before, your MPG may even go up.

 

As long as the tune is good your MPG will be fine. As far as emissions go as long as they don't do a tailpipe test your fine. If they do than you might want to throw the cat back on (if you have a testpipe) and have your tuner do an "emissions only" tune that runs it really lean JUST for your emissions. If you go with AEM you won't be able to pass emissions period as that eliminates the OBD-II port. If you want to go standalone and still have the OBD port check out the HKS F-con. It still allows you to use the OBD port, but it cost around 5k. As I understand a good reputable tuner will be able to tune your stock ECU with no problems though.

 

I am not talking about going with a standalone for emissions reasons.

 

i have the ams stroker and my mileage is the same. just stay off boost. i can also tell you that if this is your daily you are in for a surprise. i run the aem ems, solid motor mounts, gt35, balance shafts removed, etc and the drivability is definatly not like stock. i would not want to drive this car as a daily driver. it is a pain in the *** to start and is very loud among other things. it is my weekend car and i wouldn't have it any other way but it is like a prom queen. i was *****ing to Arne at ams about it and he said it best "it's a race car what do you expect." it is also the most insane car when you hit full boost. boost comes on faster then my 50 trim stock 2.0 and it just keeps on going. it is raw and violent. i cannot say enough about a 35r 2.3 stroker. except don't drive it to work everyday.

 

Me and a few other people have had a hell of a time getting the JAM 2.3 motor to run correctly on the stock ecu, because of false knock.

That is why I say go standalone, and save yourself from alot of trouble!

 

Haha yes all people thinking of new motor + bigger turbo.... listen to the above! You will not have a car as quiet or daily driveable as the stock motor. You must realize what your getting into and do your best to find someone with a built motor and big turbo to get an idea what your getting into.

 

i wanted to go stroker at first myself but then decided that id rather just build and stay with the 2.0. i wanna rev to 9k. i just installed the green also and if i do get a bigger turbo later on im gonna go with the buschur 30r kit. i dont really want anything bigger than that. the 30r spool isnt so bad so i dont really need a stroker motor for it. good luck with your motor/head build and hopefully all turns out for the best.

 

Why do you "want to rev to 9k"?

If your powerband is well below 9k... shouldn't you, "want to rev inside your powerband"?

 

im talking about when i upgrade to the 30r man. i dont want to rev that high with a green.

 

If you look at dyno sheets for 30R's... I think you will find shifting at under 8k would be advisable as reving any higher and you will be going slower as you are outside the power band.

Biggest misconception on EvoM....

"I want a 2 litre so I can rev to 9k"