Those are some good points voidhawk.
It gets down to the low 20s or even teens here at night in winter.
Another thing that seems strange to me that i am losing so much boost... I'm sure it's entirely possible, but just wouldn't imagine a hole as small as the TB shaft would leak so much.

 

that's cold! Check out the "heavy duty spring" t-bolt clamps on these pages:
http://www.justchil.net/evo/part_lis...st_clamps.html
http://www.turbohoses.com/Clamp.htm

I got mine from NAPA, and use them for everything except the FMIC couplers (no room there).

 

I thought i had covered all my bases with regular T-bolt clamps but I guess not. When I looked at the spring loaded ones I thought they would be LESS reliable, but I guess the spring tension is enough that they might be advantageous.

Off-topic ide note: I wonder why the Japanese never seem to use anything than regular worm drive clamps. Surprisingly, I have yet to see a Japanese tuner car with T-Bolts or anything else besides worm drive clamps. Weird.

 

just out of curiosity, how many of you guys have had the TB leak? My buddy had one in his MR and since he did the test i figured i would too, and low and behold i had one at the TB as well. When AMS tuned it, they said it wasn't holding boost. I may take it apart soon and put the new TB on. Just though i would ask and see how common this was.

 

Thats because if you spent good money on intecooler piping and intercooler they should have that expanded ring around the pipe so when a normal worm drive clamp is used it has no way of slipping off that coupler with the expanded metal ring there. I still like t bolts though i feel safer with them.

 

Extremely common, here is where you can pick up the seals if you were not aware...

http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=415

or...

http://www.machevo.com/thbose.html

 

Are you saying it holds with tester when it's cold but doesn't (again, with tester) when warm and can hear the leaking too?

Or that it boosts fine cold but doesnt sometimes when warm?

 

going out on a limb here , but this adds up in my head .
#1 and #4 should be at TDC at the same time and #2 and #3 should be at BDC at the same time also .
There might be intake or ex valve open but not both @#1TDC
So the air wil not go through the motor vs Not at #1TDC and having some valve overlap and the compresed air going out the tail pipe .
The valve overlap has happined to the 2 times and i had to trun the motor over to get a good psi test .

 

so, would most of you buy the new seal kit or get a new TB (like the bushur oem ported and sealed)? I know there is some price difference but i heard these gaskets are not fun to replace

 

Okay, so just to reiterate what I think you said, as long as I am really at TCD for Cyl. #1/4, and BDC for cyl. #2/3, it should hold pressure? and the marks on the cam gears will indicate this?

I am probably going to just oder the Works seals. I have also realized that it could be my MBC. I will be testing tonight.
Thanks everyone.

 

New seal kit , it took me longer to take off the coolant line on the TB than change out the seal . Just make sure b4 you start you have all the tool/loctite/lube...

MACHV $11-12 shipped

 

I know iam hard to follow sometime
Yes , #1@tdc = no valve overlap
yes it should hold psi
yep cam gear will have marks that line up with the valve cover marks

 

Kind of. It holds with the tester when cold, and usually is not very hot ( hot like when it does leak) any time i am testing it. It doesn't even leak (noticeably) while hot. To be more specific, it holds 19-21psi spikes, except under these situations...

Yesterday was about 50* outside. I tried to get it to leak by flogging the car as hard as I could at WOT on highway on/off ramps for 15-20min straight. It wouldn't leak!

Giving up, I went to pick up lunch, and parked it at the establishment for about 15 min. Got back in the car, and it leaked even at partial throttle, even in 2nd gear as soon as I accelerated down the street.

So, apparently airflow at highway speeds cool whatever is leaking enough to prevent the leak, even if I am really getting on it hard. Once parked and allowed to heat soak for a few minutes, the leak surfaces. But then it disappears again as soon a it's a bit cooler (just cooler enough not to be burning hot, but still hot) It ONLY leaks after it has been run hard enough to get "operating hot," then l been allowed to idle/run at low enough speed to be "heatsoak hot" Which is why the leak has been so hard to find and I have burns on my hands.

Which is why I started this thread, as at this point I am willing to just try to address everything possible at once, provided I don't find it tonight. At least now I know what I have to do to make it leak, assuming ambient temps won't be too low tonight.

 

Thanks Matt!

 

I have seem a few WG actuator diaphrams tear and cause a boost leak that will only show up under certain temerature and throttle conditions. When you do your boost leak test, how long will it hold pressure for. What I like to do is pressure the system with about 15 PSI and then wait about 8 seconds or so and see it is still holding. Simply pull the line from the BOV off and see if there is still pressure in it. This is more of a leak down test. The system will not hold pressure for too long no matter how tight it all is, but it should be able to hold for close to 10 seconds or so.