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Easy Break-In of New Engine NOT a Good Idea?

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Old Jul 30, 2003 | 07:17 PM
  #16  
Zeus's Avatar
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I used this method when I rebuilt my Integra GSR... running 10:1 compression, .20 over OE pistons, 8 psi of boost from a non-intercooled Jackson blower, 450cc RC injectors, and a preprogramed Hondata ECU with fuel cut set at about 8700rpm. The car didn't burn a lick of oil after 40 miles, and still doesn't 5K later. The wife drives the car 25 miles one-way through rush hour traffic 5 days a week. With the wife driving, this car will run down my stock Evo from a stand still... I'll get her off the launch by 4-5 lengths only to be reeled in quickly, very quickly. I'm happy enough with the process that I will use this type of break in on every motor vehicle from now on.
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Old Jul 30, 2003 | 10:36 PM
  #17  
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My .02 on this is break em in hard(ish) =)

Every car I've owned (from 1 to 17 miles start) I've driven "quickly" off the lot. Meaning I will start out slow, get the oil warm, then do some freeway runs, slowly increasing the rpm to max on successive runs. I do not abuse the car at all - simply "stretching out" the engine. Then I take it fairly easy, short shifting where I can with small blips to redline occasionally. Then the engine gets a steady diet of Redline at the 600 mile mark. It's worked well for me over the years and the engines that I've taken care of show excellent leak down and compression checks after 30-70K miles of hard use.

This is the first car I've had that needed "only" 600 miles of break-in....me thinks that the forged internals are already set from the factory and this 600 miles is a way of getting the driver to take it easy in such a fast car.
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Old Jul 31, 2003 | 05:45 AM
  #18  
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From: Tri-State
Originally posted by DrMerl
My .02 on this is break em in hard(ish) =)

Every car I've owned (from 1 to 17 miles start) I've driven "quickly" off the lot. Meaning I will start out slow, get the oil warm, then do some freeway runs, slowly increasing the rpm to max on successive runs. I do not abuse the car at all - simply "stretching out" the engine. Then I take it fairly easy, short shifting where I can with small blips to redline occasionally. Then the engine gets a steady diet of Redline at the 600 mile mark. It's worked well for me over the years and the engines that I've taken care of show excellent leak down and compression checks after 30-70K miles of hard use.

This is the first car I've had that needed "only" 600 miles of break-in....me thinks that the forged internals are already set from the factory and this 600 miles is a way of getting the driver to take it easy in such a fast car.
Edit.

Last edited by Eric Lyublinsky; Aug 1, 2003 at 05:35 AM.
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Old Jul 31, 2003 | 05:52 AM
  #19  
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From: Long Island, NY
If the handbook says that I shoud break it in then that's what I am going to do. You can't go wrong by actually following instructiuons for once.

1,200 miles and no problems. I took it easy for the first 500 miles. Took it up to 4k and 5k maybe a handful of times during the next 250 miles and drove it regularly during the last 250 miles of the break-in period. I hit full boost maybe 2-3 times during the complete break-in period.
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Old Jul 31, 2003 | 09:49 AM
  #20  
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There is no way for the dealer to find out that you didnt break it in according to the manual and they cant void warrenties for running a car hard thats what we were meant to do in these cars
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Old Jul 31, 2003 | 10:10 AM
  #21  
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IMHO, I don't think either solution is 100% guaranteed to be the best way. I will say that my Z dynoed in the strong range for 350Zs and I followed the break-in procedure (under 4000rpms for 1200mi ) Also, no excess oil consumption. A good friend follows the break-in procedures strictly as well, and his cars have all dynoed very strongly for their given model and had no oil consumption issues.

So, until an Engine Designer can give me a good reason not to do so, I will continue to follow the manufacture's suggested procedures.

evil-

Actually, it depends on how much data they want the ECU to gather and store. I doubt the EVO ECU is set up to do this, but a manufacturer could have the ECU store the max RPM reached during the first 600 miles or even how often past a predetermined RPM limit the engine was revved. This can be stored in non-volatile (not erased by unplugging the battery) and retrieved at a later date. Also, if you don't follow the recommended break-in procedures and they can prove it, they very much can, and will, deny warranty claims that they can also prove are caused by this not being followed. Ask the M3 owners just how much data the ECU can gather.

That said, most of the concerns with break-in procedures is that you won't get the best performance out of the engine, or the engine will burn oil at a higher rate.

D
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Old Jul 31, 2003 | 10:39 AM
  #22  
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Originally posted by articfury
IMHO, I don't think either solution is 100% guaranteed to be the best way. I will say that my Z dynoed in the strong range for 350Zs and I followed the break-in procedure (under 4000rpms for 1200mi ) Also, no excess oil consumption. A good friend follows the break-in procedures strictly as well, and his cars have all dynoed very strongly for their given model and had no oil consumption issues.

So, until an Engine Designer can give me a good reason not to do so, I will continue to follow the manufacture's suggested procedures.

evil-

Actually, it depends on how much data they want the ECU to gather and store. I doubt the EVO ECU is set up to do this, but a manufacturer could have the ECU store the max RPM reached during the first 600 miles or even how often past a predetermined RPM limit the engine was revved. This can be stored in non-volatile (not erased by unplugging the battery) and retrieved at a later date. Also, if you don't follow the recommended break-in procedures and they can prove it, they very much can, and will, deny warranty claims that they can also prove are caused by this not being followed. Ask the M3 owners just how much data the ECU can gather.

That said, most of the concerns with break-in procedures is that you won't get the best performance out of the engine, or the engine will burn oil at a higher rate.

D
I have to agree with "articfury". I've built and drag-raced high hp motors for many years and the internal components between a factory stock motor vs a aftermarket race motor are completely different. So is the break in period. When I say "different", I also mean their application. My race motors were freshened up every other year and lasted, at most, 5k miles. The rings don't need seating because of the closer tolerances and such, so the only required "breaking in" is the valvetrain (30-45min at the initial start). I followed Mitsu's rule of "break in" to a tee and so far, no one has posted a faster 1/4 mile time/ mph than me (stock). Go figure? Just my 2c.
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