Megan test pipe bung location
Megan test pipe bung location
I installed a Megan downpipe and test pipe today. The Megan DP replaced my Buschur DP. The fit of everything was great. However, I'm concerned about the location of the wideband O2 bung location. Of the four ways to install the test pipe, this seemed to be the best one. But I don't like it. Where did everyone else put theirs?


I had mine that way as well, but I later took it off and screwed the o2 sensor into the bung on my cat-back pipe. I'm running a spark plug non fouler (CEL fix) with the o2 sensor, so for me it was extended really low.
You've got the test pipe clocked 180* off. As was previously mentioned, your at 4 o'clock whereas you should actually be at 10 o'clock. You don't want it down below 3 o'clock because of moisture accumulation.
Last edited by sparky; Mar 30, 2008 at 10:07 PM.
Wait... you said the DP was clocked 180* off. How can that be? There's only one way for the DP to be installed, right?
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You're probably right but I can't climb under mine just now to look. If it were mine I'd try rotating it 180* anyway. If there is in fact interference then I'd just plug that bung and relocate a new one either on the test pipe or up on the DP between 10'oclock and 2 o'clock.
Last edited by sparky; Mar 30, 2008 at 09:10 PM.
Unless I missed something but the Megan test pipe o2 bung location sucks, and there is not much you can do (rotation wise).
You have 2 choices if you dont have a bung on the cat-back pipe. Either have the o2 sensor sticking downward or have it hitting the driveshaft/under body.
Luckily for me my Tanabe cat-back has a bung welded that is basically leveled parallely to the under body/ground.
As of right now I ordered a new ebay resonated test pipe and will be puting on shortly. The Megan Racing test pipe currently installed I bought used and the flanges are warped causing a very noticable exhaust leak.
You have 2 choices if you dont have a bung on the cat-back pipe. Either have the o2 sensor sticking downward or have it hitting the driveshaft/under body.
Luckily for me my Tanabe cat-back has a bung welded that is basically leveled parallely to the under body/ground.
As of right now I ordered a new ebay resonated test pipe and will be puting on shortly. The Megan Racing test pipe currently installed I bought used and the flanges are warped causing a very noticable exhaust leak.
Just PMed the OP with:
Hi!
Just wondering why you traded in your Buschur DP for a Megan DP? I was just thinking about doing exactly the opposite and wanted to check your reasoning in case there was something I missed.
Also, regarding your thread I have my narroband in the Megan RTP near the stock location (by the cat-back, pointing up) and though it is near the drive shaft I don't really see it hitting it, and never hear it doing so. I did have an issue with that while there was an anti-foulder on it though.
...unfortunately I think I also have warped flanges causing an exhaust leak with the Megan pieces.
Just wondering why you traded in your Buschur DP for a Megan DP? I was just thinking about doing exactly the opposite and wanted to check your reasoning in case there was something I missed.
Also, regarding your thread I have my narroband in the Megan RTP near the stock location (by the cat-back, pointing up) and though it is near the drive shaft I don't really see it hitting it, and never hear it doing so. I did have an issue with that while there was an anti-foulder on it though.
...unfortunately I think I also have warped flanges causing an exhaust leak with the Megan pieces.
Another thing you can do is, on ebay there was this non fouler for sale that was angled. Sort of like an L . You can use that to angle the emmisions o2 sensor up.
I have that non fouler but didnt put it on the test pipe yet but instead its on the cat-back section. For some reason I cant get the plug off the bung on the test pipe. Seems like threads werent the same or the heat did something. I unscrewed it about half way but then the breaker bar broke. I was even using a pipe for more leverage. That thing is on there tight!
I have that non fouler but didnt put it on the test pipe yet but instead its on the cat-back section. For some reason I cant get the plug off the bung on the test pipe. Seems like threads werent the same or the heat did something. I unscrewed it about half way but then the breaker bar broke. I was even using a pipe for more leverage. That thing is on there tight!
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I just installed my megan test pipe and it definitely hit the drive shaft, so I had to install like autoxer did above.
My question is how can i prevent moisture accumulation in this spot, also why the hell would megan install the bung there?
If I do have to move it to my catback is that an ok spot? My catback does have a bung but it seems to me everyone installs there's in the test pipe or dp.
Any help would be appreciated.
My question is how can i prevent moisture accumulation in this spot, also why the hell would megan install the bung there?
If I do have to move it to my catback is that an ok spot? My catback does have a bung but it seems to me everyone installs there's in the test pipe or dp.
Any help would be appreciated.
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