The early 4g63 engines made from 89-92.5 commonly referred to as "6 bolt engines" had a nitrided crank from factory. These engines are commonly known to not have a crank walk problem. Imagine that...

I'm interested in your assertion here. Cutting a crank out of billet material does not make it harder. Billet material is used for other reasons, but if you cut a crankshaft out of a billet of steel that was already that hard, you'd have a pretty brittle crank and a heck of a time doing the machining.

Nitride treatment is chemical case hardening of the outer layer of the bearing surface. I'd be surprised if your client had a billet crank that, untreated, was harder than the case hardening layer formed by nitriding, but I sure like to learn, so if there's more to this story, please explain.

To the original poster:

Change the engine. It's the most guaranteed way of getting rid of the problem.

Just removed the oilpan and measured the freeplay. It was 0.047 inc (1.2mm) !

How i know that crank is useless? Is the only way to put new bearings and measure it again?

But whit my luck the new used engine has the same problem.

What i have understood Evo 5 -> they don't share crank walk problem.

Which Evo engine's can i use and are they bolt on? Or are there other Mitsubishi model's which i can take the engine?

I wish you would listen to my posts. My first one gave you good advice. even when you have minor crankwalk at .015 the crank will be toast. I have seen new bearings installed that brought them in spec .004, but as stated it will wear back out almost immediately. This is because the two surfaces wear IE crank AND bearing. You cant put a new bearing on a worn crank. Thats why it wears out again quickly.

Your original post stated that you here noises when you push the clutch pedal. That noise comes from the crank moving so much it pushes on the rods . the noise you here is the pistons being pushes sideways as they turn. thats why I told you from the beginning that you need a new crank. installing new bearings is a complete waste of time.

The reason you have the freeplay that you measured is that the crank is damaged on the SIDE of the main journal throw, like this:

|
|
|<------ damage
|______________|
(bearing rides here)

Take a look at your crank and you'll see the damage on the side -- replacing the bearings will not fix this. If it were a valuable antique limited production crank, they'd try to weld in the damage and then regrind the side face of the journal, but the grinding process is very difficult because of its location and the physical geometry of the grinding machines, which are made to grind the horizontal surfaces, not the vertical sides.

Often the block is also damaged in that area as well. That is why you will need at least a different undamaged crank, and maybe a block as well.

In 1998/99 Mitsu changed the thrust bearing to a 3 piece unit. This must have been done for a reason! In fact since this change I have seen very very few crank walk issues. If you are goiong to replace your motor make sure it is replaced with on that has the new thrust bearing design!!!! Dont waste your time on the older 2 piece thrust bearing motors.

with every engine known to man kind billions were built with the 2 piece main/thrust bearing and never had crank walk issues so I will never believe the bearing design was ever the issue. But almost all crank/thrust failures are do to machining and oil failure. The thrust is a very low volume low preasure oiling point in the engine to begin with and when you add a failing oil pump, lack of maintanance, poor grade oil, heat, and heavy clutch in traffic it will fail in good time.

Any 5-8 engine will fit.

Crankwalk on IVs is very common. It is not common on the 5 and up due to design changes, so you are unlikely to gey a used walked engine. The newer the engine, the better the likely condition, so try to get one from an 8.

I believe it it caused my poor engineering by Mitsubishi . I am from Europe so it is litle bit big distance for your shop. Thanks anyway. But please give us all information about the crankwalk. I believe i am not going to be the last one who is going to deal with this problem.

Am i? Has your crank walked yet ?

I assume that crank isin't same in Evo 5-8 than in Evo 4?

What i have learned wiring isin't same in Evo 4 and Evo 5, but is all "hardware" same?

We've shipped lots of engines overseas, no big deal

I'm glad I was into Honda's before and not DSM's. Crankwalk sounds like a *****.