I have searched a while and haven't found the answer to my question.

If I were to go with hks 272 cams, do the valve springs, retainers, and lifters need to be replaced or will the stock ones work with this set up? Of course replacing them with higher performance parts is always the better thing to do, but I want to wait until I dig into the rest of the motor to do that.

Also, is the stock fuel system plus a walbro 255 fuel pump capable of supporting these cams?

Do people usually replace the timing belt, water pump and balance shaft belt at the same time?

My current setup is: 2005 evo 8
-3'' megan downpipe and test pipie
-3'' helix catback
- walbro 255 fuel pump
- forge mbc set at 22.5 psi
- drop in k&n filter
- ams licp (not installed yet)
- 4 WHEEL SLIDE TUNED

Thanks,

Tyler

Yes on the timing belt and yes on the walbro. The others im not too sure.

Some companies require you to upgrade the valvetrain. Honestly there are more then enough people with 280 cams with stock everything depending on the how aggressive the setup is GSC Says you MUST upgrade to atleast upgraded single springs. Mellon uses 280 hks with stock valvetrain! No you do not HAVE to change your timing belt when doing cams but depending on your mileage you may want to.

How many miles on your car? If it's under 30,000 you are probably fine with your timing belt. You could probably go as far as 50,000 miles and be fine. You should change it as a part of regular maintenance at 60,000 so the closer you are to that point the better it would be to change it. The rest of the stock parts are fine (springs, retainers, lifters). The single walbro will supply plenty of fuel.

depending on the recommendation of the cams. HKS 272 dont need upgraded valve train, while GSC S2 requires them. its all about how high you are going to be revving the car also. recommended replacement of the timing belt is 60k. If you are anywhere near that, you might as well. stock injectors will hold up fine with the walbro pump. and upgraded lifters are not needed. I would not replace them unless you have a lazy lifter(s). Just make sure you do bleed them. it doesnt take that long and is better then noise and/bent valves. good luck. and post up or pm if you need more help

Thank you for the quick responses! The car has 27,000 miles on it. The reason I was asking about the maintenance is that I have owned 2 dsms with the 4g63, and I learned that if you have the opportunity to change something like a timing belt or water pump, you should usually do it.

Ok, thats nice to know many people are using the 272's with a stock valve train. I was planning on keeping the revs to the 7200-7400 range.

Where do people make peak power with a similar set up as mine but with the cams?

This info has definately helped me to make my decision of going with the cams or going with meth. The cam route appears to be more reliable.

well, depending on the cams really they will make power in different places. The last two issues of Turbo magazine have done cam reviews on the EVO(non mivec motors) I drove a full bolt on 05 evo with hks 272 and stock turbo. it had good mid and high end. didnt feel like it had as much as my IX down low but thats also the mivec. Check out GSC S1 cams also, they are pretty solid. peteyturbo here on the boards has broke into 11s with his 05 MR with gsc cams also. hope that helps

ya man I'm about to install my cossy cams and they recomend it also I think hks are the only cams that u don't have to upgrade the springs and retainers unless u go up to 280's I think

the car doesnt need a timing belt to be replaced at 27k...springs are a smart idea to do if your doing cams...i went with the springs brent rau runs..the kiggly springs (behive)..i highly reccomend them......but not needed with the hks cams......i didnt start floating valves with gsc280s until i was reving to 9500...do the head studs tho.

HKS 272s can be used with stock valvetrain.

Fuel pump has nothing to do with camshafts, but if you have already started to mod your car, and you have not installed one, you might as well do one now.

If you are doing cams, and you are doing them the "hard way" by completely removing the belt and timing cover, you probably should go ahead and do:

New timing belt
Balance Shaft Belt
Timing belt tensioner and idler pullies
Timing Belt Hydraulic tensioner
Balance Shaft tensioner pulley
Water pump
Camshaft seals
Valve Cover Gasket

I didn't even think about the headstuds. Good suggestion! Again, I might not get into that until I build the motor.

Talontuner: Cams let in more air and thus will require more fuel. That is why I was concerned with the fuel system. I do have a walbro already on the car. Also, all of that maintenance is probably a bit overkill considering how new the car is.

Thanks everyone. I will probably go with the hks 272's and leave the stock valvetrain for the time being.

Right, but every single mod you do (or worthwhile engine mod that really performs) should be followed with a tune anyhow. I was just stating that a PUMP itself isn't nessisary for to add more fuel, a tune will accomplish that. However with your level of modification you should have a pump already, so thats besides the point and I think we have already established that fact.

Headstuds are a no no to do unless you pull the head off completely. I know alot of people do them one at a time, with the head still attached to the block, but that is the wrong way to do it. Your stock headbolts are plenty strong enough to hold more than 30+lbs of boost, and headgaskets and headstuds shouldn't be crutches for a crappy tune anyhow. Save them for when you remove the head or the engine, and if it isn't broke, don't try to fix it.

Yes I remember reading about people doing this when I had my dsms. I never thought it was a good idea to do the head studs without pulling the head off. Doing it the right way costs more money and if it isn't necessary I won't do it yet. I have heard this before about the stock headbolts. I wonder why people replace them if the stock ones are better?

Yes I would have the car retuned. I use 4wheelside, that guys is awesome.

One last question. What $ amount am I looking at here to buy the cams, necessary hardware and parts and to have someone install it for me?

Thank you everyone for your responses. That has helped me a lot.

I wouldnt say the headbolts are better, but the question is how much better are the ARPs to justify removing the head and stock bolts when they have been known to handle 30+lbs of boost? If the head is coming off anyway, go for it. Some people think the 1989-5/1992 6 bolt 4G63 headbolts are stronger than the ARPs, and this may be true. People should just realize how good ALL of the stock stuff is and how much power it will withstand if you keep detonation away.

I do my own work, but from what I understand a timing belt job is around $500, so seeing that it's a bit more work than that, and your probably talking about $750-850 in parts, mabey a $1500 job total? Mabey consider doing it yourself.

me and about 10 of my friends have installed headstuds with them on the car, no issues whatsoever.

You dont need valvetrain upgrade for HKS cams but it never hurts.