Rebuild Head, now problems.. Need your help badly.
#1
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Rebuild Head, now problems.. Need your help badly.
I just got my car done after my oil pump got a piece of debris and stalled the whole engine, ripped teeth off the belt so I had to get the head rebuilt because valves smacked the piston. It's all finished now and my car vibrates a ton, has poor throttle response (to the point where if i give it gas to quickly at idle it dies), has no power (it seems), and wont hold boost and begins to stutter when boosting. It will boost up to about 10 psi then stutter badly and boost will fluctuate a lot. I have no clue what's going on. It seems like my engine even sounds different, more vibrations and not as crisp as it was before everything happened. My mechanic has no clue as well. I really need some help with this, I live in alaska and have no tuning shops around. Thanks.
This is what the car has on it;
Power Related:
HKS GT3037 Turbo kit set up on lowboost level, 22psi making 417awhp, 333tq on 92 octane
AEM Standalone tuned by tuning technologies
AEM wideband
Defi Boost guage
HKS 3" down pipe, testpipe, 20th ann hi-ann Hi-power exhaust
Fynetune custom shortram intake
Ferrera Valves and retainers
Ported and polished head
HKS 280 Cams
ARP Headstuds
HKS Adj cam gears, HKS kevlar Timing belt
HKS T-0 turbo Timer
HKS Twin Power Dli II
HKS R-Type FMIC
HKS SSQV V2/hardpipe BOV
Snow Performance Meth Kit w/ light and 150 psi pump
Greddy 1020cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
ACT Six puck springless clutch
HKS EVC Limited Ed. Boost controller.
This is what the car has on it;
Power Related:
HKS GT3037 Turbo kit set up on lowboost level, 22psi making 417awhp, 333tq on 92 octane
AEM Standalone tuned by tuning technologies
AEM wideband
Defi Boost guage
HKS 3" down pipe, testpipe, 20th ann hi-ann Hi-power exhaust
Fynetune custom shortram intake
Ferrera Valves and retainers
Ported and polished head
HKS 280 Cams
ARP Headstuds
HKS Adj cam gears, HKS kevlar Timing belt
HKS T-0 turbo Timer
HKS Twin Power Dli II
HKS R-Type FMIC
HKS SSQV V2/hardpipe BOV
Snow Performance Meth Kit w/ light and 150 psi pump
Greddy 1020cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
ACT Six puck springless clutch
HKS EVC Limited Ed. Boost controller.
#2
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Check the mechanical timing of the crank, cams, balance shaft, and oil pump gear. It sounds like someone screwed up on setting the mechanical timing when reassembling the motor.
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Ah, he said everything "timing" wise was good. I'm not sure though, I thought the same thing. I have HKS gears on there, he may have gotten confused. Should I try another mechanic? Maybe one of the cam adjustments got screwed up when the engine stopped so harshly when the head went bad. More advice..
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i thought it was pretty easy to get the balance shafts 180 degs. out. i haven't had to do it, but i know you have to push a bar into the block through an access hole to make sure the counterweight lobe is in the correct position. it's in the manual on what exactly to do.
there really isn't much to go wrong with the cams themselves as long as the gears are on and the dowels on the cams are good and fitting into the gears. i would probably just set them at zero for now just to make sure they aren't adding to the problem.
sure sounds like timing though. maybe there's enough racket going on to give false knock but like flying evo 2 said, it pretty much has to be timing set wrong from the get go
there really isn't much to go wrong with the cams themselves as long as the gears are on and the dowels on the cams are good and fitting into the gears. i would probably just set them at zero for now just to make sure they aren't adding to the problem.
sure sounds like timing though. maybe there's enough racket going on to give false knock but like flying evo 2 said, it pretty much has to be timing set wrong from the get go
#6
If the balancer shafts vibrate badly to about 3000RPM then it starts to ease up then its balancer shaft issues. However, engine stuttering and not firing as the boost/rpm increase indicates timing related issue. Maybe he did not isntall the timing crank plate on well or positioned the timing sensor too far back....or just missed a tooth on one of the the cams...
Hard to say but id get the timing re-evaluated first and thereafter look at ignition system/ECU settings. If the balancer shaft is out 180 deg....it vibrates a lot at idle and it feels almost as if 1 cyl is not firing....but it does not limit your ability to make boost or increase RPM in any way!
Hard to say but id get the timing re-evaluated first and thereafter look at ignition system/ECU settings. If the balancer shaft is out 180 deg....it vibrates a lot at idle and it feels almost as if 1 cyl is not firing....but it does not limit your ability to make boost or increase RPM in any way!
Last edited by popadel; May 20, 2008 at 03:50 AM.
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#8
I agree with everyone else that it probably isn't mechanically timed right. If it is then something else to check into would be whether any material was taken off your head at the machine shop. IF your adjustable cam gears are set in a funky position coupled with a head shave, then you could be pretty far off on cam timing.
Last edited by mike 99gsx; May 20, 2008 at 05:01 PM.
#9
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bump, thank you guys for your advice. any more thoughts? How should I go about timing my car. Sorry for my ignorance, this will be my first time checking/ setting time on a vehicle. Thanks.
Last edited by jutilat; May 20, 2008 at 11:49 AM.
#13
Also check to see that plate on the front of the engine for the crank angle sensor isn't installed 180 degrees out of phase. A car with that issue will start & run but have symptoms like you are describing.
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Erioshi: Oh, my mechanic mentioned something about that sensor possibly being in the wrong position then refuted that because he thought it wouldn't run. Hmmm. i'll have to flip the sensor and see if it improves. thanks man.
And the people at TT are really good, they've been very helpful in the past.
And the people at TT are really good, they've been very helpful in the past.