ETS Intake / 3.5" FMIC / LICP / UICP / Minibattery Kit
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 112
From: Midwest USA
ETS Intake / 3.5" FMIC / LICP / UICP / Minibattery Kit
So on thursday my ETS stuff is set to arrive:
3.5" intercooler
LICP & UICP
Intake
Short battery kit
Any tips? I know I need a tune - I already have an appointment for june (ams)
Should I buy an MBC? (if so which)
I don't want to worry about boost flutter at partial throttle - is there anything to worry about.
I want things to go smooth.
3.5" intercooler
LICP & UICP
Intake
Short battery kit
Any tips? I know I need a tune - I already have an appointment for june (ams)
Should I buy an MBC? (if so which)
I don't want to worry about boost flutter at partial throttle - is there anything to worry about.
I want things to go smooth.
Have you ever taken off the front bumper before? If not I suggest putting the front of the car on car jacks. Pop all the plastic screws out of the undertray except the ones holding it to the front bumper. This makes it easier to take off and put back on IMO. Comes off as one piece and goes on as one piece.
Other then that its pretty straight forward. I would triple check your licp before putting everything back on. Thats the only pipe that you don't want coming off when your nowhere near home because its not fun/easy to take your front bumper off when your in the middle of nowhere.
Also when you get it all together, do a couple full boost pulls by your house in 3rd gear where you hit full boost. At least if something is loose and comes off your close to your home. Bring a 10mm (or 12mm) socket wrench with you so if you find the loose pipe if one pops off you can put it back on right there.
First run I did the coupler that makes the 90 degree turn onto the throttle body came off to where it would die before it made any boost, but still enough to limp it a hundred feet to my house.
Also because of the intake your idle might be a little sparatic where it will drop to like 400 then climb back up to 850 or whatever. Don't worry it won't stall out. Just get your idle raised a hair. I got mine upped to 1k and it idles fine although for some reason I have throttle hang now ever since I upped the idle. Going to drop it back down to stock and see what happens. And when you put the new ETS fmic on your boost should drop slightly. I would get a MBC at AMS.
Good luck you'll be extremely happy with the ETS fitment and quality. All my stuff went on flawlessly and fixed my boost leak that the crappy stock pipes had.
Other then that its pretty straight forward. I would triple check your licp before putting everything back on. Thats the only pipe that you don't want coming off when your nowhere near home because its not fun/easy to take your front bumper off when your in the middle of nowhere.
Also when you get it all together, do a couple full boost pulls by your house in 3rd gear where you hit full boost. At least if something is loose and comes off your close to your home. Bring a 10mm (or 12mm) socket wrench with you so if you find the loose pipe if one pops off you can put it back on right there.
First run I did the coupler that makes the 90 degree turn onto the throttle body came off to where it would die before it made any boost, but still enough to limp it a hundred feet to my house.
Also because of the intake your idle might be a little sparatic where it will drop to like 400 then climb back up to 850 or whatever. Don't worry it won't stall out. Just get your idle raised a hair. I got mine upped to 1k and it idles fine although for some reason I have throttle hang now ever since I upped the idle. Going to drop it back down to stock and see what happens. And when you put the new ETS fmic on your boost should drop slightly. I would get a MBC at AMS.
Good luck you'll be extremely happy with the ETS fitment and quality. All my stuff went on flawlessly and fixed my boost leak that the crappy stock pipes had.
Last edited by damstr; May 27, 2008 at 06:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 112
From: Midwest USA
Have you ever taken off the front bumper before? If not I suggest putting the front of the car on car jacks. Pop all the plastic screws out of the undertray except the ones holding it to the front bumper. This makes it easier to take off and put back on IMO. Comes off as one piece and goes on as one piece.
Other then that its pretty straight forward. I would triple check your licp before putting everything back on. Thats the only pipe that you don't want coming off when your nowhere near home because its not fun/easy to take your front bumper off when your in the middle of nowhere.
Also when you get it all together, do a couple full boost pulls by your house in 3rd gear where you hit full boost. At least if something is loose and comes off your close to your home. Bring a 10mm (or 12mm) socket wrench with you so if you find the loose pipe if one pops off you can put it back on right there.
First run I did the coupler that makes the 90 degree turn onto the throttle body came off to where it would die before it made any boost, but still enough to limp it a hundred feet to my house.
Good luck you'll be extremely happy with the ETS fitment and quality. All my stuff went on flawlessly and fixed my boost leak that the ****tay stock pipes had.
Other then that its pretty straight forward. I would triple check your licp before putting everything back on. Thats the only pipe that you don't want coming off when your nowhere near home because its not fun/easy to take your front bumper off when your in the middle of nowhere.
Also when you get it all together, do a couple full boost pulls by your house in 3rd gear where you hit full boost. At least if something is loose and comes off your close to your home. Bring a 10mm (or 12mm) socket wrench with you so if you find the loose pipe if one pops off you can put it back on right there.
First run I did the coupler that makes the 90 degree turn onto the throttle body came off to where it would die before it made any boost, but still enough to limp it a hundred feet to my house.
Good luck you'll be extremely happy with the ETS fitment and quality. All my stuff went on flawlessly and fixed my boost leak that the ****tay stock pipes had.
Yes I removed the bumper a few times - I have had it off when I HID'ed and LED'ed my headlights and foglights. What about these "t-clamps" i keep reading about.
I am worried about boost flutter.
Have you ever taken off the front bumper before? If not I suggest putting the front of the car on car jacks. Pop all the plastic screws out of the undertray except the ones holding it to the front bumper. This makes it easier to take off and put back on IMO. Comes off as one piece and goes on as one piece.
Other then that its pretty straight forward. I would triple check your licp before putting everything back on. Thats the only pipe that you don't want coming off when your nowhere near home because its not fun/easy to take your front bumper off when your in the middle of nowhere.
Also when you get it all together, do a couple full boost pulls by your house in 3rd gear where you hit full boost. At least if something is loose and comes off your close to your home. Bring a 10mm (or 12mm) socket wrench with you so if you find the loose pipe if one pops off you can put it back on right there.
First run I did the coupler that makes the 90 degree turn onto the throttle body came off to where it would die before it made any boost, but still enough to limp it a hundred feet to my house.
Also because of the intake your idle might be a little sparatic where it will drop to like 400 then climb back up to 850 or whatever. Don't worry it won't stall out. Just get your idle raised a hair. I got mine upped to 1k and it idles fine although for some reason I have throttle hang now ever since I upped the idle. Going to drop it back down to stock and see what happens. And when you put the new ETS fmic on your boost should drop slightly. I would get a MBC at AMS.
Good luck you'll be extremely happy with the ETS fitment and quality. All my stuff went on flawlessly and fixed my boost leak that the crappy stock pipes had.
Other then that its pretty straight forward. I would triple check your licp before putting everything back on. Thats the only pipe that you don't want coming off when your nowhere near home because its not fun/easy to take your front bumper off when your in the middle of nowhere.
Also when you get it all together, do a couple full boost pulls by your house in 3rd gear where you hit full boost. At least if something is loose and comes off your close to your home. Bring a 10mm (or 12mm) socket wrench with you so if you find the loose pipe if one pops off you can put it back on right there.
First run I did the coupler that makes the 90 degree turn onto the throttle body came off to where it would die before it made any boost, but still enough to limp it a hundred feet to my house.
Also because of the intake your idle might be a little sparatic where it will drop to like 400 then climb back up to 850 or whatever. Don't worry it won't stall out. Just get your idle raised a hair. I got mine upped to 1k and it idles fine although for some reason I have throttle hang now ever since I upped the idle. Going to drop it back down to stock and see what happens. And when you put the new ETS fmic on your boost should drop slightly. I would get a MBC at AMS.
Good luck you'll be extremely happy with the ETS fitment and quality. All my stuff went on flawlessly and fixed my boost leak that the crappy stock pipes had.
I just did the 4 inch intercooler installation with the small battery kit and I already had the intake. If you have any questions about it dont hesitate to shoot me a pm or e-mail and also the guys at ETS Tom and Mike are awesome guys and are willing to help you with any questions you may have.
I just did the 4 inch intercooler installation with the small battery kit and I already had the intake. If you have any questions about it dont hesitate to shoot me a pm or e-mail and also the guys at ETS Tom and Mike are awesome guys and are willing to help you with any questions you may have.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 112
From: Midwest USA
Since you've already had the bumper off, the rest will be easy for you as it is all just basically remove and replace without much ado 
If you run into any snags today/tomorrow during the install just give me a shout!
The 4" intercooler can typically be fit with 3/16" washers on each bumper beam stud (which surprisingly doesn't effect bumper cover installation) but with how tight that is with the massive 4" intercooler if the combination of Mitsu's .030" tolerance on their body work and our .010" tolerance on parts, it's possible that some trimming comes into play. The 3.5" is as big as we advertise to require no trimming for that reason, as a true bolt-on
Tom
If you run into any snags today/tomorrow during the install just give me a shout! The 4" intercooler can typically be fit with 3/16" washers on each bumper beam stud (which surprisingly doesn't effect bumper cover installation) but with how tight that is with the massive 4" intercooler if the combination of Mitsu's .030" tolerance on their body work and our .010" tolerance on parts, it's possible that some trimming comes into play. The 3.5" is as big as we advertise to require no trimming for that reason, as a true bolt-on
Tom
Since you've already had the bumper off, the rest will be easy for you as it is all just basically remove and replace without much ado If you run into any snags today/tomorrow during the install just give me a shout!
The 4" intercooler can typically be fit with 3/16" washers on each bumper beam stud (which surprisingly doesn't effect bumper cover installation) but with how tight that is with the massive 4" intercooler if the combination of Mitsu's .030" tolerance on their body work and our .010" tolerance on parts, it's possible that some trimming comes into play. The 3.5" is as big as we advertise to require no trimming for that reason, as a true bolt-on
Tom
If you run into any snags today/tomorrow during the install just give me a shout! The 4" intercooler can typically be fit with 3/16" washers on each bumper beam stud (which surprisingly doesn't effect bumper cover installation) but with how tight that is with the massive 4" intercooler if the combination of Mitsu's .030" tolerance on their body work and our .010" tolerance on parts, it's possible that some trimming comes into play. The 3.5" is as big as we advertise to require no trimming for that reason, as a true bolt-on
Tom