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Mistake not doing O2 housing with fp green

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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 08:03 AM
  #16  
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From: local area man
Originally Posted by bank277
Looks like I'm looking at more work then I really want to get into. What's the price range for this to be done at a shop?
It sounds like more of a daunting task than it actually is. Provided you have good tools and are patient it shouldn't be that bad.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 08:05 AM
  #17  
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Ya, it's like a 3 hour job, but maybe 5-6 if you haven't done it before. Don't be afraid, get dirty, its not that bad. When you're done you can say you did it yourself
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 08:06 AM
  #18  
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From: Thornton CO
If you don't already have the megan 02, have you checked out that new open dump 02 from evopowermods? Costs a little more but you might see some better gains vs the megan
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #19  
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I've been out in the garage taking a good look at it and it doesnt look to bad. I'm going to go ahead and do it my self. Thanks for the help.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:46 AM
  #20  
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x54765408 on the DYI and get the O2 housing. The stock one is actually *harder* (at least IMHO) to put on than the aftermarket ones. If you have the turbo off of the car anyway I seriously recommend putting on the O2 housing before you put the turbo back in. Just remember, lots and lots of high temp anti-seize on all bolts, especially anything exhaust related!
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #21  
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what do you guys think bout the megan racing o2 housing vs porting the stock one?? cause i plan on doing the same thing and a megan manifold. let me know what you think
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 09:56 AM
  #22  
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If you don't change the 02 housing you might get boost creep. If your not changing the turbo, it is kinda alotta work for how little it helped me.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 12:48 PM
  #23  
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From: ft lauderdale
put the 02 dump on the green. they really do work, i just cant decide if i like the sound yet. its loud, but it makes power.

either way, now would be the best time to do the o2 housing while the green is off the car.
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 01:48 PM
  #24  
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From: Flyover country.
Originally Posted by YzBrad99
If you don't change the 02 housing you might get boost creep. If your not changing the turbo, it is kinda alotta work for how little it helped me.
I think you're trying to say you might get boost creep with some aftermarket O2 housings. No one gets boost creep with the stock housing.
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 12:53 PM
  #25  
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do I need to drain engine oil before changing the turbo?
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 09:49 PM
  #26  
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From: Boston, MA
Originally Posted by mplspilot
I think you're trying to say you might get boost creep with some aftermarket O2 housings. No one gets boost creep with the stock housing.
what brands are known for boost creep? is there a solution for creep?
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 07:36 PM
  #27  
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Turbo is out. Greens going in tomorrow. Everything went smooth except I nicked the a/c condenser. There is a very very slow leak. I'm not sure if I should take it out and have it welded or Jb weld it. It's such a slow leak that jb weld should do the job. Anyone have experience with using it on a condenser?
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 05:11 AM
  #28  
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From: Secret Tweaker Pad
Originally Posted by bank277
Turbo is out. Greens going in tomorrow. Everything went smooth except I nicked the a/c condenser. There is a very very slow leak. I'm not sure if I should take it out and have it welded or Jb weld it. It's such a slow leak that jb weld should do the job. Anyone have experience with using it on a condenser?
Get it welded. Don't half a$$ it with JB Weld. Welding is a better permanent solution.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TeStUdO
Get it welded. Don't half a$$ it with JB Weld. Welding is a better permanent solution.
Already took it in to get welded. Wasn't much work to get it out since I already had radiator out so I figured I'd do it right.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 07:09 AM
  #30  
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From: Minneapolis
Cover it with cardboard next time! Sorry I left that out of my DIY 'instructions'

Nice work, feels good to get the hands dirty, eh?

NOW, use NEW copper washers on any banjo bolts you re-install, and be *careful* not to snap them, they break pretty easily! Wayyy less torque than everything else you've touched!
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