Like this....

Grabbed these at lunch. These will be good for .064" clearance. AMS confirmed they add washers and bend.

 

So I worked everything out last night. First I installed with just the washers. But the squirters were still closer than I wanted. So I did some bending as well.

- clamped the squirter in a vise and slightly bent it up with needle nose pliers.

- Then I bent the tip back with some pliers. If I didn't do this the tip was too close to the piston pin boss area in the center of the piston.

Stock


Bent


I then re-installed with the bent squirters and the washers and checked clearance. I had bent one of the squirters too much and it hitting the crank counter weight. So I had to mellow the bend. It's important to check everything!

Here's a picture of the final deal.



Thanks for the input guys!

 

I know this threat is old , but this just happened to me with my JE pistons, I just bend the squiter. I'm runnin 2.0 standard size bottom end.

 

just called AMS they said evo 8 2.3 to bend it!

 

Anyone tried to block them on 2.3L 650whp evo ? Will it have enough oil in the cylinder walls to not make scars ?

 

When I did my 2.4 I added the squirters. I had to tweak them to the left (center of piston) to clear the crank and piston skirt. It didnt break the braze and nothing hits. No problems after making 650hp.

 

Can squirters be installed after the crank, rods, etc are in?

 

Since the 2.4L block doesnt have a hole for oil squiters, where do u install them at?
And also does it really need oil squiter in a 4g64 block?

I want to install them on my 4g64 block but i just dont done where to do it at. Can someone send me some picture of exactly where to put them and where to drill a hole in the block???

Thanks

 

For you 2.3 guys I recently finished my build with 10.5 weisco pistons, manley I beam rods and manley 100mm crank.

I installed all the squirters before installing the rotating assembly.

And then rotated the crank and saw what hit, then used a long skinny pry bar to slightly bend the squirters out of the way.

I'm at 1200 miles or so with no issues, i even pulled the pan because I was worried about them hitting and falling off. No issues thus far.

 

2.4 block has to be drilled/tapped for these squirters.

 

I also hope you won't have any problem. But it is that exact procedure that most people don't want to do. You are prying on a hard tube that is "soldered" on to a nut.

 

The amount of tweaking is very small, maybe a 1/4 inch at most. I do soldering/brazing everyday. You can easily see if a crack forms or if the brazing begins to loose strength.

Nothing to worry about

 

Good info

 

If the problem is them being too close to the piston why just not cut a little bit of the tip, that would give you the clearance that you want.

 

Any pic on where to tap on a 2.4 built block?

Anyone know what is a good piston that would give me a 9.0:1 - 9.5:1 compression with .20 over on a 4g64/4g63 built motor.
Im currently bought a manley turbo tuff 156mm i-beam long rod with 100mm stock 4g64 crank.
I looking for some piston that would be great on both pumpgas and e85.

If anyone can suggest for me then can you please give me some parts number for it tooo!!!

Thanks