zero problems with fluidampr here, 10k on my built motor, 9200 with the fluidampr, obvious decrease in vibration in the car (big cams and no balance shafts) after install. I would buy it again in a heartbeat.

 

lol...

 

Installed the ATI on my race car and had to make 4 trips to Checkers to find the right serp belt to get it to fit. What a pain in the ***. That and I had to locktite the allen screws to the drive pully because they kept working their way loose.

Never noticed any difference either but V8 drag racers swear by them.

Switched to a fluidamper last spring and been running it ever since.

 

Whew, I'm glad I got my Fluidampr when I did, and yes I have one of the older generation ones....

 

I have a fluidampr (aluminum) and I could tell quite a difference with a stock bottom end.

 

Is there any benefit using the fluid if you have the balance shafts in? Could this fluid help with higher than normal revs 8K-9K?

 

until you have one, its hard to explain the difference. i have a stock bottom end and noticed it in the higher rev range. i also have the balance shafts in as well...

i have the aluminum one which is 1 lb heavier than stock. i dont have the weight of the steel fluidampr to compare. i just used my factory one and the alum fluidampr one...

 

I am glad I put this on here, there was little to no information on the ATI Damper, well at least now people are warned.

 

I'm going to figure out how to make the ATI damper work if there is a problem. I'm using one on my 4G64 MIVEC build and will post the results.

 

Have one on my car for 4 years now without a problem.

 

I have been manufacturing lightened pulleys for a few years and can’t say that the harmonic dampening is of much use. I’ve tested these on my dyno and at high rpm the lighter the pulley the easier it is on the engine. I also don’t believe in changing the ratio of these from OEM.

Best results always come from the lightest possible pulleys machined from a piece of billet aluminum.

Subaru’s need them a lot ore than Evos which already have a fairly light pulley. The scoob one is like a brick!

PS – Mike – the smaller the pulley the faster it spins on acillaries, the larger the slower but on the crank your correct - the larger the faster.

 

I noticed there are a lot of users of after market dampers in this thread, so I thought of asking the question here.

Does this/would one of these really make a noticeable difference on my motor that I could feel:

9.7:1 CR
No Balance Shafts (Race Front Shaft)
Knife Edged Crank
S2 Cams & Full Built Head
Tilton Clutch (Lots Less Rotating Mass)
Entire rotating assembly spun balanced

My motor now because of all the rotating mass taken out vibrates pretty good at idle (Lumpiness from the cams). Once over 2500 RPM it smooths out quite a bit. (It was built for High RPM use)

I would be curious about one of these on my motor, to see if it made a difference that I could actually feel driving the car.

 

Maybe i am crazy but if the crank pulley is what drives the accessories like alternator and you dont change the alternator pulley size, then the larger Pulley on the crank will overdrive the alternator pulley.. right??

Mike

 

Agree with Mike here due to the longer belt/larger pulley moving smaller pulleys more from larger diameter of lower pulley. redundant I know but maybe point is clear.

If ati is press fit and not perfectly aligned this could cause belts to get thrown also.

 

Exactly.