Intake pipe = boost creep
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Intake pipe = boost creep
Well I traded a guy a exhaust manifold I had laying around for a metal intake pipe
Holy Hell My boost is creeping very bad. I spike around 23-25 creeps to 30+. I have a MBC (hallman pro), FP HP wastegate. epm o2 dump. Only thing I changed though is the intake pipe.
Any suggestions on how to combat this???
Holy Hell My boost is creeping very bad. I spike around 23-25 creeps to 30+. I have a MBC (hallman pro), FP HP wastegate. epm o2 dump. Only thing I changed though is the intake pipe.
Any suggestions on how to combat this???
Why would an intake pipe affect boost creep??
If you're creeping, you need to fix your post-wastegate area. Port your wastegate (if your internal gated), get a better flowing / angled manifold if your externally gated. FP Red is internal I assume, so yank it off, and port out the area around the flapper. That's what we do in the Subaru world and it stops creeping dead in its tracks.
You may also want to check that your vacuum lines are fine, could it be that you forgot to hook up a line, and now the WGA isn't opening?
edit: I re-read and you have the epm dump, so you could definitely tell if your wastegate is opening, heh. Troubleshoot it. Put your previous intake back on and see if it stops.
If you're creeping, you need to fix your post-wastegate area. Port your wastegate (if your internal gated), get a better flowing / angled manifold if your externally gated. FP Red is internal I assume, so yank it off, and port out the area around the flapper. That's what we do in the Subaru world and it stops creeping dead in its tracks.
You may also want to check that your vacuum lines are fine, could it be that you forgot to hook up a line, and now the WGA isn't opening?
edit: I re-read and you have the epm dump, so you could definitely tell if your wastegate is opening, heh. Troubleshoot it. Put your previous intake back on and see if it stops.
There is something about your Evo's particular boost control situation that is really curious. You are experiencing boost creep issues now, but when you were getting it tuned and dynoed you noted severe boost taper problems. So, your car is AC/DC. Freaky, huh? One minute it's creeping while in the next instant it is tapering. Something merits further investigation and analysis.
Last edited by sparky; Feb 1, 2009 at 06:45 PM.
Did you have FP do the full porting job on your Red turbo? I think that zero WG preload and the notoriously spikey FP HD actuator are strange bedfellows.
To try to shake things up a bit, I would attempt the opposite of the boost control setup that you are currently running. I myself prefer shortening the actuator rod(via rotating the turnbuckle) to achieve at least 18-19# wastegate pressure and running less turns in on the MBC. Whereas you have the exact reverse. You are running with zero preload and a lot of MBC on top. I only like the MBC to control the final 3-4 PSI at the top of the boost range.
If this doesn't help then I would try a stock IX actuator, or a Forge IX WGA. Also, disassemble, clean and lube the Hallman. Oh yeah, but first, as the others mentioned, go back to the factory intake hose to see if that cures it.
To try to shake things up a bit, I would attempt the opposite of the boost control setup that you are currently running. I myself prefer shortening the actuator rod(via rotating the turnbuckle) to achieve at least 18-19# wastegate pressure and running less turns in on the MBC. Whereas you have the exact reverse. You are running with zero preload and a lot of MBC on top. I only like the MBC to control the final 3-4 PSI at the top of the boost range.
If this doesn't help then I would try a stock IX actuator, or a Forge IX WGA. Also, disassemble, clean and lube the Hallman. Oh yeah, but first, as the others mentioned, go back to the factory intake hose to see if that cures it.
Last edited by sparky; Feb 1, 2009 at 07:03 PM.
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Thread Starter
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From: Cleveland, TN
Did you have FP do the full porting job on your Red turbo? I think that zero WG preload and the notoriously spikey FP HD actuator are strange bedfellows.
To try to shake things up a bit, I would attempt the opposite of the boost control setup that you are currently running. I myself prefer shortening the actuator rod(via rotating the turnbuckle) to achieve at least 18-19# wastegate pressure and running less turns in on the MBC. Whereas you have the exact reverse. You are running with zero preload and a lot of MBC on top. I only like the MBC to control the final 3-4 PSI at the top of the boost range.
If this doesn't help then I would try a stock IX actuator, or a Forge IX WGA. Also, disassemble, clean and lube the Hallman. Oh yeah, but first, as the others mentioned, go back to the factory intake hose to see if that cures it.
To try to shake things up a bit, I would attempt the opposite of the boost control setup that you are currently running. I myself prefer shortening the actuator rod(via rotating the turnbuckle) to achieve at least 18-19# wastegate pressure and running less turns in on the MBC. Whereas you have the exact reverse. You are running with zero preload and a lot of MBC on top. I only like the MBC to control the final 3-4 PSI at the top of the boost range.
If this doesn't help then I would try a stock IX actuator, or a Forge IX WGA. Also, disassemble, clean and lube the Hallman. Oh yeah, but first, as the others mentioned, go back to the factory intake hose to see if that cures it.
I simply just changed the intake pipe, and the odd boost issues.
I will try that tomm by tightening the wastegate up a bit and backing out the boost controller and see how it does.
I will also try going back to the rubber pipe too, I will follow-up with results tomm
Yeah. Change back to the stock intake hose first. Then depending on how that works out, go on to shorten the actuator rod. At first, try three complete turns tighter than the loosest setting. After that shorten by 1/2 turn at a time. Good luck!
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Ok so heres the deal
1. The intake pipe made no difference oddly enough.
2. I reassembled the boost controller and oiled everything up, made no difference.
3. I messed with the wastegate rod, made no difference in how tight or lose I made the preload.
4. Replaced all vac lines and inspected all the other lines.
The boost controller only controls what my boost will spike at, but after the spike it will creep 7-8psi from whatever I spike. I spike 20 I end up @ 28, I spike 25 I end up at 33+....
sooooo possibly a faulty wastegate????, even though the flapper is definitely opening up because the dump comes on full force.
1. The intake pipe made no difference oddly enough.
2. I reassembled the boost controller and oiled everything up, made no difference.
3. I messed with the wastegate rod, made no difference in how tight or lose I made the preload.
4. Replaced all vac lines and inspected all the other lines.
The boost controller only controls what my boost will spike at, but after the spike it will creep 7-8psi from whatever I spike. I spike 20 I end up @ 28, I spike 25 I end up at 33+....
sooooo possibly a faulty wastegate????, even though the flapper is definitely opening up because the dump comes on full force.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2007
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From: Cleveland, TN
I prefer manual due to the fact the ebc's are mucccch more expensive, if its simply a faulty wastegate then I will just get a new one. If I had the money though I would go the EBC route
EDIT: I just by passed the boost controller I ran a line from the wastegate to the compressor pipe nipple and still creeps. Has to be the wastegate correct?
EDIT: I just by passed the boost controller I ran a line from the wastegate to the compressor pipe nipple and still creeps. Has to be the wastegate correct?




