what to watch out for when buy an evo 8?
what to watch out for when buy an evo 8?
anyone wanna help me out id love to get myself a 9 but i just dont have $ like that.. just wanted to see common problems with the 8s. i really know nothing about the cars. a buddy of mines got a 05 ssl.
thanks in advance.
Take someone with you that knows the car. They will find any of the probs that could be there. Aside from syncro issues, and peeling clear coats there really isn't any issues to watch for if the car isn't beat.
was in the same spot you were a couple yrs ago. cudnt afford a 9 and just happen to find the perfect 8 for me. mines an 04 and i love it to death. i was lucky enough to find one thats stock, so i would look for that, but if not possible then just find one that the mods are not crazy. obviously make sure the clutch is okay since they tend to go really quickly. gl with ur search and enjoy the car!
The problems I've had with my VIII are not engine, turbo or drivetrain related. They're annoying things like stuck heater switches, rock chips, fading wing, clearcoat on Brembos and stuck sunroof. Having said all that, I still am happy I bought an Evo.
Make sure the clutch can grab to your liking. AWD cars are harsher on clutches.
Most important thing is, ask the owner if you can do a compression test on the engine. If compression is good then the engine is good.
Anything else can be fixed easily.
Most important thing is, ask the owner if you can do a compression test on the engine. If compression is good then the engine is good.
Anything else can be fixed easily.
well what ide do is first go to a mechanic to do a full inspection witch i dident do . check ur struts and axels for any leaks and look under ur car for anything leaking like oil or damaged or broken parts.
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Check the heater control on the left. If it turns hard, and it is at a dealer, have the dealer replace the heater box levers. Otherwise it is a $15 DIY project.
The first 8's have transmissions that need a fair amount of force to shift. So, this doesn't need to mean the transmission is bad. However if it grinds into any gear the transmission needs work.
Like said above, look under for any leaks. Everything should be dry.
A clunking suspension over bumps in the front is also normal for these cars.
The first 8's have transmissions that need a fair amount of force to shift. So, this doesn't need to mean the transmission is bad. However if it grinds into any gear the transmission needs work.
Like said above, look under for any leaks. Everything should be dry.
A clunking suspension over bumps in the front is also normal for these cars.
Can you explain this more? My heat/cold knob is very stiff and is difficult to turn. How do I fix it for $15 ?
Getting the cables off an on is not necessarily and easy task and if you screw it up you could need a new heater box. So let your abilities be your guide. However, the labor at the dealership shouldn't be much. It is an easy job for them.
The TSB that covers this also recommends pulling the heater box and replacing the heater door and plus the above mentioned the levers. Don't do this unless the levers alone won't do - read expensive.
If you look up above the accelerator pedal you will see the two white plastic levers on the heater box. These levers were a Mitsu booboo and they came out with replacement levers that work a lot better. Most dealers, in my experience, have the replacement levers in stock and the cost is $15 or less.
Getting the cables off an on is not necessarily and easy task and if you screw it up you could need a new heater box. So let your abilities be your guide. However, the labor at the dealership shouldn't be much. It is an easy job for them.
The TSB that covers this also recommends pulling the heater box and replacing the heater door and plus the above mentioned the levers. Don't do this unless the levers alone won't do - read expensive.
Getting the cables off an on is not necessarily and easy task and if you screw it up you could need a new heater box. So let your abilities be your guide. However, the labor at the dealership shouldn't be much. It is an easy job for them.
The TSB that covers this also recommends pulling the heater box and replacing the heater door and plus the above mentioned the levers. Don't do this unless the levers alone won't do - read expensive.
And all this time, I thought the knob had just been over-tightened!
^ What he said. I fixed mine just be swapping in the new gears (they changed the design). I did not have to mess at all with the heater box internals.



