I currently have a Greddy RS diverter valve on my Evo 8, and it sounds stock, but I would rather have a stock valve in there. Eventually I will do a Tial when I change out my UICP, but I am not doing that this year. What should I consider for replacing the Greddy, does the 9 one work better, or is there a JDM metal one that people use?

I will be pushing upwards around 30 psi, so I want to make sure she will hold. Opinions?

 

25-26 psi is max the evo 9 dv will hold. idk how much it can hold is it was crushed

 

If you crush it correctly or use a Dejon Leak-stop kit, the OEM's can hold over 30.

 

I will look into crushing or the leak-stop kit that you mention, thank you.

Is there one OEM one that people use more than others? Is the Evo 9 one the way to go?

 

Do you reccomend the Dejon stop leak over say the Works DV or the Tomei? I think 40k miles on 25+ psi on my stocker is starting to wear it out. It pops open pulling a hill in 6th gear sometimes.

 

yes for oem the evo ix (9) bov is the way to go. also the jdm mr bov is the same thing. it is metal as the evo 8 bov is plastic and is known to leak.

 

How do you go about crushing it correctly?

 

would like to know as well !!

 

I run the stock 1G DSM bypass valve with the Dodge Garage mod. This will easily hold 40psi with no leaks and work like stock.

 

to crush a a dv properly u need to crush the top of the dv. this will put more tension on the spring allowing it to stay closed. this is how i learned to crush a dv.
1. get a socket that will cover the top of the dv.
2. place the dv and the socket into a bench vice
3. slowly tighten the vice. take ur time and be patient. tighten and loosing a few times adding more tension to the vise.
4. after u have crushed it, but it on the car and ur ready to go

hope that helped

 

You don't.

Here's someone with the right idea. You don't need to destroy the functionality of your BOV by crushing it, and you don't need to spend money on a "leak-stop kit". Just buy a set screw and plug the hole for the fast release port on the bottom of the valve, and drill a hole in the side of the passage and you've got a stock BOV that'll hold any amount of boost you can throw at it. I've even done this to a stock plastic VIII valve and it holds better than an unmodded IX valve.

 

The stock valve has two control ports, one for each side of the diaghram. The top port, the one that senses vacuum, will open valve under vacuum (shifts, cruise) and helps hold on boost. It doesn't fully hold on boost because the psi under diaghram feels the pressure on the charge prior to TB which is about 2 psi higher. The inner chamber that allows air to enter here is small diameter so the boost taper is gradual.

You can use this to your advantage by fitting a solenoid to the inner chamber controlled by the TPS through flash (if IC spray equipped, you can use this table). This allows the valve to have no air under diaghram during boost holding solid as any aftermarket piece but also the system will taper properly at normal driving keeping turbo happy and driving smooth.

 

do you have a picture of this?

 

I know its an older thread... but here you go... Courtesty of my friends at the dodge garage.

http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

 

+1 on the Dejon Tool. I personally dont have it but 2 of my freinds do and they run meth and 28+psi and it works great for them.