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2014 Lancer ES MT Turbo Build

 
Old Feb 27, 2019, 02:09 PM
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2014 Lancer ES MT Turbo Build

So I decided to turbocharge my lancer because after owning it for 5 years I wanted a little more power. Before you say ďjust get a ralliart/evo,Ē realize that I already own the car and selling it to get an evo would cost a lot more. I could probably get around $7k for it, but there are no ralliarts for sale around me and decent evos go for over $24k. ****************** is down now and there was some really good turbo build posts there that are gone, so hopefully this will become a new resource for people looking to boost their lancers.

This is a pretty easy build that you can do in your garage or on the street as everything is bolt on except for the exhaust after the downpipe. You can even do it over a couple days and drive it in between if you go in the right order. The hardest part about this build is getting the tuning down. If you have the complete turbo kit installed and still have the stock MAF sensor, you have to disconnect the wastegate actuator from the valve to prevent yourself from getting into boost. Other forum posts claim you can flash the evo ROM onto your stock ECU. I never had any luck with that, but the stock ROM can be flashed so its at least usable if you donít get into open loop.

Parts ListTotal for parts is roughly $2350. There were other odds and ends not included here like oil, radiator fluid, maybe a clamp or two.

Labor
I needed some custom exhaust work to connect the downpipe to stock exhaust. Pipe, catalytic converter, and labor totaled about $300.
The engine oil feed plug was a real ***** to get out. I snapped a hex driver inside it and got a mechanic to get the plug out. Cost me $100.
An ECU that doesnít come with your car needs to be programmed for your VIN at the dealer. Costs about $100.

Make Sure You Have All the Parts
Before you start tearing your car apart, it's a good idea to make sure you have everything. I put all the parts together and got all the clamps/hoses/etc in the right position like this.


Intercooler
Youíll need to remove the bumper and battery to do this. I mounted the intercooler to the car using a single bolt where a wiring clip was. Then I clamped the inlet and outlet pipe to the intercooler. After these three pieces are secure, you can put the bumper back on.

The picture below shows where you can attach the intercooler outlet pipe to the frame.

A 135 degree bend is needed to connect the throttle body to the air pipe. This part is a little tight and will take some effort to clamp it in a way that avoids pressing against the coolant line or interfering with the shift cables. As a side note, youíll see some normal hose clamps where there should be T-bolt clamps. Those were replaced later.


Exhaust/Turbo
I replaced the stock wastegate actuator with the TRIDT model that has a 7psi spring in it. Thatís a pretty safe boost level for the stock internals according to RRM and I can always add a boost controller later. I couldnít fit the turbo and exhaust manifold on at the same time, so I had to drop the turbo down from the top, then bolt in the exhaust manifold, then bolt in the turbo from the bottom.

The new downpipe and stock exhaust will interfere with each other. I just cut the stock exhaust and ran it with just the downpipe until I got to the exhaust shop and replaced the mid section.

The downpipe is also very close to a wiring harness. Wrap the wires in heat reflective tape and maybe also wrap the downpipe with exhaust wrap to prevent and possible melting issues.


Intake
Now you can connect the rest of the air intake. The upper and lower intake pipes didnít quite line up so I had to add an extra few inches. The MAF housing from MAPerformance and short air filter lets you use the stock battery location.

Replace the MAP sensor at the bottom left of the intake manifold with either a stock or OmniPower 3 bar sensor.

Make sure you connect all your boost and vacuum hoses. Vacuum for the BoV was tapped from the brake booster. The second BoV stem and PCV hose connects to the pre-turbo pipe. Iím running the turbo on wastegate pressure with a T-fitting for a boost sensor.


Turbo Oil and Coolant
Oil feed location is below. This is a 3/8" BSPT fitting. A 3/8" npt will not fit and it will leak. This bolt was a real ***** to get out. I snapped my hex bit inside of it and had to get a mechanic to loosen it for me.

I added an oil pressure sensor to make sure the supply was good. Iíve removed it since then. OIl feed is a -4AN line that is routed under the intake manifold and around the right side of the engine. This avoids the hot exhaust manifold and burning your line open (I know because Iím an idiot and did that the first time).

I used a -10AN braided line covered with a fire sleeve, mostly to prevent the line rubbing against the subframe. I removed the oil pan to drill a hole for the oil return fitting. The fitting uses rubber seals so it doesnít need to be welded in.

A coolant line that goes from the block to near the throttle body can be rerouted through the turbo. When connecting the coolant lines to the turbo, you want the cold fluid to flow either horizontal or at a slight incline.


Electrical
I routed my boost, oil pressure, and AFR gauges to the bottom of the center console. There was an audio input flap there that I wasnít using so I removed it and didnít need to drill any holes. To get behind the dash, you need to remove the glovebox to remove the trim on the passenger side door to remove the silver trim that goes across the dash to remove the radio trim. Then you need to remove the center console. I think thereís a youtube video on it.

Power for these gauges can be piggybacked off the fuse box by the driver side door.

Ground is tapped from an existing ground connection on the trans tunnel on the driver side.

Data wires follow the front oxygen harness out of the interior through a grommet on the passenger floor. I forgot to take a picture of this and donít want to rip up the carpet again even though itís pretty easy. The green wires in the engine bay that you see in other pictures are the data wires and are routed up the firewall behind some heat shielding.

Power for the boost gauge goes to the engine bay fuse box using another fuse piggyback. The red wire zip tied to the wiring harness goes up into the red wire in the fuse box.


At this point, you can drive using an unmodified ROM. It wonít run well and will lean out under boost, so donít be an idiot and watch your AFR gauge.

Stock ECU Tuning
There are a few things you can do to run your stock ECU with the new turbo. None of them will let you drive hard or get tons of power out of it. Again, donít be an idiot and watch your AFR. You will need a Tactrix cable for this. Check out the N/A ROM tuning thread to get started and read everything in there.
To not lean out under boost so much, replace the injectors with Evo injectors and edit the ROM to match the new injectors.
To stop the car from going into limp mode when you step on the gas a little, modify the Torque Monitor and Torque Max tables to the values in the aforementioned tuning thread.
With those two modifications, you should be stable in closed loop operation. I would not try to tune it for power because of the MAP sensor. The stock is a 1 bar and by replacing it with a 3 bar you mess up all the load calculations. I havenít found a way to modify this, but maybe one day Iíll dig into it.
Other threads mention being able to flash an Evo ROM on to the stock ECU. This did not work for me, even by bench flashing.

Evo ECU
To get any sort of power out of the new turbo, you need an Evo ECU. I used part number 1860C045, but other years/part numbers will probably work. First you need to get the VIN programmed by following this guide. The local dealership was able to do that for me for a hundred bucks.
First thing to do on the new ECU is enable mode 23 and disable boost control solenoid DTCs.
Next scale the MAF sensor reading to use better values for the 3Ē housing.

The new ECU can handle boost a lot better, but I still canít tune because of DTC P2253. This is apparently caused by pin 38 on my ECU harness not existing. Iíll update as I figure this out, but if anyone has wiring diagrams for 2014 USDM lancers and Evos (not from California) I would appreciate it. The diagrams I do have from here and here might not apply to newer model years.
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riyodan_04 (Apr 17, 2019)
Old Feb 27, 2019, 02:10 PM
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