2014 Lancer ES MT Turbo Build
So we made the evo x final edition ecu work pretty easily. We used an autel scanner with the built in programming function. It copied the one file from the old computer over, changed the vin and everything worked.
The one question I had on the oxygen sensor was; does it matter which signal wire goes to which pin. I have a denso sensor. The blue wire is the signal. So which pin on your diagram would go to the blue wire?
The one question I had on the oxygen sensor was; does it matter which signal wire goes to which pin. I have a denso sensor. The blue wire is the signal. So which pin on your diagram would go to the blue wire?
The short answer is I don't know what would work. The long answer is both the MR and Ralliart have dual clutch transmissions. The part of the ECU that controls your CVT is probably completely different. My best guess would be that you should keep the stock ECU and replace the MAP sensor with a 3 bar. When you do this your car won't go into limp mode anymore after maxing out the stock MAP sensor, but the load scaling will be completely wrong. You'll probably need to find a VERY good tuner with a dyno that will fix everything that has to do with load.
I'm curious. some can tune their turbo lancers without a second IAT sensor. it seems the same is not the case with 2008 evo x gsr roms and 08 evo x ecu.
Hey Sal! Hey Guys! I bought a Cxracing intercooler kit with the air intake pipe. the pre turbo air intake pipe has two stems. one is for the pcv valve but other one i dont know where to connect it. the blow off valve although we have the same color doesn't have the stem below. it. it only has one stem and the big one connected tot the pre turbo pipes. any ideas where to connect the second stem pre turbo?
Cap off the small stem on the intake. It should go to the bov, but I guess they needed to sub a different one. Just to make sure, the bigger stem goes the the breather on the right side of the valve cover, not the pcv on the left side
Lancer is good. I haven't made any changes to it in years, except for moving the battery to the trunk. Also haven't taken back to the drag strip since I got it dialed in. It's just been pretty solid sitting at 190whp and 7lbs of boost. I'm not even going to try and turn it up because I don't have boost referenced fuel pressure. If I ever get around to doing that I might try turning it up a few psi.
Nothing really planned. Oil cooler is a waste unless I take it for a track day, and even then other stuff will probably overheat faster. I'm thinking about a fluidampr to see if it helps some vibrations that might be caused by a lighter flywheel. Then of course I need to get a proper boost reference for fuel pressure before I do anything power wise.
I don't plan on selling it though. I bought it new, it's reliable, and it's worthless to anyone but me. The only reason I pass inspection is because PA doesn't require emissions for cars under 5k miles per year. A regular cat instead of the high flow I have will probably fix it, but why spend the money? Did you end up doing a turbo build?
I don't plan on selling it though. I bought it new, it's reliable, and it's worthless to anyone but me. The only reason I pass inspection is because PA doesn't require emissions for cars under 5k miles per year. A regular cat instead of the high flow I have will probably fix it, but why spend the money? Did you end up doing a turbo build?






