Update
reflashed the Rom through the obd2 port in the car, car is now communicating with the ecu an the rpm needle is now moving when cranking
I also installed fuse#8 15 amp in the engine bay fuse box my car for some reason did not have the fuse there this fuse is for the throttle actuator circuit not just the EVT/ oil cooler replaced the battery I had the battery load tested today an it said replace so that’s why I was not getting spark even tho the charge was holding at 12.88 volts a weak spark that I could not see I removed the car cover an got in the car clutch in an boom we now have a turbocharged lancer thank you for your suggestions hope these findings help some others so bench flash did not work for me tho the obd2 port in the car did with the flash did an fuse #8 15amp in engine bay for throttle control actuator circuit the code I got was P0657 open circuit

 

Awesome glad to hear it! I'm glad this forum is taking off. Hopefully everyone who wants to can soon have a turbo lancer.

 

Has anyone found a fix for the P0365 dtc
besides useing the X ecu I have searched for answers an only found that people have just given up an used an x ecu this would be great info to have there are probz people sitting back who no how to but there just having a laugh about it or useing it for capital gain for themselves?????

 

SalD

hey man what plug gap are you running??
an can you tell me after your first start did the throttle response seem a bit hectic like did your car break up a bit when blipping the throttle

 

2Raunchy I finally read all your posts here and you have a really cool build. It would be cool if you made another thread so other people can easily see your way of doing it. I plan on moving my battery to the trunk in the spring and would appreciate if you made a post about how you did that too.

P0365 is for your exhaust camshaft position. You can see exactly how it gets set here. As a side note mitsubi****echinfo.com needs a subscription, but most of their pages aren't actually behind a login. You can get to that page by googling 'site:mitsubi****echinfo.com p0365'. That's how I find out why all my dtcs are going off. When I first installed the turbo I remember having that dtc, but I can't remember how I got rid of it. Your 4b12 has the same exhaust camshaft and vvt sprocket as the 4b11T and the same wiring, so I have no idea why that would happen. I just know that I'm not having that problem on the evo ecu.

I'm using NGK Iridiums, but one step colder and gapped at about 0.035in. My tuning went through a few stages and when increasing it always went lean for a second before the ecu caught up until I got rid of all the dtcs and tuned it properly. The biggest thing holding me back was the wideband to narrow band O2 conversion because it couldn't learn how to set fuel trims properly. After that was sorted the next biggest problem was getting a correct fuel calibration. Aftermarket MAF housings will be a different diameter than stock and need a custom tune to be accurate. I believe that is the only way the ecu can properly adjust fuel in transient throttle conditions.

 

thank you for your reply man I will start a new thread sorry to bump this one I will post pictures an the info on what I used for the battery thank you very much for your info
Muchly appreciate the help

 

I didn't mean to say get off my thread. I think it would just be helpful to organize the different builds so people looking for info can see the different paths people took.

 

Hey Sal. How were you fitting the intake around the shift cables? I have the turbo mounted and everything and was planning on using the cold air intake I had on the car when it was N/A, and just adapting it by twisting it, but I can't seem to make it fit past the shift cables properly without causing some sort of interference. I was thinking I'd need like a 15-30 degree silicone elbow but I just wanted to see how you'd done it since it wasn't in the original post.

 

I didn't have any issues with the shift cables. The CX racing intake tubing with the short MAF housing kept everything out of the way. I imagine if you want to fit your cold air intake you'll have to move the battery. Can you post some pics?

 

I can definitely grab some pictures when I get home, I wouldn't have to move the battery, as the way it would sit is almost vertical in the same spot as yours behind the battery, not ideal, but I have the OEM air scoop that goes overtop the battery so I can at least use that to funnel more cool air to the intake when the car is moving.

 

Any issues with the exhaust manifold leaking? I was surprised to see that the 4b12 only uses 5 bolts instead of the 10 that the evo uses

 

I'm not sure what you mean. 4b11/11t/12 heads all have the same manifold pattern from what I've seen.

 

They have the same pattern, but half as many studs holding it on. Which is interesting, because the gaskets both have 10 holes.

 

If I remember correctly all 10 holes are threaded. The 5 studs are to easily get the manifold in place then the studs get nuts and the other holes get bolts.

 

That’s exactly how I thought it would be. I just took mine off. I’m getting ready to put my evo x manifold on it. I took a video of the back of my motor just to get a better look. All I have is 5 studs and 2 holes on the outside that aren’t threaded at all. There’s no other holes at all. Maybe some years they put them in. I honestly don’t even know what year this motor came out of. Kid I bought it off of put another 4b12 in it from a junk yard.