Upgraded oil line for fp red turbo
I don't see any con in using the stock oil line for the red as long as the oil supply to the turbo is clean you should not have anything to worry about. I believe that the main reason why some upgrade the stock oil line is so that they can utilize one of those in-line oil filters in the turbo oil supply line to protect the turbo in case of oil supply contamination.
Straight up, I've read about the stock oil line not supplying enough oil on several set ups causing catastrophic failure. IMO, spend the extra $120 or so and save yourself a potential headache down the line.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Lancer-TurboHW
Here is the link.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Lancer-TurboHW
Here is the link.
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From: williamson, WV
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If you are using it on an FP Red, FP has a great warranty for people who use their line and filter from the time they buy the turbo. Take a look on their web site.
"Our Promise to You:
FP turbocharger customers who use the FP4ANFilter on their FP turbos for the entire service life of the turbocharger will NEVER pay for a turbo repair resulting from oil contamination. This promise protects you against oil contamination only and does not extend to failures due to insufficient oil supply, plugged filter, excessive EGT, failure to connect coolant lines to the turbo, or blade damage resulting from fingers, rags, O2 sensor pigtails, boost controller vacuum lines, stray washers or small rodents that may get sucked into the turbo or object such as valve, valve guide or piston chunklets that may get spit out of the engine.
FP turbo customers who have used the FP4ANFilter for the entire service life of the turbocharger should send in a copy of the original invoice showing the simultaneous purchase of the FP4ANFilter and the FP turbo that is being presented for servicing or repair in order to benefit from this oil contamination protection promise. "
"Our Promise to You:
FP turbocharger customers who use the FP4ANFilter on their FP turbos for the entire service life of the turbocharger will NEVER pay for a turbo repair resulting from oil contamination. This promise protects you against oil contamination only and does not extend to failures due to insufficient oil supply, plugged filter, excessive EGT, failure to connect coolant lines to the turbo, or blade damage resulting from fingers, rags, O2 sensor pigtails, boost controller vacuum lines, stray washers or small rodents that may get sucked into the turbo or object such as valve, valve guide or piston chunklets that may get spit out of the engine.
FP turbo customers who have used the FP4ANFilter for the entire service life of the turbocharger should send in a copy of the original invoice showing the simultaneous purchase of the FP4ANFilter and the FP turbo that is being presented for servicing or repair in order to benefit from this oil contamination protection promise. "
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This is from the FAQ on FP's website:
Q. Why do people say it's not good to get oil feed for the turbo off the cylinder head? Should I use a filter on my oil supply line to my turbo?
A. There are plenty of people who have oiled their turbo off the head and not had any problems, there are just as many if not more that have done it and had recurring turbo failure that was only vaguely described by the repair shop as "poor lubrication".
Oil pressure in the cylinder head on a stock 4G63 engine can be less than 5psi at times, while this may be enough oil for a factory 14b, T25 or even 20g it isn't enough to feed the high volume oil passages of the modified thrust setup in your FPGreen or FPRed model turbo. The Garrett severe duty 360 thrust setups also have an increased appetite for lubrication. Think twice before feeding either of these type turbos from the head.
Remember that you aren't just trying to keep some oil on the bearing, you are trying to float one piece of metal above another piece of metal on a pressurized film of oil, and at the same time keep the whole mess cool enough not to melt. A constant high volume stream of oil does just that, a measly trickle will send you back to the turbo shop.
One exception to this is the Ballistic Concepts Ball Bearing CHRA from Garrett. These turbochargers are totally different internally. Their operation is actually impeded by too much oil. It is fine to supply these turbos with oil from the head. In fact the oil line we offer comes from the head and features a .8mm orifice to restrict the oil flow to the turbo . These turbos require water cooling in the absence of the typical high volume of oil that would normally provide stable temperatures.
As far as filters go, you're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't. You shouldn't need one in your oil line. Failures occur due to dirt/grit in the oil making it into the turbocharger. Failures also occur due to plugged filters. We have seen it both ways. If you are going to use a filter, check it often. The most important thing you can do to avoid oil contamination of you turbo is to THUROUGHLY wash everything more than once before assembling your engine. Avoid sandblasting anything that goes inside or onto the engine. Specifically avoid sandblasting your valve cover. If you suspect that the machine shop that did your valve job sandblasted your head then make sure you remove the 4 plugs from each end of the head that cover the ends of the oil gallies and wash the gallies out with HOT SOAPY WATER. If you do this you will be amazed at what comes out of your beautifully machined freshly rebuilt head.
If you think all that is a bunch of crap, at least spin the engine over to prime the oil system without the turbo attached so that anything in the gallies has a chance to flush out instead of flush into your new turbo.
-Bink
Q. Why do people say it's not good to get oil feed for the turbo off the cylinder head? Should I use a filter on my oil supply line to my turbo?
A. There are plenty of people who have oiled their turbo off the head and not had any problems, there are just as many if not more that have done it and had recurring turbo failure that was only vaguely described by the repair shop as "poor lubrication".
Oil pressure in the cylinder head on a stock 4G63 engine can be less than 5psi at times, while this may be enough oil for a factory 14b, T25 or even 20g it isn't enough to feed the high volume oil passages of the modified thrust setup in your FPGreen or FPRed model turbo. The Garrett severe duty 360 thrust setups also have an increased appetite for lubrication. Think twice before feeding either of these type turbos from the head.
Remember that you aren't just trying to keep some oil on the bearing, you are trying to float one piece of metal above another piece of metal on a pressurized film of oil, and at the same time keep the whole mess cool enough not to melt. A constant high volume stream of oil does just that, a measly trickle will send you back to the turbo shop.
One exception to this is the Ballistic Concepts Ball Bearing CHRA from Garrett. These turbochargers are totally different internally. Their operation is actually impeded by too much oil. It is fine to supply these turbos with oil from the head. In fact the oil line we offer comes from the head and features a .8mm orifice to restrict the oil flow to the turbo . These turbos require water cooling in the absence of the typical high volume of oil that would normally provide stable temperatures.
As far as filters go, you're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't. You shouldn't need one in your oil line. Failures occur due to dirt/grit in the oil making it into the turbocharger. Failures also occur due to plugged filters. We have seen it both ways. If you are going to use a filter, check it often. The most important thing you can do to avoid oil contamination of you turbo is to THUROUGHLY wash everything more than once before assembling your engine. Avoid sandblasting anything that goes inside or onto the engine. Specifically avoid sandblasting your valve cover. If you suspect that the machine shop that did your valve job sandblasted your head then make sure you remove the 4 plugs from each end of the head that cover the ends of the oil gallies and wash the gallies out with HOT SOAPY WATER. If you do this you will be amazed at what comes out of your beautifully machined freshly rebuilt head.
If you think all that is a bunch of crap, at least spin the engine over to prime the oil system without the turbo attached so that anything in the gallies has a chance to flush out instead of flush into your new turbo.
-Bink
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