That was my point in my other post... if it ain't broke don't fix it! Now if you do lift the head then by all means rip the head off and replace the gasket and add studs...

 

It does not need to be broken in. After a few heat cycles its a good idea to retorque the ARP's though. ARP recommends a very low spec, but it seems like most engine builders are recommending between 85-95 ft/lbs. I'll be reassembly a friend's engine fairly soon here and I plan to torque his to 90 ft/lbs to split the difference in case the torque wrench is inaccurate in either direction.

 

Install and Go

 

Make sure the engine is cold. Also make sure you blow out any oil or coolant from the stud holes before putting in new ones. Retorque after about 100 miles of driving when the engine is cold

 

I completely agree.

 

your planning to switch to the FP Red, i would go ahead and do the Studs, stock gasket will be fine.
Im running a 35 on stock gasket with APR studs. 22-25psi daily, 25-33psi Race Day. 80k miles. NO PROBLEM

 

I know some local IX's with Red's running E85 and 31+ psi daily on the stock studs and gasket; no issues. The stockers are quite strong and I really think changing them has the potential to cause more issues and really won't be saving you from anything.

 

Yeah i know many people rolling around on stock studs, but i would rather be safe then sorry. Thats why i went ahead and changed mine. Im finishing up my full build so a change was needed.

 

R/TErnie runs a FP Red and 32 PSI on race gas with stock studs and gasket also...

 

Id leave it alone..

 

Well coming from a motor building background I do not believe the critics that say there is a better chance of failure by changing the studs out, AS LONG AS EVERYTHING IS CORRECTLY installed and checked. I usually do a quick check of the surface on the head at the very least. Every motor wears a bit different, who knows how the guy drove it before, and if there is the slightest warp (god forbid) in the head then the seal will not be right, but making sure the sealing surfaces are flat and within specs means that the block to head seal will be as good if not better than new depending on the head gasket used along with technique used. It's all in the time you spend on the procedure of installing a new head gasket, checking things, and parts used. So take the time use your manual and do things right. The 1x1 method SHOULD work, if you don't want to go through the hassle of checking surfaces but it isn't guaranteed. Make sure you do a leak-down or at least a compression test to say the least before and after the procedure. Regardless either way take your time with whatever path you may choose...hey if the 1x1 does not work, go back in with the new head gasket and make sure to check or have the machine shop check the head out at the very least. (usually the blocks surface is okay).....I think your stock stuff will be fine even with an FP red. Just my 2 cents, then again I'm a noob to evolutinm.net -Travis GL

 

very well said for a noob

 

LOL well he is 100% correct, and i to have a friend here running the red at 30+ psi. but he has APR studs to back it up. Stretched stock heads studs are no good at high boost.

 

I would not bother with it. I have a set of studs here on a shelf, but never installed them.

~35psi spikes when I had the stock turbo on e85 daily, now i am running 31-32psi on a gt35r on e85 daily on factory head bolts. And trust me at this power level pushing a gasket is the last thing on my mind.

Fathouse