The noise isnt a squeeling or anything of that sort, its a loud ticking sound, Its usually louder on cold starts, but today I started the car and it was way louder than normal. I think the sound is the belt moving up and down, almost like its flapping. The belt feels way looser than it should. When its running you can visably watch the belt between the cam gears flex up and down about half an inch or so, not completely sure on the measurment. But it stays on track, the belt doesnt move back and forth, and unfortunatley its my daily driver so I have to drive it, but theres obviously no boosting, and i turned it all the way down.

I really dont wanna loose this motor haha, Is there anyway I can tighten the belt without having to tear everything apart? I just dont feel like hearing that horrible noise of the belt slipping exploding my motor.

I just took a 2 minute long video and stuff of it but I cant find the dumb cord to the camera, when I find it i'll post the video.

I checked out the How To on timing belts on here believe me, but Im hoping I dont have to drop the motor mount and the accessory belt off to do this.

Any help would be awesome, thank you!

 

The tensioner in non adjustable, but self adjusting.
To be sure youre going to want to remove the tensioner and inspect it for leaks and damage.

INSPECTION TIMING BELT TENSIONER ADJUSTER CHECK:

1. Check for oil leak from seal, and replace it if leak is detected.
2. Check for wear or damage at the top of the rod. Replace it, if
required.
3. Hold the timing belt tensioner adjuster by hand, and press
the top end of the rod onto the metal (e.g. cylinder block)
under a pressure of 98 − 196 N (22 − 44 pounds) to
measure the movement of the rod.
Standard value: Within 1 mm (0.039 inch)
A: Length when it is free (not pressed)
B: Length when it is pressed
A − B: Movement
4. If the measured value is out of the standard value, replace
the timing belt tensioner adjuster.

 

At timing belt replacement time the tensioner has to be set within a narrow range of adjustment. This gives it enough travel to take up slack as the belt stretches during its 60K lifespan.

A DSM I bought new ran out of timing belt tension adjustment before the magic 60K interval but I was lucky and caught it before it jumped time. It sounds like you have the same problem.

 

Duplicate post - deleted

 

Hmm, the belt itself looks new, maybe whoever replaced it before i got it didnt set it right. Ill have to look into it, anyone recommend a different belt than oem?

I think i'll have the dealership take care of it, by the Do it yourself, it looks like a pain.

 

i have the exact problem. is it the tensioner pully or the tensioner itself?

 

Adjusting the tensioner pulley also adjusts the hydraulic tensioner. Slowly and carefully compress the hydraulic tensioner plunger in a vise or large C clamp. Then pin it in place with a suitable sized pin. When the tensioner pulley is adjusted correctly the pin slid through the hydraulic tensioner and through the hole in the plunger rod should be loose. When I did my belt I left the car sit overnight and checked this adjustment again the next morning before throwing the rest of the parts under the hood.

 

exactly, or buy the special rod and do it the right way and then put the grenade pin in. the threaded rod allows me to get proper tension in 1 try. with proper tension and afterkmarket cams the belt will look loose, it wont be tight. you should be able to push on the belt inbetween the cam gears and it should lean down a bit.

 

Well, I'm curious, I see the use of the threaded rod in the service manual but I always pull the hydraulic tensioner because, for me, that is the quickest way of getting the belt off. So, having it in hand, if I am going to reuse it, I compress it in a vice and pin it.

My take on what is in the service manual is that this just another method of compressing the tensioner if you choose not to remove it from the engine. Am I missing something? How does this make it easier to set the tension?

 

Its much faster then a clamp. the block even is threaded for the bolt to go through, or the head i forget which. the rod allows you to set a preload on the tensioner at all times making it way easier to move the tensioner pulley arround since theres no load on the actual pulley since the rod is taking care of it. You can can set the tensioner just a hair before its properly preloaded then play with the pulley then tighten when the pin is free moving in and out, this is what makes the rod easier to use.

I hope I explained myself properly, its difficult to explain in text since its so tedious. Its one of those things where when you're put in the situation you just know what to do at that given time.

let me add:

I tighten the rod down so it allows me to move the pin through so i know i have proper gap, then i set the tensioner pulley where i think it should go then slowly back out the rod while still making sure the pin can slide freely.. if it stops sliding then you know you need to adjust something. so i tighten down the rod some then loosen the pulley nut and go again. the rod gives you major control over the entire operation. once you've mastered the rod technique you can hit it first or second try EVERYTIME.

 

Off topic, but please, tell me the secret!

 

 

I don't use the rod and hit it 1st try every time and timing belts don't stretch thats a myth, I have had cars with 80k and the pin still slips into the tensioner as easy as day one. your problem is someone didn't set the pretensions properly an your tensioner is all the way out causing the tension arm to tap on the tensioner piston, I would replace the tensioner and belt. another brand of belt I would suggest is Mitsuboshi they are hard to find but they have put millions of dollars into belt technology check there site. www.mitsuboshi.com hope this helps

 

kevlars do not but regular oem will. gates is the best alternative.

 

mine makes the same noise but im running with a Greddy Timing Belt and I have UR underdrive pulleys so i had to get a smaller belt..(accessory belt)