View Poll Results: ARP Head Stud Install
One by One
61
49.19%
Remove Head
63
50.81%
Voters: 124. You may not vote on this poll
POLL: ARP Head Stud Install
^^^ Listen to the DSMer.
If it ain't broke, dont fix it. Stock bolts are fine if you're tuned decently. Worry about it if/when you pop a gasket, why compromise the factory seal before then? And skip the ARPs and get L19s to make it worth your while.
If you're going to insist on doing the 1x1 method, I'd at least drain the coolant and blow some compressed air down the oil passages to try and ensure that no residual fluids can weep between the layers when you crack the seal.
If it ain't broke, dont fix it. Stock bolts are fine if you're tuned decently. Worry about it if/when you pop a gasket, why compromise the factory seal before then? And skip the ARPs and get L19s to make it worth your while.
If you're going to insist on doing the 1x1 method, I'd at least drain the coolant and blow some compressed air down the oil passages to try and ensure that no residual fluids can weep between the layers when you crack the seal.
As others have said why bother compromising the nice factory seal by installing the studs 1x1? If it aint broke then dont fix it. Assuming the tune on your car is up to par and free from detonation then the stock headstuds should be sufficient.
Can you get away doing it the 1x1 method? Probably, however at the same time you probably could have been gotten away with keeping the stock hardware in there...
Can you get away doing it the 1x1 method? Probably, however at the same time you probably could have been gotten away with keeping the stock hardware in there...
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 356
Likes: 2
From: Actionville, FL
People often assume ARPs and aftermarket headgaskets are surefire ways to keep good head gasket seal. In reality, they are often just a bandaid on the bullet wound which is garbage tuning and **** fuel.
)
It seems that more ppl have had good experience with 1x1 method than those that don't.... I also agree that head studs are more than likely not needed for most setups... and I would also agree that the absolutely best method would be to remove the head.
But from experience in designing bolted joints etc, I would hightly doubt that the surface pressure release from removing one stud at a time and retorque etc, would make a significant difference in the sealing capability, the cylinder head is pretty stiff to keep a highly distributed pressure with no other external forces..... just my $.02
But from experience in designing bolted joints etc, I would hightly doubt that the surface pressure release from removing one stud at a time and retorque etc, would make a significant difference in the sealing capability, the cylinder head is pretty stiff to keep a highly distributed pressure with no other external forces..... just my $.02
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: The Space Coast of Florida
I prefer to pull the head to make sure there are no fluids that weep into the sealing surfaces. I have done it both ways, but piece of mind pulling the head and cleaning the surface rules for me.
I did the one by one on many cars, mine over 28K miles ago and it sees 30+psi on a daily basis and has zero issues. I have gotten so complacent about checking my fluids since this car does not leak a drop of anything. 89K miles on the car now.
Ask any major automotive tech and they'll tell you to pull the head (ex-porsche tech btw). Why take the risk of something not sealing properly or compromising the seal all together?
Like mentioned, why fix something that isn't broke unless you plan on cranking very high levels of pressure into your stock motor (I'm assuming it's stock because if it was built you wouldn't have skimped and installed L19's during the buildup
) which is asking for it anyway. I currently run up to 30psi daily into my motor on the stock head bolts without ever having any issues at all. The secret is mostly in the tune...by reducing any detonation or chances of detonation you keep the cylinder pressures down to a level that the stock head bolts can handle. It's when you start detonating that you run into big issues of extremely high and dangerous cylinder pressures that blow out headgaskets or lift heads.
The key to anything with these motors is tune, tune, tune if you want it to last.
Like mentioned, why fix something that isn't broke unless you plan on cranking very high levels of pressure into your stock motor (I'm assuming it's stock because if it was built you wouldn't have skimped and installed L19's during the buildup
) which is asking for it anyway. I currently run up to 30psi daily into my motor on the stock head bolts without ever having any issues at all. The secret is mostly in the tune...by reducing any detonation or chances of detonation you keep the cylinder pressures down to a level that the stock head bolts can handle. It's when you start detonating that you run into big issues of extremely high and dangerous cylinder pressures that blow out headgaskets or lift heads.The key to anything with these motors is tune, tune, tune if you want it to last.