Doin a rebuild was originally just goin to be an OEM rebuild but hey you guys got the best of me. So just trying to get my setup down. Let me know what you think.

Wiseco 1400HD Pistons (DSM / Evo / 4g63)
Selected options:
Engine: 7 Bolt / Evo
Bore: Standard

$509.99 x = $509.99

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Eagle Forged Connecting Rods / DSM & Evo
Selected options:
Engine: 7 Bolt/Evo
Advanced Ceramic Rod Coatings: No coatings

$309.99 x = $309.99

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ACL Race Series Main + Rod Bearings (DSM / Evo)
Selected options:
Engine: 1997+ 7 bolt/Evo (+20)
Main Bearing Size: Standard
Rod Bearing Size: Standard
Ceramic Bearing Coatings: No coating

$109.99 x = $109.99

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Balance Shaft Elimination Kit (DSM/Evo)

OEM Mitsubishi Balance Shaft Elimination Kit
Selected options:
Bearings/Sprocket: Not Included

$24.99 x = $24.99

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ARP Cylinder Head Studs (DSM)
Selected options:
Engine: 7 Bolt / 4g63
Head Gasket: None
Timing Belt: None

$93.99 x = $93.99

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Subtotal:
$1048.95


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Looks good so far, maybe some arp rod bolts.

 

I would suggest changing rods to manley turbo tuff. I run them in my car and made 750whp....but if its not in your budget I'm sure you'll be fine.

 

If you have to rebuild your motor best to do full upgrade on internals... another suggestion is might want to have your block bored and honed and decked and the head surfaced so you get a good seal when installing. Also you can get ARP main studs. Remember you now have the option of doing a stroker. I paid $1500 for my 2.3 stroker kit internals.

 

Well this is kinda already pushing the budget as far as parts go but im still on the fence between eagle and manley.

My blocks already at the machine shop getting Bored, Honed, Cleaned, Decked and cranks being balanced.

I would love to do a stroker but right now i think im good as is seeing as this build was more of a suprise then a plan. Where did you get your internals from pensport?

As far as rod and main bolts im not sure if its necessary for me seeing as i dont ever pland on being over 400hp, but we'll see.

 

well if your block is getting bored, standard size pistons will be too small. itll cost the same for .020 over. i think the h-beam rods come with arp rod bolts(they did on my talon anyway) main bolts are a good idea though, they are only 60. you will also prolly need new bearings for the balence shaf elimantor kit, the ones in the block aren't easy to turn.

 

Don't worry about rod bolts unless your are gonna be pushing the rpm's. What you have listed will work fine, but what is going to break the bank is all of the oem stuff needed for the rebuild. Oil pump, water pump, gasket kit, belts, etc. are a lot more expensive than you think and can eat up money in a hurry. At least that was my experience.

 

It says standard bore there only because i havnt selected my bore size yet because i havnt ordered them.

On the main studs i read somewhere you have to have somthing done to the block so they fit? i dont remember what they said but have you heard of this?

As far as oem stuff yeah i now its expenisve i remember from the rebuild on my eclipse. Damn Mitsubishi.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

why overbore, unless his bores are out of round then its a waste.

 

The cause to this rebuild is my piston skirt failing and scratching the **** out of my #4 cylinder, so yeah overbore is a must. But i dont know the bore size yet wether it will 85.5mm or 86mm, i dont think you can go much more then that on our blocks.

 

You'll also need a cometic 86mm head gasket. that will work with an 85.5mm bore(.020 over). I'd get the ARP main studs just to play it safe but I think the eagle rods come with ARP fasteners already? You can probably get by with your oem pumps, depending on the mileage, people on here will advise against it though. it's just an extra level of safety. it's no fun to rebuild your motor and have your oil pump fail.

 

i have main studs in my car. they just go in just like the head studs.

 

ok thanks i really had no idea what the guy was talking about when he said that. I hade them in the eclipse and yeah just put them in like the head studs. Ill prolly go ahead and get them then.

 

looks good, but you really haven't said what you are shooting for, drag, street, autox etc.. meaning do you want torque, speed, HP.. I would look at some different rods if you plan to go over 450 later on and 27psi +.. and as posted earlier, changing out the oem Oil pump, water pump, gasket kit, belts, etc is a gret precautionary measure.. GL

 

Well i guess i would be more towards Auto X but mainly its my DD, honestly as far as hp goals go im thinking somewhere around 400, but its still up in there. When the car goes back together its going to be stock as far as turbo, intercooler, fuel, etc... for now anyway.