Anybody running close to 700 whp with drop in pistons and rods?

 

If you are looking for that kind of power, heck... if you are wanting to exceed 500awhp (stock block capacity).. then you really need to just do it right the first time and you won't have any issues.. There are way too many horror stories regarding drop in pistons and rods.. Especially when it is done with the motor in the car.. It is a little safe out of the car that way you can get a good hone on the walls and properly hot tank the cylinder walls.. Good luck!

 

+1

never time to do it right, always time to do it over

 

if your block is in spec,and assembled properly there is no reason why it cant be done.its not the wrong way of doing it either if done right.hope that helps.

 

I would also like to hear from some higher hp guys as well. Anyone also have any horror stories going the drop in route? I haven't really ever heard of it failing. I'm at about 10k and am looking to do the eagle/wiseco drop in combo with a 6262 on e85.

 

There is nothing working with drop in pistons and rods for 700whp. Are you guys high??

 

whats the difference with drop in pistons and a built motor?....no balance shaft come on now i don't see why you cant make 700whp if you can make 620+ on bone stock block!

 

wow. All i have to say is don't be dumb

 

There is nothing wrong with just dropping in new pistons and rods and cranking the boost. Buschur does it all the time. TTP does it all the time. buschur has a machine that fits right over the block in your car and rehones the cylinders. This topic has been beat to death and Dave B finally put pics online and showed everyone. I think it was JAM that was disputing it saying it wasn't a good idea.

 

Either way who cares. If you don't agree with it then move along. No one is here asking people to accept their methods.

 

their isnt really a difference with "drop in pistons" and building a motor as long as done properly. i would still rec. rehoning to have a proper break in and making sure the bore is correct on the cylinder walls. depending on the vehicles milage, i would take the block apart first maybe and chek the walls. if they have excessive wear, scoring, or out of round i would go with a bigger piston and have it rebored to have a clean proper serface for the break in.

 

Okay... I'm pretty sure if you read that TTP USED to recommend and do it, until they ended up with issues from doing so and does NOT recommend it anymore.. I am trying to help some one from having to end up rebuilding it the "right" way down the road..

 

If the piston to wall is correct, and there is no taper in the bore then there is no difference between pulling the block out or doing it in car. The thing is getting the piston to wall clearance correct and not excessive. On a 700whp car it is worthwhile to pull it out though to make sure everything is done correctly. As much as you have to tear it down its not much more work to pull the motor out the rest of the way. That being said its possible to still do it in car if you really must. I wouldnt build a 700whp steel rod motor, so it would have to come out to get clearanced for aluminum rods, but thats our preference.

 

All the drop in pistons I have seen are .035-.004. A little on the tight side for 700whp. You would have to run engine for thousands of miles to loosen them up before leaning on it that hard. Most horror stories are from the 90% dsm rule. If some one worked on it 90% of the time the failure it from poor mechanic hands.

 

Not to get to far off topic, but why wouldn't you use steel rods for 700hp and why do you prefer aluminum?