Thanks, but as per post #2:

 

If you have adjusted the rod as far as it will adjust , then thus for, you have no more clutch .... My exeddy only lasted 20,000 miles also ..

i ended up going with QuarterMaster from Map performance .

 

I'm not sure that's true. The bite point is still in the normal postion, engagement and pedal feel are normal and after thinking about it, dialing the pedal out a few turns didn't change in terms of bite point etc.

I wouldn't be surprised if I returned it to the stock position and the bite point is still normal.

On top of that the clutch still grabs all the power (around 300 bhp atw) no problem whatsoever.

It also hasn't had that hard a life, so whilst I'm not ruling a clutch rebuild out, I don't think it's a certainty at this stage either. I'll double check all the selector linkages, bushes and brackets when I get a moment and report back, but hopefully that will lead to a solution.

 

Mine would get real tuff getting into 1st or reverse from a stop .. once i got rolling no problems , went threw all the gears .. adjusting the pedal worked for about 6months .. i ended up just wearing the disks down ..after a while just didnt want to go in the gear any longer ... Now if the car was turned off , it would go threw the gears fine .. but while it was running ..wouldnt ..
Are you sure you are adjusting the pedal right under the dash ..

 

Definitely adjusted the clutch pedal push rod so that as much of the thread as possible is firewall side of the retaining nut. It made a small difference to the problem, but not much.

Did you measure the friction material discs from yours once removed to ensure they had been worn down beyond their useful life?

I'm struggling to see how worn friction plates on their own will make gear selection from a stop difficult?

 

bump for an update

 

Nothing more to add, really. It's dark every night before I get home from work and the car is parked outside.

I'm working from home tomorrow so will take a look. My list of things to try reads as follows:

1) Remove gearstick housing cover and ensure that everything is connected properly.
2) Check the gear selector cable bushes at the gearbox end and the bracket that holds the gear selector cable in place.
3) Check the clutch cylinder rod cannot be pushed out by hand (would indicate throw out bearing problem)
4) Adjust the gear selector cable at the gearstick housing end, as per the post above.
5) Adjust clutch pedal push rod to "normal" position and see if the bite point is ridiculously low.

If that doesn't find the cure, then I don't know what I'll do!

 

Ok, well I've been through all the above and after taking the car out on a long run, with the clutch down and the gearbox in first, the car will pull forward slightly, so it seems it is the clutch after all and probably warped discs as there is no noise from the clutch at the moment.

Has anyone had a similar problem and is there a fix for this that doesn't involve replacing the disks (longer adjustment rod behind the clutch pedal, etc)?

 

bump for help!! same problem here,somebody must know how to fix this since im almost shooting the car!

 

any updates?

 

My mechanic has stated that he thinks it's the friction plates being warped, so I'm going to replace them and keep my fingers crossed that it solves the problem. If it doesn't, then I'll probably just shoot myself as it's going to cost me around $1,000.

 

u are absolutely 100%correct. its warped friction plates causing this.. i have this problem now just trying to make this clutch work as long as possible... clutch rebuild will solve ur problem

 

careful. the standard rebuild kit won't replace the part that is warped. If you're not doing the clutch install yourself (ie. you're paying for the labor) just buy a new clutch and have that installed. you'll save money in the long run.

 

to the OP...let us know when you remove the clutch what is the part that is accepted..My clutch doenst slip at all..I launch the car @7K with Drag Radials and it grabs like hell...

 

bmp for update