I had this issue with mine.......tried everything, plugs, fuel pump, all kinda stuff.

From the time you hit boost it would almost feel like something with holding you back from behind and you hit all the boost but its like it starts pulling timing and turn up fuel, lots of black smoke even backfires. I had to try another ecu and it cleared up a lil bit, so it could be ur tune for real.........Do a boost leak test to also, cant hurt...

 

Too rich and/or you're hitting boost cut. Get it retuned.

 

If u bought the car from georgia chances are.... it was tuned by battlground performance or topspeed performance.... they are both out of atlanta and from my ears they arent very well know and ive heard some bad things bout top speed. One of my buddies had his sti tuned at Top Speed needless to say he was putting a new motor in it few weeks later!!!

 

This sucks....

I am figuring it is a tune issue.... Sucks because i have to drive hours on end to get one done....

Any suggestions on the best place to go with the least drive for me?...

I am located in between albalny and syracuse ny.

 

STM in Rochester, NY.

 

You are more then welcome to stop by and we can take a look at whats going on.


-Em

 

Hope you dont have engine damage

 

I bet it is something that happened to me. It took me about 2 weeks to figure out. Take off your EGR valve, it is right underneath your throttle body, it has (2) 12 mm bolts in it, and 2 vacuum lines. Take a little bit of carb/choke cleaner and spray inside of it, use a small wire brush and clean it really good, then take a air hose ON LOW PRESSURE and put it into one of the ports and SLOWLY put air in and out of it and make the needle raise and lower. Repeat this about 3-4 times and spray some cleaner on the needle as your doing the last 2 cycles. This absolutely drove me CRAZY for a few weeks. Keep in mind this was when the car was pretty much stock with the only mods being a AEM intake, HKS exhaust and a Koyo radiator, NO TUNE or anything. IF worse comes to worse, you only wasted 15 minutes of time and probably fixed your problem. If you want to be safe the dealer has them for about $70, and they have to be ordered (at least around me) and I did so when I did all my upgrades.

 

As you're in Utica, why not drive down to STM and have them fix your Evo?

Edit: looks like I was late to the party.

 

I have been talking with the OP about this... this could have been a car i tuned possibly. In which case, There arent very many load cells i dont adjust as well as adjusting the scale. I do however i know it was at least 95* outside when we did the tune, maybe hotter.

Id get an actual boost leak test done, or do it yourself. Typically you wont be able to see it, you will hear it at that point. WIth the weather change, its probably time for a retune. Are you able to pull the map ? If so, i can tell you right away if it is a car i have messed with or not. In either case, if it isnt a boost leak, or fouled/incorrectly gapped plugs, it has to be a tuning issue.

 

any resolution?

 

** RESOLVED **

I parked it shortly after creating this thread for the winter....

I Made a boost leak tester 2 weeks ago and pressure tested the system and there was a gaping hole in the LICP coupling that I had over looked somehow while I was going over the system prior to storing the car for the winter.

So a 10 dollar home depot boost leak tester, and a 10 dollar silicone coupling later, I am ready to go for the spring.

Thanks to bigric for help via PM's

--I now preach to everyone owning a turbo vehicle that they own a boost leak tester.

 

How does a problem with the tune just come out of nowhere. It is almost annoying that anytime a question gets posted a million people jump in and say it's ur tune. This makes tuners happy cuz they can fix what is actually wrong with the car and fiddle around a Lil with the laptop hooked up and charge you.

As far as your actual problem goes have you done anything to the car recently before the problem started?

 

Goes to show how important boost leak tests are...

 

also need to mention that a $10 coupler is what caused the problem in the first place. A quality coupler that is not going to burst should be in the $25 range. Also make sure you are using t-bolt clamps, and not the cheap 30 cent worm clamps.