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URGENT!! 2.3L Rebuild Problem

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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URGENT!! 2.3L Rebuild Problem

Hey all!!

I have a really urgent problem, that I need to work out ASAP.

Basically, my engine is currently at the engine builders and has a problem. When he goes to spin the crank the rods do not clear the block/girdle.

Im using;
-4G64 100mm cast crank
-Carrillo Pro-H Conrods
-CP Stroker pistons

He believes that the carrillo's are just too thick and it is causing clearence issues! Of all the tomei 2.3L kits he has installed, he has never had this issue!

What do you guy reccomend? Machine block? (my engine builder doesnt like this option and wont do it), new rods?

The rods cost me big money, is it worth getting new rods? What other options do I have. Ill post up pictures when my mechanic sends them.

Cheers,
Alex
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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it's nothing new, having to clearance the block for the rods....

some block / rod combo's clear, while others dont.....all using the same evo block???
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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Whats involved in modifiing the block??

Many people done it?
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 06:08 PM
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Okay, just spoke to my engine builder, the rod is 4~5mm too thick, and he is not prepaired to take out that much metal.

Im looking for a 150mm rod, that is strong, but will fit without notching the block.

Thanks for all your help guys!!
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 06:14 PM
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Notch the block, right on the bottom where the cylinder wall is etc. I have had to do this many times and it is not a issue. The rings etc never make it that far down. Good luck.

Aaron
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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^ Apparently the rods are just WAY too big.

Both the machinist and engine builder are not keen on the idea.

So looks like new rods are on the cards. Either that, or Ill spend the $$ now and get a new crank + rods??? Keeping the pistons as the block has been machined to suit.

As I have 2.3L pistons (stroker) is it possible to run off the shelf 156mm rods and 94mm crank?? or 97mm crank?
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:25 PM
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You didn't read my build thread enough! I covered this. Just remove the web material, buddies of mine run the carillo rods in 2.3l's

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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^ Hmmm, okay mate.

Thanks for that. Do you have any other pictures? Did much matieral have to be shaved? Did it take long??
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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That's the only picture I have. I basically removed the entire webbed section and made it flush with the main wall of the block. The 2nd and 3rd cylinder are the real issues and I removed more than was need for my rods. Give it one more look.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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^ did your mate with the carrillos have the same issue???

Was it much material?

MY engine builder has my crank in and torqued down already... lol. Im all panic'd.. haha.

Thanks for any and all advice you guys are giving me!
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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Where is that AMS guide for machining the block???
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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Has anyone else got more pictures/Advice??

Any workshops do this?

Does anyone else have this problem with carillo's??
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 10:31 PM
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sir you need to grind the block to clearance a STROKER crankshaft in a factory block. No big surprise here. Get a carbide bit and a die grinder and get to work.

DO NOT GRIND OR CLEARANCE THE ROD... ONLY GRIND THE BLOCK.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 11:15 PM
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Hmmm. My engine builder has never had to touch the block.
Apparently the Japanese stroker kits fit fine???
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
DO NOT GRIND OR CLEARANCE THE ROD... ONLY GRIND THE BLOCK.
good call!
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