IX bov w/ a 35r?
Intercooler = AMS , Buschur , ETS
Intake Kit = take your pic
If you really want some fun with that 35R, put a 2.3 in your ride..... add about 40-60 ft lbs of torque and watch that turbo spool up pretty nicely.....
Are you doing anything with an intake manifold?
what bov are you going with?
Intake Kit = take your pic
If you really want some fun with that 35R, put a 2.3 in your ride..... add about 40-60 ft lbs of torque and watch that turbo spool up pretty nicely.....
Are you doing anything with an intake manifold?
what bov are you going with?
Last edited by 2003lancerevo8; Nov 28, 2009 at 01:51 PM.
I just put my forge rs on a few hrs ago dude, ho-leee sh*ttttt the thing is amazing. Never gonna need another BOV again thats for sure. I wana buy another to put on a pedestal lol. The car pulls so insanely now that my clutch started slipping, which Im honestly not even mad about Im happy as hell.
The Buschur 4" race core would probably benefit you best, though youd be perfectly fine with the 3.5" deluxe core too.
The Buschur 4" race core would probably benefit you best, though youd be perfectly fine with the 3.5" deluxe core too.
Hi everyone,
Since this topic is right up my alley, hopefully I can provide some interesting insight here.
I agree that holding boost is the key reason for swapping out the factory valve, but another reason is throttle response. It's commonly assumed that since diverter valves flow air, more must be better right? Well, our testing has shown this is not always the case.
The key to the best possible throttle response and least lag when shifting gears (within the physical limits of the turbo system of course) is having the valve set so that it only vents enough air to prevent compressor surge, rather than indiscriminately dumping huge amounts of air.
Why? Only venting enough air to prevent surge will result in a little bit of pressure remaining in the intercooler and piping during a gearshift, meaning when you re-open the throttle, there is some boost pressure rather than none. The end result in our test case was a 30% faster return to peak boost.
The test details can be found here:
http://racedotcom.com/showthread.php?t=27445
& here:
http://racedotcom.com/showthread.php?t=27446
I hope this is of interest!
Best regards,
GFB Pete
Since this topic is right up my alley, hopefully I can provide some interesting insight here.
I agree that holding boost is the key reason for swapping out the factory valve, but another reason is throttle response. It's commonly assumed that since diverter valves flow air, more must be better right? Well, our testing has shown this is not always the case.
The key to the best possible throttle response and least lag when shifting gears (within the physical limits of the turbo system of course) is having the valve set so that it only vents enough air to prevent compressor surge, rather than indiscriminately dumping huge amounts of air.
Why? Only venting enough air to prevent surge will result in a little bit of pressure remaining in the intercooler and piping during a gearshift, meaning when you re-open the throttle, there is some boost pressure rather than none. The end result in our test case was a 30% faster return to peak boost.
The test details can be found here:
http://racedotcom.com/showthread.php?t=27445
& here:
http://racedotcom.com/showthread.php?t=27446
I hope this is of interest!
Best regards,
GFB Pete
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WTB[SouthEast]: Evo IX oem bov
pqek666
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Mines Evo IX
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GOT EM! Bunch of flappers on this site I tell ya man.

