My 2006 Evo MR clutch install/review

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Dec 10, 2009 | 05:15 AM
  #16  
Quote: leaving the ACD banjo bolt was the original plan, but really on the ground and the time it would take to back it out a little at a time as you pull it off the tranny is unneccessary. it takes less time to just pinch the line first them take out the banjo to remove the 6th t-case bolt. i waste any time...and bleeding the ACD system is simple!

not to mention trying to get to the banjo with the car on the ground is almost impossible...a lift would make it easier. there was just NO leverage
I agree with you on that one. Even with the lift, I was up to my shoulder in the car to get that bolt loose.

I wonder if dropping the subframe like Mitsubishi shows, would be easier than trying to wrestle that transmission back in the hole. It always comes out easier than it goes in. 5spd cars are a bear, but the 6spd just plain suck. Props to you for doing that in a home garage.
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Dec 10, 2009 | 06:38 AM
  #17  
so did you disconnect the PS line or did you have enough slack to leave it connected with the subframe on the ground?
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Dec 10, 2009 | 08:09 AM
  #18  
Quote: so did you disconnect the PS line or did you have enough slack to leave it connected with the subframe on the ground?

i left all PS line connected. i just tok out the one bolt to free some slack. There was plenty of slack.

Sean
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Dec 10, 2009 | 12:39 PM
  #19  
Quote: I agree with you on that one. Even with the lift, I was up to my shoulder in the car to get that bolt loose.

I wonder if dropping the subframe like Mitsubishi shows, would be easier than trying to wrestle that transmission back in the hole. It always comes out easier than it goes in. 5spd cars are a bear, but the 6spd just plain suck. Props to you for doing that in a home garage.

yeah... thats what i did and wrote in my write-up. Definately drop the subframe! Its quick, and doesnt take too much more work to do.

you dont need to really take it all the way out...but dropping it a few inches gives enough room for the tranny to clear and drop almost straight down.

Sean
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May 4, 2010 | 03:27 PM
  #20  
Please HELP!!
I know this forum is a bit old but I just finished the clutch install on my 06 MR and wow it was fun. I used this wirte up to supplement the old 5 speed write up that is in the how to section link. I opted for leaving the banjo bolt in and just taking it out with a stubby wrench and a pry bar which took some good effort but it broke loose and came out without too much trouble. Putting it bak together and getting good torque on the bolts seemed like the most difficult part.

Th one problem I have run into though is that the VSS isnt working or at least isnt sending a signal to the speedo or the ECU (my turbo timer is tapped into the VSS wire at the ecu and it shows no real speed signal). As i move up to 2-2.5k RPM it starts to sputter violently and sounds a bit like an industrial air compressor as the entire car shakes. I immediately took it back down to first and kept the RPMs low as I limped it back to the garage I was working on it in. Can the VSS be plugged in backwards because I wasnt sure which way to plug it in when i looked at it so i tried one and it worked no prob so i figured it was right. Also is the VSS for the six speed an induction style signal pick up or does it use a gear (NOT SURE IF THE VIII AND THE IX HAVE DIFFERENT METHODS EITHER). When I removed it it took some effort and then popped out quickly. Ilooked at it and only saw a little black box and no where that looked like a gear driven shaft could have protruded from. I was worried at first tat I broke it but i looked at the box and there wasnt any eveidence of sheared plastic either.

Also does the ECU use the VSS to calculate fuel load requirements or anything with the MIVEC timing. those were my initial thoughs considering that it would be reading zero even though the engine is speeding up.

There are no CELs showing up so I need some help diagnosing this ASAP.
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May 4, 2010 | 03:29 PM
  #21  
The rest of the clutch install went well though
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May 4, 2010 | 04:26 PM
  #22  
great writeup, u made it seem too easy
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May 4, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #23  
lol i did this to my mr on the garage floor with 0 help i had to bench press the tranny back in it was rediculous but worth it and easy after you do it once.
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Mar 20, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #24  
Help! I'm having trouble releasing my TOB from the PP using the acces hole on the bottom side of the trans. I am having trouble finding a tool to reach those 12mm bolts on the PP. What is a "1/4 wobble"?
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Mar 20, 2011 | 08:01 PM
  #25  
Got more pictures and details of everything you took loose to drop the sub-frame?
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Mar 20, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #26  
Awesome write up! Thanks so much man! You are super nice and cool to take the time and put this up here. Much respect and thanks a ton, seriously man.
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Mar 20, 2011 | 08:42 PM
  #27  
thanks bro this thread is very helpfull
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Aug 7, 2013 | 10:19 AM
  #28  
I am doing this as of now and let me say that this is a pain in the neck and when you lower the tranny please try not to take off all the bolts and nuts that hold up the sub frame because it took me a full day just to get the subframe back in its original spot.I got the bolt behind the banjo by using a ratchet strap tied onto a box end wrench and that tcase is very heavy to lift so becareful and good luck.This was by far one of the hardest clutch installs I ever did and that rear engine is a nightmare due to the limited amount of space you will have but it's all good experience and you save a bunch.
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May 13, 2015 | 12:34 PM
  #29  
will be following this for my new competition stage 2 clutch 😁
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May 13, 2015 | 09:08 PM
  #30  
If anyone who takes their 6-speed out could weigh it I would be appreciative. I have seen a lot of quoted weights.
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