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Any engine builders ever added deck height to 4g63 or 4g64?

Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #16  
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Eric,
I think we should be more concerned about the cylinder head than the block.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:31 PM
  #17  
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Perhaps CRcain knows where it is, but there was a chap on Lancer Register that had done a 12mm deck plate and was running 162mm rods in his 2.4. He worked for Triumph or some auto house and had access to everything he would need to make it happen. I couldnt find it and cant remember the specifics.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 05:47 AM
  #18  
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forget all these desk plates! someone needs to get a bl00dy ally block designed with a taller deck! you can have whatever you want then. Tell decks, larger bores, lighter block, etc......

come on David!!!

The Ford Cossy guys get them......

and before everyone starts saying 'Allys nots as strong as iron' well dont your right, but that dosen't stop the V8 guys building just as strong ally blocks as iron!

Chris.

Last edited by chuntington101; Jan 11, 2010 at 05:55 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 10:27 AM
  #19  
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A deck plate like that could allow to use a 106 mm stroke crankshaft, and still have a 1.7 rod ratio using 180 mm rods, it would be a beast, i suspect....
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 10:45 AM
  #20  
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Bump for a great idea and hopefully someone (BR) can make this happen sooner than later. My buddy did his Civic back in 2000, decked and sleeved for a T3 turbo. As already mentioned bore, sleeves, gasket, spacer with oil/water passages, gasket. It can't be that simple can it? (minus the machine work/math for design)

Last edited by pfunk47; Jan 12, 2010 at 10:52 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #21  
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I'm sure someone will jump on it and claim it as their own idea. I think it would be cool if someone did it. It seems fairly simple, if you have the means.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 04:37 PM
  #22  
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Big Block evo

It sounds in theory on here very doable. Does anyone know the price to sleeve an evo block?The spacer could use orings on both sides to seal and just use larger (mm) head bolts One inch Longer to go through the spacer to seal the head to the spacer to the block. While we are at it could we throw in a timing chain instead of the dirty strechin belt?
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 10:14 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
Perhaps CRcain knows where it is, but there was a chap on Lancer Register that had done a 12mm deck plate and was running 162mm rods in his 2.4. He worked for Triumph or some auto house and had access to everything he would need to make it happen. I couldnt find it and cant remember the specifics.
I found te trhead you're talking about, i also remembered to have seen that on MLR, it's here:
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...ghlight=darton
Unfortunately no pics about realization, but in my opinion the idea of an aluminium plate with two head gaskets, or some viton orings for keeping oil and water between block and plate should do the job, as regards the sleeves i think thre is no problem at all, what do you think?
The idea of a 2520 cc engine with 1.7 rod ratio is really interesting, and at the end of all, the only custom parts are the rods, but i think they can be made, in 180 mm lenght, or not?
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #24  
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YOU CANNOT HAVE AN INTERRUPTION IN THE CYLINDER LINER!!! IT MUST BE ONE PIECE!!!

this requires a full sleeve. You cannot add a sandwhich plate with two headgaskets..UBER FAIL.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:42 PM
  #25  
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What about HPA?
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:15 AM
  #26  
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Which interruption? The plate would keep oil and water, but the liners are in one piece, block and plate have to me machined to fit an unique set of liners....
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by giangi
A deck plate like that could allow to use a 106 mm stroke crankshaft, and still have a 1.7 rod ratio using 180 mm rods, it would be a beast, i suspect....

A 106mm stroke? Do you realize how high your piston speed would be at high rpm??

106mm stroke @ 8000 rpm = 14.1m/s piston speed

That would be equivalent to taking a OEM 4g63 crank(88mm) to almost 10,000 rpm.

For racing, just hitting that rpm every once in a great while wouldn't hurt too much. If you were daily driving it though, 6226 rpm would be the same as taking an 88mm motor up to 7500....and would take a toll on it. Don't get me wrong, you would have torque for days, but high revs would be out of the question if you wanted to maintain any sort of durability if you planned on street driving.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:50 AM
  #28  
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It was a theoric option, i know the problem about piston speed with a so long stroke, the longer rod would help about reliability, but the problem would remain the same, and i suspect that there would be another great problem as regards clearances, with a 180 mm rod and a 106 crank.....
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 08:38 AM
  #29  
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Come on guys! forget Deck plates! go for an all out ally race block! then you can build in any additioanl features you want! you want mopre clearence for longer strock cranks? cant do it with a 4G64 block, but you can with a new ally race block...

If you are going to do it you may as well do it once and get it right!

I say get someone like RHS or DART to design and cast a race ally 4G64 hight block that will let a 4G63 head drop STRIAGHT onto. have the ductile iron liners interlinked (thats one piece of iron that forms all 4 liners, not 4 sepearate liners) liners for ultimate strength. you could even start to design a custom sump with a drysump pump installed internally. and a sump that is a structural part of the engine. How about cross bolted main caps? what size fasteners do you want? how about 5 or even 6 head bolts per cylinder? How about a totaly dry desk surface?????

Then just do a tall deck version for the guys wanting a crazy rod to stroke raito or the guys wanting massive displacement.

Cheers

Chris.

Last edited by chuntington101; Jan 13, 2010 at 08:44 AM.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 08:56 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by GotWheelHop
A 106mm stroke? Do you realize how high your piston speed would be at high rpm??

106mm stroke @ 8000 rpm = 14.1m/s piston speed

That would be equivalent to taking a OEM 4g63 crank(88mm) to almost 10,000 rpm.

For racing, just hitting that rpm every once in a great while wouldn't hurt too much. If you were daily driving it though, 6226 rpm would be the same as taking an 88mm motor up to 7500....and would take a toll on it. Don't get me wrong, you would have torque for days, but high revs would be out of the question if you wanted to maintain any sort of durability if you planned on street driving.
106mm stroke @ 8k is 28.2m/sec NOT 14.1

an equivalent piston speed with a 88mm stroke would happen at 9637RPM

giani, I was under the impression that you're weren't going to sleeve it.... I think you understand how a deck plate/sleeve system works.
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