install buschur upper i/c pipe
install buschur upper i/c pipe
please help me i didn't think i would have to remove the front end but it looks now like i will if anyone has done this please tell me how to intall
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
At a minimum, you'll have to remove the undertray. I removed the bumper as well, which is only like 6 screws and some plastic clips, since I was putting in a new FMIC at same time.
You'll want to install the battery first, since the positive cables will not have much play at all. In fact I did it the opposite of what they show in their pics. That required fabricating 1 new ground line, but I think it works out better. You can see how I did it in the pic. The red plastic terminal cover will need to be trimmed down with a Dremel to clip on properly, if you want to retain it.
Other thing is the L shaped 90 degree section of hose from bov to mass air pipe they provide might have to be cut to fit. The factory hose is a larger diameter, so it can not be used in place. To remedy this I cut down the short section of the L so that the stub on the MAP stuck up into the elbow, and then I used a third wide T-bolt clamp at the 90 to keep it open. Without the clamp, it looked like it was starting to kink. *EDIT* See below post for further explanation.
Instead of all the sections of hard/flex tubing going from intake manifold to bov, I ran one section of Aeroquip braided stainless, which cleans it up a little, and eliminates a whole bunch of clamped fittings.
You'll want to install the battery first, since the positive cables will not have much play at all. In fact I did it the opposite of what they show in their pics. That required fabricating 1 new ground line, but I think it works out better. You can see how I did it in the pic. The red plastic terminal cover will need to be trimmed down with a Dremel to clip on properly, if you want to retain it.
Other thing is the L shaped 90 degree section of hose from bov to mass air pipe they provide might have to be cut to fit. The factory hose is a larger diameter, so it can not be used in place. To remedy this I cut down the short section of the L so that the stub on the MAP stuck up into the elbow, and then I used a third wide T-bolt clamp at the 90 to keep it open. Without the clamp, it looked like it was starting to kink. *EDIT* See below post for further explanation.
Instead of all the sections of hard/flex tubing going from intake manifold to bov, I ran one section of Aeroquip braided stainless, which cleans it up a little, and eliminates a whole bunch of clamped fittings.
Last edited by Hammerli; Oct 31, 2003 at 09:16 PM.
Better pic showing kink in neck (red arrow). This was with the hose cut down somewhat. After I cut it down further, and added the clamp to that area, it is fine. This was also before I removed all of the lines from intake to BOV, so they are still visible, although this was the first iteration, where I had replaced all the factory lines with thick wall silicone lines covered with black flex sheathing, hence the blue visible.
Last edited by Hammerli; Oct 31, 2003 at 08:54 PM.
Originally posted by 5StarSuzuki
Looks like im not the only one with bov tube problems! Its even harder without having the bov fastened to the top of the ic pipe. Mine makes this terrible noise from being kinked.
Looks like im not the only one with bov tube problems! Its even harder without having the bov fastened to the top of the ic pipe. Mine makes this terrible noise from being kinked.
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They are not hard to install at all. Just be sure to tighten all your clamps. I used all T-bolt because they are designed to take torque, unlike worm gear clamps that are not by design. It was funny to see all of the people saying they had loose clamps on their Evos when new. Factory torque specs on the worm gear clamps is 53 +/- 9 INCH-lb. I guarantee the people that said they were loose have them way overtightened. On the two clamps on the factory intake air pipe, the spec is only 35 +/-8 INCH-lb. Also the T-bolt clamps won't dig into the silicone fittings like the worm gear clamps. If you go with T-bolts, just make sure you choose the appropriate size, as they have a more finite range they will fit than worm gear clamps.
If you have specific questions, you can pm me, but it is really easy.
If you have specific questions, you can pm me, but it is really easy.
Originally posted by Hammerli
If the line had the same shape as the stock piece, which is more of a gooseneck, it would be perfect. I have a call into a industrial supply shop here in town, trying to get a silicone hose formed to correct dimensions. Not exactly a big job, so I am low an priority list, but it really bugs me having it rigged with a T-bolt clamp as a kink eliminator.
If the line had the same shape as the stock piece, which is more of a gooseneck, it would be perfect. I have a call into a industrial supply shop here in town, trying to get a silicone hose formed to correct dimensions. Not exactly a big job, so I am low an priority list, but it really bugs me having it rigged with a T-bolt clamp as a kink eliminator.
ou may be able to find a 1" or whatever piece of pipe and have it bent to you need at a muffler shop and just use a couple of small joint hoses to get it in there.
The hose on our car fits perfectly. From what I can see in the pictures the hoses need to just be trimmed shorter to get rid of the kink.
This is the closest fit we could find and if it is cut to length it fits perfectly.
Sorry to hear you are done with us 5 star.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
This is the closest fit we could find and if it is cut to length it fits perfectly.
Sorry to hear you are done with us 5 star.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Alrighty, funny thing that I just saw this post and the one about the MAS pipe.
Hammerli, Phil, that was good enough to post the pictures above just happens to be at our shop right now. I saw the hose and the clamp on his car and asked what the deal was with it. I was going to offer to fix it but didn't want to seem pushy. After reading 5stars remarks I went out and asked if he minded me having a shot at getting the hose to fit right. He said he had no problem with it.
All I ended up doing was cutting the BOV return hose that we supply with the kit about 3/4" shorter. I also had to loosen the clamps to the turbo/MAS end and slightly rotate the MAS pipe, maybe 3-4 degrees. The hose now fits perfectly without a kink in it just like it does on our car.
I guess what I am getting at is in order to build a part that flows perfectly and eliminates as many bends as we did on the i/c pipe sometimes you might have to do a little adjustment to get it in. There aren't marks on it to let you know exactly where to turn it, you basically have to play with it a little. It is part of building/modifying your car.
I hope this helps you guys see that the parts are correctly built, just sometimes need a few more minutes of looking at them and seeing what it would take to make it just how you want it.
5Star, I am certain this was the case with you too. I would love to do whatever it takes to make you happy and keep you as a customer. Give us a call.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
p.s. Thanks for letting me adjust your hose and drop you nuts Phil! haha
Hammerli, Phil, that was good enough to post the pictures above just happens to be at our shop right now. I saw the hose and the clamp on his car and asked what the deal was with it. I was going to offer to fix it but didn't want to seem pushy. After reading 5stars remarks I went out and asked if he minded me having a shot at getting the hose to fit right. He said he had no problem with it.
All I ended up doing was cutting the BOV return hose that we supply with the kit about 3/4" shorter. I also had to loosen the clamps to the turbo/MAS end and slightly rotate the MAS pipe, maybe 3-4 degrees. The hose now fits perfectly without a kink in it just like it does on our car.
I guess what I am getting at is in order to build a part that flows perfectly and eliminates as many bends as we did on the i/c pipe sometimes you might have to do a little adjustment to get it in. There aren't marks on it to let you know exactly where to turn it, you basically have to play with it a little. It is part of building/modifying your car.
I hope this helps you guys see that the parts are correctly built, just sometimes need a few more minutes of looking at them and seeing what it would take to make it just how you want it.
5Star, I am certain this was the case with you too. I would love to do whatever it takes to make you happy and keep you as a customer. Give us a call.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
p.s. Thanks for letting me adjust your hose and drop you nuts Phil! haha
I AM A F'ING MORON!
I HAD THE BOV FACING THE WRONG DIRECTION!
The funny sound was not due to my kink, but my stupidity!
I reversed the two and it fit MUCH easier. I got the kink out by cutting allittle tubing off. (I had it working the first time but wanted to add allittle length to the tubing and clean it up; so I replaced it with a tube too long and put the bov on backwards!)
Hope I didn't f'k anything up!
Anyhow, props to David Buschur for the openess on the support. And I WILL be buying his intercooler kit as soon as I get the money!
I HAD THE BOV FACING THE WRONG DIRECTION!
The funny sound was not due to my kink, but my stupidity!
I reversed the two and it fit MUCH easier. I got the kink out by cutting allittle tubing off. (I had it working the first time but wanted to add allittle length to the tubing and clean it up; so I replaced it with a tube too long and put the bov on backwards!)
Hope I didn't f'k anything up!
Anyhow, props to David Buschur for the openess on the support. And I WILL be buying his intercooler kit as soon as I get the money!



j/k