Heres pics of my Xede maps from my last dyno session. I started at 296whp/271tq with 21psi to redline. This was all on a Mustang Dyno. I ended up laying down 310whp/279tq with heatsoak after I got done trying to tune it myself.

Anyway here are my custom maps:

 

heres my timing

 

dude it looks like you took out too much timing. Specially in the 3-4000rpm range you're supposed to add timing not pull back. Your spool up must take forever. Also, under light throttle you should'nt touch the base maps too much.

 

Thats a 91/92 octane map. When you lean out your MAF map, the ECU automatically adds timing which you have to account for. And for 3-4k, thats only 3/10ths of a single degree of timing getting pulled by me, which is nothing at all.

Also for light throttle I added a good amount of fuel which was dyno proven to give 10-15whp before the turbo is fully spooled. I threw a bunch of gas at it, then leaned it out once the turbo is fully spooled. I can up the dyno map if you like.

 

I would say you have a lot more room for timing. And you MAF is pig rich at the redline.

Eric

 

I was just playin it safe at redline.

Could I lean it out a lil at redline you think, without a wideband??

 

ya -7.0 I think will be ok. I have to check my custom tune to compare. You have enough timing pulled anyway.

Eric

 

Also load point 10.

3500 and up. just clean that up for a smooth transition. you don't want to go from 0 to -5.

Funny doing to driving a tuning yesterday I really did not get over the 60 load point so that lower load point tuning is important because the car gets into those load points all the time.

Eric

 

-7??? I have it at -10.5 currently. You should upload your custom map!!!

I wish we could have a tuning thread.. I was hoping more people would share their maps =P

 

ok I'll fill in load point 10 all the way up to 7k then.. Should I use the same numbers I used for load point 15,20, etc?

 

Yes I rarely get above 50 or 60 on the Load portion.... Even on the Dyno

 

Yep A 310whp car will usually see around 60% max load. We like to leave a lot of overhead for the next stages

Cheers,
shiv

 

No go up slowly. Like say -10 is at 25 and up. go -5.6 in 15 and go -3.2 in 10. think of it like the car is moving and building and moving throw the load points. You want to make it smooth so there is not a large jump like 0 to -5.

I'm sure we will have a tuning board soon.
Eric

 

Oh ya. Plenty. I think I go speed density before upgrading the MAF.

Eric

 

As for the maps, they look fine. While I've never had to add that much fuel between 2000-3000rpm (which is before full boost is reached), if it works for you, it's all good. Next time you're one the dyno, you might want to play around with your ignition mapping if you're in the hunt for more power. For starters, select the entire on-boost cells above 4000rpm (in your timing table) with your mouse and hit the increase key (>) twice and re-dyno. This will increase timing in 0.3 deg increments. Keep doing it until you see knock sensor activity. This will result in power loss on the dyno run since the ECU will pull back timing. If you want to get deeper into it, you can move up the rpm band in 500rpm increments (or at each rpm breakpoint) and find the max allowable ignition advance. Once optimized at all engine speeds, this will result in the most power output. Once complete, it's always a good idea to do a few full sweep on the dyno, back to back with no more than 10 seconds of cooldown to make sure it stands up well to the heatsoak you may see on the street in bad conditions. You'll find that these cars respond well to timing tweaks moreso than fuel mapping. The "allowable" window for fueling is pretty big and easy to get into. Timing, on the other hand, requires a good deal of tuning finesse to extract max power. But then again, at 310whp, you're certainly not hurting

Cheers,
shiv