Just a little update here guys. I had a leaking head gasket. It was leaking oil from the #4 cylinder (drivers side) by the exhaust mani.

Mods on the car are:

AMS 2.0L shortblock
Cosworth head
JUN 264 cams
Fidanza cam gears
780cc INJ
AEM EMS tuned by FactorX
Cusco twin disc
Full JIC exhaust w/test pipe
Stock turbo, Stock FMIC

I will not be putting the Cossie head back on at this time. It needs a rebuild and cash is tight. I do have the stock head that was rebuilt years ago. It has a mild hand port job, BC springs and Ti retainers, fresh valve guides, seals and Ferrea valves w/5 angle job and most important....it has been milled.

Before the head gasket let go and my leaky APS BOV I ran a 12.8 @106 with a 1.6 60ft.



Note the ARP moly lube still on the studs after 15k miles.



AMS 2.0 shortblock, Fidanza gears, Power Enterprise timing belt



Another view....



Old parts on bottom. Rebuilt head on top, evo9 turbo upgrade on top shelf!



All work performed by me (with the exeption of the shortblock build) I do play with my own tuning but nothing beat a pro tune. Right now the tune is about 50/50 mine/FactorX. Mike would have given me a good street tune but my AEM UEGO sensor took a dump as soon as we hit the road last week. After the repairs and upgrade to the 9 turbo I will probably tune it myself and then have the final tune done by FactorX. Once again...cash is tight. Luckily I am only spending $300 on gaskets and the install kit for the turbo from Forced Performance.

 

Why does the head need a rebuild?

And have you thought of using that copper gasket spray on the head gasket?

 

The arp moly lube only goes on the part of the stud that threads into the block...

 

I bought the head used. It came off AMS' shop car (the head before they designed their own cnc'd head) The head I got I am pretty sure it wasnt milled and definately not hot tanked. There is build up on the valves from crap gas and daily driving.

I put 70 miles a day on the car if I dont car pool. It has seen some passes down the track. I have a fresh head so why not. Wont cost much to rebuild this one and have a great spare on hand. I also have a spare block, BR spec Je pistons, Carillo rods. I like spares!

I know that Cossie head is good for 1000whp. Its proven. I run 300whp. I doubt that stock head with the stock turbo and FMIC vs the Cossie head will make a difference. I will find out though. It wont be a straight comparison though as I am putting the evo9 turbo on and an ebay O2 housing.

 

Ii pulled out the copper orings on the deck and had to remove the studs. It was just on my fingers from threading them back in....now that I think about it..maybe I did put it on there when I built it. I dont remember...

 

moly lube goes on the threads for the nuts. I have always put thread locker on the threads that go into the block.

 

I rechecked the torque bout 3 months ago. Still spot on around 72-76 ft-lbs if I remember. That was when I noticed the leak. Probably happened over the summer here though. Last year was really tough on my family and I and the poor evo is our only transpo. 12 sec DD with two child seats in the rear LOL.

Anyone have any ideas why head gasket started leaking? Never overheated.

 

I beleive if you have a Cosworth head and a stock framed turbo that it will actually hurt performance. Ported heads should be only used when really get into the modding and around the 475+ Hp.

The bigger ports slow spool down.

 

yeah I wouldnt be surprised at all to see gains going back to the stock head. I hate to be the one to rain on your parade but 106mph is a basic bolt on evo. IMO with a AMS short block and any head work you should have a better performing setup. I know you said you like spares but if I was in your shoes I would sell that cossie head and put a proper turbo on your car thats going to make some power. At least a BBK full or something.

 

Believe me, I have been wondering/thinking the same thing.

Money is an issue now. When I built the motor I had a well paying job.

 

If you don't plan on making huge power, I'd sell the head to help your current financials. However, if you are planning on making huge numbers definately keep it as it is already a sunk cost.

Where did the HG fail?

 

100 % opposite of what you are supposed to do. It only gets applied to the upper portion and on the underside of the nuts/washers. yo DO NOT want it on the bottom of the stud. i have seen people do both sides with no ill effects but you are not supposed to

 

Interesting... I see alot of oil leaks between the head and the block. I had the same thing happen to my engine. No mixing of oil and coolant no real issues other than it blowing oil onto the intercooler pipe. I just had the Roughness average of the block and head checked, and also flatness. Both are in perfect shape and when it was assembled a brand new OEM headgasket was used with brand new ARP. I may start a thread about just this to see what peoples opinions are.

 

my bet is stock head will improve performance as well.
hows the idle on those jun 264 cams? dont see many using them.

 

Mike (factorX) has it set well. They are smooth but idle is around 1050rpm. I run AEM EMS so that helps as well. AEM shows 0 to -1 idle learned value.

One thing about this setup is the power curve. I know my drag times arent high but I built the car for auto-x and street driving. It is a great all-around power.

Youre right about no one rocking them. I just sorta jumped into this setup rather than doing a stage upgrade. Just wanted something different I guess.

I really want to remain stock frame turbo but somehting along the lines of BBK Full or FP red.

I cant part with the cossie head. Its already paid for. rebuild and clean will only run 300 plus new springs. Not bad considering what it is.


Anyone have any idea how the JUN 264 will work with the BC springs and retainers?