David, thanks for the reply. There is no need to apologize for anything. I'm not worried about cost of the bolts, as I know they will get used in the future. I understand what you're saying about having (2) 1/2 inch flanges, as I would just need a 1 inch bolt. I ordered some allen bolts, that I believe will work and if they don't, I'll shim it with some washers.

Thanks again for the reply.

 

I agree 100%. Anytime I've posted ANYTHING about BR products, David always posts in response to it.

I had no idea what the kit comes with, as I bought it used. When I called Jarrod, I asked if this needs to be run with a BR downpipe. I was ready to buy one if he said yes, but he said "I don't know." so I figured I'd make the one I had work. Now, after what DB posted, I wish I would have just bought one.

I can't be more happy with the kit so far, both with construction and condition. Props for Buschur Racing, and the previous owner for it being the way it is. It's in great condition, and I can't wait to get this Bish back on the road.

 

Heres where it pays to be creative. Grind that lip down on that DP and its nice to have a bucket of bolts around! I had the older kit with the block adaptor and you problem is that your not using the BR DP

 

I was thinking I could just heat it up, and bend them out a bit. I'd just have to make sure that it doesn't get hot enough where I bend the flange. David had it right when he said it, that flange is about paper thin. However, with the new bolts I ordered, I shouldn't have to do either.

Thanks for the good idea though.

 

I can only wonder, with how thin the flange material is on the Cobb down pipe, if grinding or bending the lip flat would ruin the structural integrity of the flange and allow it to bend and then leak? Just food for thought. I'm pretty sure thats the main reason that DB uses the super thick flange that he does, almost no chance to leak when put together correctly.

Josh

 

i agree, i wouldnt touch the lip on the flange. its needed for strength. i would also use the biggest flat washer you can squeeze in there along with a split ring lock washer under the bolt head.

 

We did not produce the kit you linked to use the T3 housing you have. The link you posted, that turbo kit uses only the Forced Performance DSM style housing, which is an Vband outlet.

I'm not sure what kit you have but I see it uses a T3, 4 bolt style 02 housing. That kit, we did produce using a thick adapter between the exhaust manifold and the turbine housing. A very very limited amount of those kits were built, that's if it's even what you have now.

 

Excellent input and advice. This is why I posted, because I didn't want to compromise anything with me being frustrated and just wanting to make it work. The bolts I have on order, that should be here tomorrow, will bypass me needing to modify anything.

The kit that I have has the massive adapter block between the exh. mani and hotside of the turbo. Here is a pic of the setup.

 

Ah yes, OK, then you have one of very-very few kits built like that. When we wanted to step the power up on the kits more we used that adapter so a full T3 turbine housing could be used on the kit. That's why the 02 housing looks so short compared to the cast kit with the FP housing which is the standard now.

For reference that kit used the PTE DSM housing originally and making power with that POS housing was nearly impossible.

 

Nice, thanks for the info. I stopped at one last place to check for bolts (True Value) on my way home and found the PERFECT ones. 3/4" 1/2-20 fine thread bolts with a lock washer. They went in like butter, and I started her up. This is my first BB turbo, and I was AMAZED. You could hear it tumble through the exhaust, and when I shut off the car after idling for a few min, I could hear the turbo still spinning for about 45 seconds. I wanted to take it around the block, but I'll wait for daylight.

Thanks to everyone that posted. I have dyno time tomorrow afternoon at CBRD, as Chad is going to retune it with the new kit and a set of 880's. I'll keep everyone posted as to how it turns out. Thanks again guys!

 

410whp 310 wtq at 26 psi.. had some pretty bad creep, but other than that... still made some decent peak power.

cb

 

That kit should not boost creep, it's got a Tial gate on it. Check the boost controller and you may need to actually turn the boost up. 26 psi on a 35r on 93 octane is low boost, turn it up.

 

Thanks Chad and David. Chad was trying to keep it moddest, as I have no internal mods yet. I told him I wanted a safe tune, as I don't even have headstuds.

I'm loving the kit by the way. This is my first setup with a WG dump, and WOW! That thing will really scream.

 

Hallman pro rx, working fine anything under 26psi peak would creep... Well headstuds and 28 psi will fix it lol

 

Headstuds are already on order.