im remooving my pan to see wsp...

 

what you guys used to seperate the pan from the block??? That rtv is super tought...

 

That's a good idea. I would suggest not driving it AT ALL.

Three weeks ago, I had almost the same sound. I drove it around the next day, staying out of boost completely, and the engine threw a rod out of the side of the block. Be careful!

-Acree

 

problem founded!

Removed the oil pan and noticed that one of the cylinder mounting point is having 1/8 inch play torwards front and back of the car. It also have some black residue on it. Not sure, but i bilieve its cil #1 or #4, its closest to the drivers side.

Is it #1 or #4?

All the other cylinders appears to be fine and only have just a tiny bit of motion side to side. Seems normal and have no residue.

Car has not been driven since i noticed this ticking issue. Will I need to replace my crank or just a ring? Is it possible to do it wihout remooving head?

Oh and the reason why this possibly hapened... I bought the car with no turbo in it so that means no oil lines in there too... dealer had it running and that was the outcome...

 

how do i seperate the connecting rod from the shaft? I have two bolts out but i can mange to take the bottom piece out...

 

Take a hammer and LIGHTLY hit the bottom piece side to side. Just enough to "break" it.

-Acree

 

got it out... bearing is cooked... do you think replacing it, single bearing would do a trick? My crankshaft is automaticly done for too? Can i replace a bearing with a pan down? hope i dont need a new shaft

 

I've heard of people getting away with having the crank cut replacing the bearings and rods. A good machine shop should be able to tell you what your options are.

 

man sounds like your having a fun time bro! hey take some pics man I/we would like to see your work! So what, you bought the whole car like that? How much did you pay for her?

 

10k for 06 mr with 50k miles, was missing seats bumper turbo t case and now this is hapening...

 

you see my knock started like 2 days ago and was never driven, so I was wondering if I can get away without touching my crankshaft at all, just replace the bearing. Any input on this would be really apreciated.

 

i had a very similar thing happen to me. #4 was knocking so i took it apart to build....the rod and crank have no scratches or scoring on it at all but the bearing was in the bottom of the oil pan shredded. just build it up bro..

oh machine shop will let you know about fixing it.

if you are on a budget id machine crank, geta a set or rods and pistons, make sure you plastiguage the machined part for proper clearance. and BAM po-mans built evo block...

 

what you guys think about the stroker kit that sells on ebay? It goes for $1400 and it includes:

Wiseco 85.5mm (.020 oversize) stroker pistons
Eagle ESP H-beam connecting rods
EAGLE 100mm 4340 forged steel STROKER crank
ACL Race Series main, rod, and thrust bearings

tought ill ask, because I can afford AMS 2.3 right now...

What else I might have to do when installing stroker? Head studs? Headgasket? How much machine shops usually charges to have block resurfaced and bored?

Im assuming I will need bigger injectors and pump after the stroker is in, right? How would a stroker be like with a stock evo 9 turbo?

I know most of this stuff is covered, but its a fustrating turnout for me, so im just hoping some help on it

 

Honestly, I would steer clear from anything Eagle. I was in the 350z scene for 5 years and heard nothing but horror stories.

And a stroker kit from ebay... really? I suggest getting in contact with some of the vendors here on the board. From what I have seen, MAPerfomance, and SlowBoyRacing have some pretty freakin cheap parts for sale. If you're really that strapped for cash, I would search there first.

-Acree

 

so, now I have 4 choices:

1. get a new 2.0 crankshaft, rods, and rod bearings. That would be it for a basic rebuild right? Now im leaning torwards Manley crank and rods with Clevite bearing set, everyhing from AMS, they are 15mins from me That would run about $1000 for me.

2. buy $2300 stroker kit. Will I need bigger injectors and pump for that? How would my car behave with a stock 9 turbo?

3. get new bearings, install them and see what happens... I know my bearing was spun and marks can be seen on a connecting rod, how long would it last??

4. find a OEM used crank and a OEM rods. My question on that is.. are they all balanced individualy from the factory or I only need one rod? My other connecting rods looks good except the #4.