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Propane Injection

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Old Sep 15, 2003 | 02:20 PM
  #46  
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Oxygen=Melted internal engine parts

Yes, I know, there is oxygen in the mix already. Not like injecting pure oxygen. Want power from injecting oxygen? That's what Nitrous is for. Seriously.

Hey, if you are real curious about trying out propane we can work you a deal. It's great stuff.
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Old Sep 15, 2003 | 02:31 PM
  #47  
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Oxygen = melted parts because of heat... if the liquid propane will actually drop the cylinder temps .. then the oxygen might be alright. It also does depend on how much you enrich the air mixture with oxygen.
Btw, no offense to you.. but since I do have an HVAC backround I can build my liquid propane injection system a LOT cheaper and more customized than you could ever offer me.
I know how to work with pressurized gasses and I know how to control them to get the right out-put.
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Old Sep 15, 2003 | 02:52 PM
  #48  
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No offense taken...Just make sure you use US DOT Certified parts, Regulator and Fuel Shut off-Solenoid, as we do in our kit and you will be fine.
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Old Sep 15, 2003 | 03:49 PM
  #49  
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Yea, first things first I am going to use a regular propane tank.. like a 10lb or 20lb.. if it works i'll get all of the DOT cert. shiz.

Where can I get this DOT cert. solenoid valve...

I plan on running a line from the tank... leaving the tank valve always open.. Run a 1/4" insulated copper line in through the cabin to a T flare fitting.. having that go to a pressure gauge which I'll have up on the dash or something.. then on the other side of the T fitting I'll have the line go to an in-reach shut off valve.. from there it will go under the hood to the solenoid valve.. which I'll have a switch for on my dash or something.. so when I want the juice.. hit the switch on and then off.. after the solenoid valve is where i am going to have my metering device though which will run in the carb and make sure i get a nicely atomized spray of liquid propane in the vacuum venturi of the carb.

I am going to use a heating element to keep the tank pressure up.

I am going to run the tank pressure around a 80-100PSI I think... but that may change depending on other things.
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Old Sep 15, 2003 | 04:03 PM
  #50  
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Originally posted by |PuNiSh3R|
Yea, first things first I am going to use a regular propane tank.. like a 10lb or 20lb.. if it works i'll get all of the DOT cert. shiz.

Where can I get this DOT cert. solenoid valve...

I plan on running a line from the tank... leaving the tank valve always open.. Run a 1/4" insulated copper line in through the cabin to a T flare fitting.. having that go to a pressure gauge which I'll have up on the dash or something.. then on the other side of the T fitting I'll have the line go to an in-reach shut off valve.. from there it will go under the hood to the solenoid valve.. which I'll have a switch for on my dash or something.. so when I want the juice.. hit the switch on and then off.. after the solenoid valve is where i am going to have my metering device though which will run in the carb and make sure i get a nicely atomized spray of liquid propane in the vacuum venturi of the carb.

I am going to use a heating element to keep the tank pressure up.

I am going to run the tank pressure around a 80-100PSI I think... but that may change depending on other things.
Just a few things to ponder...Take them for what they are:

#1 Propane is a fuel. Unlike Nitrous.....Running lines Inside the vehicle therefore is a big no no.

#2 Propane is a fuel, having a Pressureized line full of propane at all times is a no no. Especially with that line inside the cabin. If you get into an accident and that line is ruptured, yes it can happen, the tank will completly empty into the vehicle. VERY hazardous.

#3 Heating the propane tank is totally 100% un necassary as you will see tank pressure WELL over 80psi even at 60 degree ambient temp unless the tank is starting to run low. We run our systems at 80psi. It takes ambient temps of 40F or lower to drop tank pressure below 80psi. Heating a propane tank is also dangerous. The overflow valve will open and dump propane. Make sure you have a purge line for this valve.

#4 Hard copper line may be great in the HVAC you are used to (buildings) but I would NOT use it in a vehicle. Use either SS braid -4AN or high pressure Rubber Fuel hose.

Just some tips...not bashing your ideas. We have been designing, testing and selling for years and have some experience in this system
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Old Sep 15, 2003 | 04:37 PM
  #51  
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I'll stick with copper.. I will be insulating the tank since it will be in my trunk.. I will use a heating element.. of course mainly for winter and when the tank is getting low..


Um.. I suppose you are right about running the lines through the cabin... Although I have had a few explosive encounters with propane... so I really doubt I'll get into an accident larger enough to rupture the line that I would have running through the cabin.. specially since I could run it through the center of the cabin.. Would have to be one MAJOR accident then.. and I'd wanna be dead from that anyway
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Old Sep 18, 2003 | 05:13 PM
  #52  
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Imp..

What holds the f/a ratio? f=gasoline+propane and I am assuming that my ecu will meter the gasoline injecton.

I would really like to run a f(gasoline only)/a around 12 or higher. How can I do this with your system if I put it on my Evo8

What is stoich for propane?
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Old Sep 18, 2003 | 06:31 PM
  #53  
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stoich for propane is 15. You will need to pull fuel when shooting propane or you will just run rich.
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Old Sep 19, 2003 | 04:41 PM
  #54  
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ty imp my thoughts exactly. The problem as I see it is how to regulate the f/a with this system. With a water injection system you can meter the H2O flow by regulating the pump and selecting appropriate jets. With a propane system it seems you have constant pressure so the actual amount of Propane flowing into the manifold will vary with changes in the manifold pressure which acts against it. If the system simply opens a valve at a given manifold pressure what happens to the mix ratios as the system spools up and down? It really sounds a lot like an application for drag racing much like NO2 but without the dangers to the engine.
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Old Sep 19, 2003 | 04:44 PM
  #55  
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There are two controls to control flow. One is the regulator pressure the other is a needle valve.
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Old Sep 19, 2003 | 05:06 PM
  #56  
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What controls the needle valve? Could one use a solenoid driven injector? If so it looks to be a fairly straight forward task to develop a piggyback system for driving a secondary set of injectors for the propane. I see your point that one would need to re-map the gasoline flow as it is being replaced by the propane.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 03:01 PM
  #57  
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From: salt lake city
Originally Posted by Link286XT
nitrous is an oxidizer, it just adds more air to the engine
automotive nitrous is mixed with some chemical (i dont know which) that prevents people from sniffing it


my $.02

Link
Sulfer dioxide I think (?)

Last edited by DJ Brett B; Dec 26, 2006 at 03:12 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 03:49 PM
  #58  
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From: Mass
Originally Posted by DJ Brett B
Sulfer dioxide I think (?)
Dude, This has got to be the oldest thread bumped I have ever seen...congrats.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 04:02 PM
  #59  
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hold up man. i think i can find a thread from 2001.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 05:48 PM
  #60  
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From: Kingdom of Saudi Arabia
Originally Posted by Link286XT
nitrous is an oxidizer, it just adds more air to the engine
automotive nitrous is mixed with some chemical (i dont know which) that prevents people from sniffing it


my $.02

Link
its laced with minute amounts of sulphur dioxide to prevent the abuse of the "laughing gas"
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