Im building a LR 2.4, and long story short, have a cut crank that i wont be using, and need to get a replacement. I was recommended the eagle, and manley cranks.

I thought id read something about people having problems with the eagle cranks, but wasnt sure.

On the manley cranks, is it worth the $$ difference to step up to the billet "
turbo tuff" crank, or would the forged "race series" suffice.
The weight difference is 3.5 pounds.

http://www.manleyperformance.com/sc/...3_cranks.shtml

So, opinions, experience, etc?

Thanks

 

why not just got back to another 100mm crank and save cash??? there are 2 people selling 100mm cranks right now

 

Link? I need them anyway whether we use a stocker or something else in Nick's motor.

aaron

 

Nick, I'm running a stock crank. They seem to be just fine holding the power, there are a number of people running 800+hp on them. The only downside that I have heard of, are oiling issues but for what we are doing we won't have those problems. Looks like above 8500 the stock cranks start to starve the bearings from oil. A good person that has done a lot of testing with this is Marco (magnus) and Kevin kiggly.

If you really decide to upgrade I would look at the Billet Magnus Crank. I prefer the Magnus over the Manley but the Manley is really nice too.

I'm sure Aaron will lead you in the right direction as he did for me. Aaron knows his shiz

Mikey

 

why dont i just give you there names and you can pm them LOL

pure_evo
Broham

there is one more im looking for him now

 

cancel that last person hommie its a stock 2.0 crank so those two have great condition 100mm cranks just begging to be used in nicks motor

 

Well aaron said it might be something to look into, so i was just looking into it. trying to get some info, etc.

 

quit spending money you dont have you need to keep that in your pocket for any actual unforseen issues. NICK me and mikey will be running stock 100mm crank and not worried about anything so just get the kiggly hla as sugguested in mikeys thread aem oil pressure guage and call it

 

spoke to aaron and told him i can sell the crank if another buyer flakes tomorrow. Until then i referred him to a good seller selling 1.

Nick,

No point in paying 1500 for a billet crank. It's necessary when you push more than 1000 hp, but that is not happening on your setup. It's like running the manley 300m alloy rod. no need unless you're at 1300 hp or so. These cranks can go 1000hp and have been balanced by mitsu from factory. It's oiling, and improper balancing that can cause issues, but balancing wont be a problem since you're in good hands.

-bro

 

now he finally comments im pushing his products to newbie and folks asking and gets no love from broham im stop doing that lol

 

You guys always seem to crack me up.

Nick let me know what you decide to do.

Mikey

 

who is pushing what? so confused


aaron

 

A machine shop should be able to clean out an OEM crank, and make adjustments to the oiling holes to improve things at high rpms. It doesn't cost that much either.

 

leave it to aaron to swin though BS till he finds something nasty. Nope when friends are selling products and i know they are i try to help them out if i find interested parties looking for the same item. Hows that

 

rock is accusing me of badmouthing billet cranks and trying to "crank flip"

LOL! Im Too indecisive on building my own "cheap 2.4" at home for practice. since prices are low. but then again it may not be worth it. Either way, the oem crank is fine. you won't find me paying 1400 for a crank. sorry. whoever spends 1500 on a crank, more power to u