I knew an engine builder for Rousch Racing, the oils they used were not off the shelf Havoline (or whatever they are using now), and along with not having any detergents in them, it was custom blended. And most true race oils wont have detergents since they are only gonna be in the engine for a few hundred miles. The Walmart versions you find will have detergents in them.
Its just like Apagan stated earlier, you the consumer doesnt get the good stuff. That fancy Joe Gibbs oil is NOT what JOE Gibbs team runs in his engines.

 

Tommi

you know its easy for us to blame multiple probable causes when in fact its hard to say, but by the way you are tlking sounds like the issue really was the oil.

you see it is very important to have the right oil for your personnal application,,,, let me give an example i have many evom members running 2.3 L on big turbos asking me what oil to use, i could answer SSO 0W30 which is my most expensive oil but in reality i barely sell any SSO 0W30 for the fact that most cars dont need that, i first start asking what power, how you drive it, what weather, what fuel you use al these questions help me tailor the oil to his application, my educated decicion and experience helps you the customer with a more reliable and healthy engine.

in the benz case it could that not a true synthetic was being used, also to thick of a viscocity of oil and the oil was not getting through the critical parts of the engine, we all know that bearing and other components have very small oil passages.

 

sparky you are correct the op is talking about an oil that i would not use in any turbocharged vehicle even to make matters worst an evo runs pretty warm, we crank the boost up to 26psi on the stock snail and that creates lots of heat, 4g63 engine is an iron block and produces much heat and retains the heat more than the 4b11 aluminum block.

FYI, for the people on this thread you can do a quick test on non synthetic oils and on synthetic oil, if you want to find out how one oil fights the heat.

grab 2 pots or metal containers and put 2 or 3 caps or oil, one container will have you conventional non synthetic known as petrolium based oil and the other container will have a good quality 100% synthetic ,, apply heat to the containers and watch the petrolium based oil fumes rise and the oil burn off much faster than the synthetic 100%


its a pay me now or pay me latter game,,, if you know what i mean

 

Idk about the rotella t6 but I would recommend AMSoil 10w-30 depending on
the temperature your area has

 

I was just doing some searching on the rotella - seems some of the ms3/ms6 guys run it with good luck

 

This reminds me of a comparative test that my brother used to run on motor oils. Same test as yours, apagan, actually. Set two pans on the stove side by side and coat the bottom of one pan with oil X, and the other with oil Y. Turn the burners to the same heat setting and watch which one starts smoking sooner. This is primitive but effective. It will give you a pretty good idea of how each particular oil in question will react to heat on the turbo bearings.

Another of his tests was to coat the bottom of two cookie pans with the two different oils. Then set the pans almost to vertical up against the wall. Go to bed and when you wake up the next morning see which oil has slid down the pan and which one has stayed up vertically and still coats the pan surface. This test will give you an idea of which oil will remain on your cylinder walls until you start your motor the following morning.

 

Isn't mobil one aabout equal to mastercraft or w/e walmart carries. I was told few years ago that mobil one switched there formula and went from one of the best to worst.

 

I've been busy trying to research different oils online as well. I recently ran across this thread on an oil forum:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...56#Post1982456

There's a ton of info on that forum in regards to oil and other fluids!

 

QQ - Why would one want to change the recommended viscosity (e.g. some of the folks on bob's forum were suggesting a 50wt oil - 5w50 ) ?

 

dont diesel engines get much hotter than ours? i looked at a coupe uoas from shell rotella, actually looked pretty good

 

I cannot speak for the guys over on Bob's Forum however, one possible reason might be that the thicker 5W-50 oil does keep engine oil temps lower, which might be useful in hotter climates, or extended highspeed driving in extremely hot weather.

I live here in the tropics and there are no speed limits on the roads. Some of the local Evo guys would run Mobil1 5W-50 in the hotter summer months as according to them there was a notable difference in engine oil temps between using the 5W-50 as opposed to a lighter oil such as 10W-30, or, 0W-40 which we normally run in the cooler, winter months.

I tried it in my Evo for a summer, but I switched back to 0W-40 year-round, because in my car the 5W-50 caused more lifter noise.

 

I can relate to this.

 

Moving beyond the fact that you have a dog in the race - Rotella T6 has anti-scuff agents that are SPECIFICALLY made to extend the life of turbo bearings. In diesels. Where 30psi of boost ALL DAY LONG is pretty normal. Add to that - its made with Group IV base stock, just like Amsoil.

I personally ran nothing but Rotella oils in my Syclone and turbocharged Cobra for years. If you think a 4g63 gets hot - I encourage you to crawl into the engine bay of a GM 4.3 turbo with a clutch fan. A 4G63 is a refrigerator in comparison.

That being said - The anti-scuff agents in Rotella oils supposedly will clog your catalytic converter eventually and neither of my other turbo vehicles ever broke 5500rpm.

I highly recommend reading up and seeing the wear reports from all the different oils on bobistheoilguy.com as linked by one of the above posters, then you can make an educated decision about which one would be best for your needs.

 

ive been using rotella with the new engine. i dont have any cool facts but i have not heard anything bad about rotella.

 

I dont want to get in oil debate with anybody. But I am with this guy. Truck oil has different regulations than auto oil. It is allowed to have more zinc in it which is the slipperiest/best additive you can place in oil. I have been using rottella T and motorcraft diesel oil. I did an oil change once from mobil1 to the motorcraft and instantly noticed how much quieter the valve train was. I was shocked.

Changing oil often can be more important than quality of oil if quality oil is left in too long. From what I have seen 3000 miles is too long in turbo car. I change at 2000 or less. My 600whp car gets changed every 750 or so. I prefer to use decent oils and change often.

Synthetic oils do hold up better under heat. and those tests on your stove top are neat. but your oils should never get that hot in your engine. so the test is mute but cute.